6. Textile as Scaffold#

Research#

On Tuesday we were introduced with methodologies on applying chemicals on textiles with layers for various functions. Also workshop on using the CNC milling machine and the late induction on laser cutting machine.

I have previously created bio composites within the bio plastic week, by submerging different types of textiles: silk, mesh, lace…etc. into bio resin, bio silicon and foams.

For the medium of milling moulds, I came up with development continued from my old project on imitating crocodile and alligator leather textiles, however with bio materials/ recycled polyester or textile blends. I used cinema 4d for 3d modelling to achieve hyper realistic and detailed textures, but the polygons were way too large to be processed and extruded from a 2d plane to a 3d box milling shape, also there was not enough tuition on using this particular software, so I have not yet figured out how to produce this photogenic simulated animal skin texture. To use an actual piece of animal leather as a casting mild could be an option, although it falls out of our assignment criteria. Demo: https://sketchfab.com/models/6edb68b104fe4273b218d1a2c4b25898 -

Demo: https://sketchfab.com/models/041c899edefe4013aacd574af17ef957 -

At the same time, since I have been researching on my ideas for the modular fashion assignment. From getting inspiration from architect Zaha Hadid’s design sketches, I try to transform manifesting curves into 2.5 or 3d shapes. It seems to me that the rhythms within the groups of curves in her sketches represent certain movements, that are constantly evolving. To express this abstraction, I think it would be a nice idea to have separate modulars laser cut in an overall wavey pattern, could be either all in identical shapes or slight different in terms of size measurements, yet perfectly fit into a square piece of flat material to be cut out from. In my case, an A1 sheet of cardboard. After the modulars been cut, various methods of constructing the moulds are designed, cardboards units are either aligned horizontally or vertically paired with the opposite mould pressing down to form my composites, or arranged in a circular manner, or other patterns. Extra supporting units yet need to be designed ( for example combs, or scaffold shapes) as I am currently using tapes and rubber bands to secure the shapes of the mould. -

Compressed cotton fibers with silk tulle/synthetic organza, glued with PVC

Notes for laser cut machine induction:#

OPEN–IMPORT

Blue dots (On top left corner of your design)- Origin (where it begins)

Red dots - Set knif origin

*If not want certain section to be cut, untick “output”

Modes:

-Cut

-Engrave (darker cutted)

-Grdient engrave (doesn’t work well)

-Hole (good gor weaving template)

*Corner power usually keep at 20, if more than 20. it might burn the surrounding egdes.

*Speed: 100 (usually as high as you can)

*Power: doesn’t need that much power

*Use 2 hands to open/close the door for laser cut machine

*Press button bit by bit, otherwise long-hold would make it clash into the wall.

*DEL ALL- Erase all previous datas/ files

*If not saved names for file, automatic name as “laser”

*Press “File” - ENTER-

*If laser head stucks while presse button, press “ESCAPE” and do it again.

*Make fabric as flat as possible (to be cut)

*Align. Better position the fabric piece, better in the middle, not touching the walls.

*Unscrew anti- clockwise - Loosen - Woodblock disrupt airflow, still moveable - Press ANCHOR - Press ENTER

*Close door

Turn on fume suction machine (fan)

Start by START, pause by START again

*Beep sound means finished cutting

*Wait for 30 seconds or more, for fume to be gone

After choosing power/ speed setting sample, change main colour (for design) to that group colour.

Cut certain section to avoid fabric moving within sutting process

*Press TEST, laser head to show the region it’s cutting

*For emergency, turn off suction machine, press STOP, two hands open door, then spray water.

*Turn off machine when finish.

*NO VINYL, NO PVC.

Crystallisation#

For the crystallisation techniques, I tried submerging my natural dyed cotton fabrics, synthetic meshes and silk thread into coloured alon solutions. Some of them came out nicely, yet we found that if the solution liquid is way too saturated, the crystal shapes might not come out ideally. For a clearer crystal colour and bigger sizes, it works with having slightly less saturated liquid for longer submerging time period. It also depends on the elements of dye that is affecting the reaction, for example the light green food dye in allon solution did not form any crystals. I have also tried lying the fabric down horizontally in a large petri dish filled with solution, in order to let the crystal form at the bottom also on the fabric, however it did not turn out aesthetically pleasing as i wish, the crystals are not clear enough and way too dense. -