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3. Circular fashion

This week we learned about modular fashion and zero waste systems. The assignment was to design a modular shape that can be laser cut in a non-woven cloth and attached together by tabs. This type of module could be used to enable a more efficient use of textiles by utilizing the offcuts from industrial manufacturing. For my module I first prototyped the shape with paper and then designed in inkscape. The tessellating modules were then cut out on the laser cutter in wool/rayon felt and put together. I decided to incorporate some fabric manipulation techniques to create a second overlay piece in sheer silk organza to go over the modules to give them a 3D shape. I assembled the modules into a cape-like configuration but they can be rearranged in many different ways.

Research and Inspiration

One of my favorite projects on open source and zero-waste fashion is the Open Source Fashion Cookbook by ADIFF. In this book they share open source patterns that anyone can use. Many of the garments are modular designs that can be made from scraps or upcycled materials. I really like the idea of making new garments from things that have already been made.

For this project I also drew inspiration from a previous project I did called ‘Head in the Clouds Hoodie’. This project was made with an upcycled cotton button-up shirt overdyed with indigo. I added an overlay in silk organza to give it a 3D effect. This is the part I would like to recreate this week.

I based my module design on a tessellation that uses three colors.

Paper Prototype

I started the process by making a paper prototype before moving to fabric.

For this prototype I also wanted to test the 3D fabric manipulation overlay. I slashed and spread the paper pattern to expand and add volume to the shape.

The expanded shape was cut in a silk organza overlay and fit back over the top of the smaller base shape to create a puff. Then I realized I wanted to slash the shape in another orientation to better hold down the silk organza under the tabs.

Design in Inkscape

Software:
  * Inkscape version 1.0beta2
  * macOS Big Sur 11.5.1

Designing the tessellating base module.

Designing the overlay for the module.

Laser Cutting

Software, equipment, and settings
 * RDWorks 8.0
 * Windows 10
 * "Mongo" the Hurricane Charley Category 4 80W CO2 Laser 1000mmx600mm
 * Felt - Rayon 65%/Wool 35% blend
   - speed: 30mm/s
   - power: 30%
   - single pass vector cut
 * Organza - Silk 100%
   - speed: 30mm/s
   - power: 20%
   - single pass vector cut

To prepare the file for laser cutting I uploaded to svgnest.com to rearrange the modules to optimize fabric use. Converted to .dxf and imported to RDWorks for laser cutting. Hello "Mongo" the laser. This is my favorite laser to use at NovaLabs. The laser is activated by my NovaPass fob that I get through my membership at the lab. This is how they track who has been signed off to use the equipment. I cut the base modules from a wool/rayon felt blend and the overlay for the modules in silk organza.

Assembly of Modules

Last update: 2021-10-20