Design Process¶
Redefining My Project¶
The Frankenstein exercise¶
I didn't expect the impact of this exercise : in fact, it made me realise that this red party dress, the one that Faustine had clearly in mind, wasn't mine.
When I hardly finish the Frankenstein, one thing was clear: I had to make a crucial choice between the Party Dress imagined by Faustine, and the one I had in my head (maybe more in my heart !) that tried to make its place.
Hemp as my raw Material¶
After all this reflexion and the researches on sustainable fabrics, Hemp was clearly the better fabric, and the one that attracts me for several years.
See below the benefits of hemp fabric, related by HempyPeople :
I feel so happy about this choice, this comes as an evidence !
The only little regret I have is that I hoped that I could find french manufactured hemp, but after a few researches, this won't be possible. I contacted Lin et chanvre bio the french major french association who leads experiments on hemp and try to rebuild a textile fiber sector, but they're actually not able to produce big quantities.
In the end it allowed me to meet a little company called Naturellement Chanvre , not very far from where I live, who is barely the only one to sell this fabric by the meter. I sent them a message to explain about my project and asked them if I could visit them to meet them and see their fabrics. I spent a really nice moment : their fabrics are wonderful, and we talked about hemp during hours !!
I bought them samples of each fabric I want to experiment
New Moodboard¶
This choices have a huge impact on the final design of my dress.
I felt the need to do a new moodboard to redefine my project...
Digital Couture¶
Now that I have progressed on the design, I can start to work on CLO 3D, beginning by the basics.
So happy to close the reflection and immaterial step, let my brain cool down, and enter a more technical one !
Learning on Clo 3D¶
- Take Measures
I took the method I found here, in the Pattern Making section of the Tutorials page, on the Fabricademy's website.
This allowed me to have the right english terms for the body measurement 👍
| Faustine Measures | ||
|---|---|---|
| Ladies Chart | Standard 38 | Faustine |
| Bust | 82 | 79 |
| Waist | 60 | 62 |
| Hips | 86 | 88 |
| Back Width | 33 | 36 |
| Chest Width | 31 | 29 |
| Shoulder | 11 | 11 |
| Neck | 34 | 34 |
| Shoulder to Bust | 24.5 | 23 |
| Bust Separation | 18 | 16 |
| Biceps | 32 | 22.5 |
| Wrist | 15 | 14.5 |
| Fist | 23 | 19 |
| Shoulder to Waist (back) | 40 | 34 |
| Shoulder to Waist (front) | 42 | 36 |
| Armpit Height | 18 | 18 |
| Waist to Knee | 53 | 57 |
| Waist to Hips | 19 | 21 |
| Waist to floor | 102 | 103 |
| Arm Length | 57.5 | 58 |
| Shoulder to Shoulder | - | 36 |
| Bust Height | - | 58 |
-
Make My Avatar
-
Skirt Base Pattern
Building the Shirt on measure
Trying my first Simulation: that was a failure !! Obviously, I forgot to sew the darts 😅 !!
Here we are : Second Simulation, and this time it worked 🥳 !!
- Skirt Base Pattern
Learning on Zero Waste Pattern Making¶
- Try to find a method
Several designers helped me defining a method to understand from where to begin in this process.
Maison Deis, for example, explains how he proceeds and how he uses 3D tools to help appreciating the volumes and difficulties
Dying experiments¶
Dying with Pouzzolane¶
During the biomaterial week, I had the idea to try dyeing with Pouzzolane. Pouzzolane is this red volcanic soil that we found around here, in Auvergne.
It is so red that I told myself it could maybe work... and why not dyeing my dress with this local ressource ?? That would be such fun !
I decided to prepare the fabric with milk soja mordant, and let it in during a whole night.
The result is a slight pink-beige colour :
Finally, I don't think I will use this for my final project, because I'm not sure I wanted this kind of colour. Moreover, experimenting this new material as a dyeing element could be a whole project itself and I feel like I have enough new topics to learn for the moment 😅😅😅...
But for sure, I will come back to it later !!