The Lab¶
The second stage takes place in the lab (at the Basque Biodesign center) where I experiment with the collected raw materials through processes of design and biofabrication. Biofabrication allows me to bring the land and nature into my familiar space. Natural matter is transformed using techniques like molding, dyeing, and material blending to develop the forms and textures of the final sculptural pieces.
Digital design (general)¶
I take all the bodies from the digital collect and start to play with shapes and forms with Rhino to have a general idea of how the "Odd friends" could be. Combining it with pictures and making collage helps the same purpose.
Biofabrication¶
Same as with digital design, in fabrication I start to do a general reseach of what materials I can elaborate with the matter gather at the woods.
Tree Pulp¶
Its is made by fungus that decompose wood by breaking down lignin and cellulose (main structural components of plant cells). => White rot fungi, in particular, digest lignin, leaving behind softened cellulose fibers —> turning wood into a natural pulp.
This biological process mirrors the paper industry, which chemically removes lignin to produce clean pulp => using this pre-decomposed fungal pulp, the papermaking process is shortened, as much of the breakdown work is already done naturally.
Biomass - papiermache
- 1 cup H2o
- 1/2 cup clay
- 2 cups pre-decomposed pulp
- 1 cup plain flour
- 1 cup natural starch-based adhesive
- 10 ml vinager (antibacterial purpose)
- 1 spoon (soup) carbonate calcium
- 1/4 cup sunflower seed oil
Process:
1. Boil the pre-decomposed pulp until the fibers are soft.
2. Rinse with fresh water to remove dark lignin and impurities.
3. Mix the clean pulp with water, oil, vinegar, flour and adhesive
4. Knead the mixture until it reaches a dough-like consistency.
Natural starch-based adhesive
- 2 cup H2o
- 1 cup plain flour
- 1 cup natural sugar
- 1/2 vinager (antibacterial purpose)
Process:
1. Mix 1/2 cup of flour with 1 cup of natural (room temperature) water until smooth.
2. In a pot, heat 1 cup of water until it starts to boil.
3. Add 1 cup of sugar, stir to dissolve, then lower the heat.
4. Slowly pour in the flour mixture, stirring constantly to avoid lumps.
5. Cook on low heat until the mixture thickens into a smooth, sticky paste.
6. Let it cool completely, then add 1/2 cup of vinegar for antibacterial purposes.
7. Stir well and your adhesive is ready to use!
Green Pulp Color Extraction
Materials:
- Fresh or dried green pulp (the more you use, the stronger the color)
- Water
- Large pot
- Heat source
- Strainer or cheesecloth
- (Optional) Mordant (e.g., alum, vinegar, or iron) to fix the dye to fabric
Process:
1. Prepare the green pulp:
Cut or shred the green pulp into small pieces to increase the surface area and help release the color.
2. Boiling:
Place the green pulp in a large pot and cover it with water, maintaining a 1:2 pulp-to-water ratio.
3. Simmer and reduce:
Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 1–2 hours. The water will gradually change color as the pigments are released from the pulp.
4, Cool and macerate:
Let the dye bath cool, ideally allowing it to sit overnight for a deeper color extraction.
5. Strain:
Strain the liquid to remove the pulp and collect your natural dye.
6. (Optional) Color fixation:
If desired, you can add a mordant (such as alum, vinegar, or iron) to the fabric before or after dyeing to help fix the color.
Raw Wool¶
Wet Felting
Materials
- Raw wool (e.g., Latxa wool)
- Warm water
- Natural soap
- Towel or absorbent cloth
- Bamboo mat, bubble wrap, or sushi mat (for rolling)
- Mesh cloth or netting (optional, to keep fibers in place)
- Cold water (for rinsing)
Process
1. Lay out raw wool fibers in thin, overlapping layers, alternating directions (horizontal, vertical, diagonal) for strength.
2. Cover with mesh cloth (optional) to keep the fibers from shifting.
3. Sprinkle warm soapy water over the wool until damp but not soaked.
4. Gently press and rub the wool to start bonding the fibers.
5. Roll the wool inside a bamboo mat or bubble wrap and apply pressure by rolling back and forth.
6. Unroll, flip, and re-roll in different directions to ensure even felting. Add more soap and water if needed.
7. Continue rolling and rubbing until the wool shrinks and becomes dense and firm.
8. Rinse with cold water to remove soap and gently squeeze out excess water.
Eucaliptus BARK¶
Eucalyptus Bark Dye Extraction
Materials
- Dried or fresh eucalyptus bark (the more, the stronger the color)
- Water
- Large pot
- Heat source
- Strainer or cheesecloth
- Optional: Mordant (e.g., alum, vinegar, or iron) to fix the dye to fabric
Process
1. Break or shred the eucalyptus bark into small pieces to increase surface area.
2. Place the bark in a large pot and cover with water — about 1:2 ratio bark to water.
3. Bring to a boil, then lower heat and simmer for 1–2 hours. The water will gradually turn a rich color.
4. Let the dye bath cool, ideally letting it sit overnight to deepen the color extraction.
5. Strain the liquid to remove the bark and collect your natural dye.
6. (Optional) Add a mordant to your fabric before or after dyeing to help fix the color and shift the tone.
FOREST MATERIAL ARCHIVE¶
The Forest Material Archive is a series of experimental materials and processes that capture the colors, textures, and forms of the forest. It acts as a kind of material memory — a way to translate the sensory experience of the landscape into crafted matter. Each sample reflects an attempt to embody the forest's essence, whether through pigments, fibers, clay, or organic compounds. This archive becomes a record of my encounters with the territory — a tactile reflection of otherness shaped through direct interaction with place.
Bioyarns recipe
Materials
- 12 gr alginate
- 40 gr glycerine
- 40 gr sunflower seed oil
- 400 ml H2o
- Calcium chloride solution (as a crosslinking agent => 10 gr per 100 ml H20)
Process:
1. Prepare Alginate Solution:mix until fully dissolved (let it rest for one night)
2. Fill Syringe: pour the alginate solution into a syringe or use a fine nozzle.
3. Create Yarn: slowly squeeze the alginate into a calcium chloride bath. The alginate instantly gels upon contact, forming a soft thread.
4. Stretch and Rinse: gently pull the formed strand out of the bath and rinse in clean water to remove excess calcium.
5. Dry: Hang or lay the yarn flat to air dry.
Bio silicone recipe
Materials:
1 part gelatine
1 part water or dye (eucaliptus in this case)
1 part glycerine
Process:
Mix Gelatine and Water:
In a saucepan, combine the gelatine and water. Stir well to ensure the gelatine is evenly distributed.
Heat the Mixture:
Place the saucepan on low heat. Stir continuously to prevent burning. As it heats up, the gelatine will dissolve into the water, forming a liquid gel.
Add Glycerine:
Once the gelatine is fully dissolved, add the glycerine. Continue stirring to mix all ingredients thoroughly.
Simmer:
Keep heating the mixture for a few more minutes, ensuring everything dissolves completely and the texture thickens to a silicone-like consistency.
Cool Down:
Let the mixture cool to room temperature. It should solidify slightly but remain flexible.
Agar plastic
Materials
- 4 g agar
- 100 ml H2o
- 2 ml glicerine
Process:
1. Mix Ingredients: in a small pot 0> stir well until the agar dissolves.
2. Heat: place over medium heat and stir continuously => bring to a gentle boil and cook for 2 minutes until the mixture thickens.
3. Pour into Mold
4. Drying: let it air dry for 1–2 days, depending on humidity and thickness => bioplastic will harden and become flexible.
Gelatine plastic
Materials:
- 12 gr gelatine
- 100 ml H2o
- 5 ml glycerine
Process:
1. Mix gelatin and water in a pot. Let it bloom for a few minutes.
2. Heat gently while stirring until fully dissolved.
3. Add glycerine and continue to stir until smooth and slightly thickened.
4. Pour into a mold.
5. Let it cool and set at room temperature.
Notes for the plastics and "fillers"
To add flowers, throns or bark that are not crushed, they should be placed once the bioplastic is in the mold.