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6. Computational Couture


Introduction to Computational Couture Week: Where Fashion Meets Technology

This week, we dive into the innovative world of computational design, exploring how cutting-edge tools and techniques are transforming the fashion industry.
One of the highlights of this week is on Grasshopper, a visual programming language integrated with Rhino 3D. Grasshopper opens up new ways for 3D modeling, allowing designers to create intricate patterns and forms. By algorithms and parametric design, you can experiment with shapes and processes.

Research & Ideation

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The lecture from Julia Koerner was truly inspiring! Her work exemplifies the innovative fusion of fashion and technology, showcasing how advanced design techniques can transform the creative process.
Julia is renowned for her collaboration with designer Iris van Herpen, a pioneer in haute couture who consistently pushes the boundaries of fashion. Together, they have explored the potential of 3D printing, utilizing it to create stunning, sculptural garments that challenge traditional fashion norms.
The use of 3D printing in her work enables the creation of complex textures and patterns that would be impossible to achieve with conventional techniques. This approach is trasnforming the fashion industry as we know it.
Julia’s insights into the creative possibilities of technology in fashion were incredibly thought-provoking. She emphasized the importance of experimentation and collaboration, inspiring me to embrace new methods and materials in my own work. Her passion for blending art and trechnology really inspired me to explore the potential of computational design in our own projects.
Overall, Julia Koerner's lecture was a testament to the future of fashion, where imagination meets innovation, and I am excited to see where this journey takes me!

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Iris van Herpen is an example in the fashion world, renowned for her groundbreaking approach that blends art, technology, and craftsmanship. Her ability to push the boundaries of couture makes her a true innovator in the field.
Seeing her work in person at the exhibition in Paris this past March was mesmerizing. Each piece was a testament to her visionary creativity, showcasing designs that seem to push the conventional limits of fashion. The way she utilizes cutting-edge technologies, such as 3D printing and laser cutting, allows her to create garments that are not only visually stunning but also structurally innovative.

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What struck me the most was the sheer craftsmanship behind each piece. Despite the advanced technologies she employs, there’s a palpable artistry that resonates throughout her collections. The way her designs interact with light and shadow creates a dynamic visual experience, making them feel almost form another world.
Iris van Herpen has not only transformed the fashion landscape but also inspired a new generation of designers to embrace innovation and sustainability. Witnessing her work firsthand inspired me to follow this new path. Her contributions are a powerful reminder of the potential that lies at the intersection of fashion and technology, encouraging all of us to think outside the box and reimagine the future of couture.

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threeASFOUR is an innovative design collective known for its groundbreaking approach to fashion that fuses art, technology, and sustainability. One of their key focuses is the exploration of geometric forms and patterns, often inspired by nature and mathematical concepts. threeASFOUR is also a pioneer in the use of advanced technologies, including 3D printing and digital fabrication.

Tools


Grasshopper

Grasshopper is a visual programming tool that works with Rhino, a 3D modeling software. It lets users create complex shapes and designs by connecting blocks that represent different actions, rather than writing code. This makes it easier to experiment and change designs quickly. It's often used by architects and designers for making unique patterns and structures, helping to be more creative in their work.

via GIPHY

Working 3D

Working with Grasshopper can be quite a shift, especially if you come from a traditional design background. Instead of focusing solely on visual modeling, Grasshopper emphasizes understanding parameters and relationships between different design elements. This means you’re thinking more about how changes to one part of the model can affect others, which can be a new way of approaching 3D design.

Here are a few tips for getting started with Grasshopper:

  1. Use Existing Files: One of the best ways to learn is to download and edit sample files. This allows you to see how different components interact and gives you a practical understanding of how to create and modify designs. You can experiment with the parameters to see immediate results, which is invaluable for learning.

  2. Start Simple: Begin with basic projects before tackling complex designs.

  3. Watch Tutorials: There are many online tutorials and resources available that can help you understand the basics and advanced techniques. Visual learning through videos can complement hands-on practice.

  4. Join Communities: Engage with Grasshopper user communities and forums. Asking questions, sharing your work, and learning from others can significantly enhance your understanding.

  5. Be Patient: Learning Grasshopper takes time. Don’t get discouraged if you find it challenging at first; persistence is key.

My favorite tip has to be number five. This week has taught me patience!!!


Parametric design

My first test with Grasshopper involved following a tutorial on how to create a vase, and I had a lot of fun with it. The step-by-step instructions were really easy to follow, making it an ideal first approach to the software. Designing in 3D this way felt quite different and unique, as I was navigating parameters and connections rather than traditional modeling techniques. It was an exciting introduction to the capabilities of Grasshopper, and I enjoyed seeing how my design came together in such a creative way.

Here is a video of how i did it.


3D printing

3D printing is a manufacturing process that creates three-dimensional objects from a digital model. It works by layering material—such as plastic, metal, or resin—according to the design specified in the model.

Here’s how it works:

  1. Design: You start with a 3D digital model, created using Grashopper (this time).

  2. Slicing: The model is processed by slicing software, which divides it into thin horizontal layers and generates instructions for the 3D printer. This time we used Ultimaker Cura.

  3. Printing: The printer follows these instructions, laying down material layer by layer to build the object from the bottom up.

  4. Finishing: Once printed, the object may require some post-processing, like removing supports or sanding.

Since it wasn’t my first time, I found the process familiar and easy to navigate. 3D printing is a powerful tool for creating intricate designs and prototypes.

Ultimaker Cura

Ultimaker Cura is an easy-to-use slicing software that prepares the 3D model for the printing process. You can read and adjust various parameters, such as layer height, print speed, and infill density, to adjust your print to your needs. It’s important to keep an eye on the estimated print time and material usage to avoid waste and ensure your prints fit within your schedule. If you find that a print is taking longer or using more material than anticipated, you can always change the parameters for greater efficiency.

Test 1: Waveline

This was my first experience with Grasshopper, and I was initially unsure about what I could create or how to navigate the program. I started by downloading a file I really liked and began editing it to fit my vision. I wanted to incorporate some wave patterns, so I focused on that while working in Grasshopper.
Once I had the design, I moved to Rhino to cut and adjust the model to match what I was looking for. This method made it easy and fun to learn Grasshopper, as I could see my changes come to life in real time.

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3D Printer Parameters

MATERIAL: PLa Iris color

WIDTH: 1.75 mm

EXTRUDE TEMPERATURE: 210º

BED TEMPERATURE: 60º

TIME: 1H 31 MIN

MATERIAL USED: 3.31 M
For the final piece, I chose a fabric that aligned with my concept and prepared the file for 3D printing. I opted for an iridescent filament in blue and purple, which perfectly complemented the wave lines I created. The printing process went smoothly, and I was thrilled with the final result. I felt a sense of pride in my work and the creative journey I had taken to get there!
As I used organza as my fabric, here's a tip that really helped me when working with this type of fabric: use the sandwich method. When using this method, you have to make a thin layer of your design just as regular on the 3D printer, do not put the fabric on yet!! Once you have a thin layer of your model printed, you have to pause the printing proccess and add your fabric. Just finish printing your design.

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Here you can find the tutorial I followed and you can download the file so you can try it for yourself.


Test 2: Circles

For my second attempt, I wanted to create something different while playing with the same circular shapes again and again. I experimented with varying sizes and heights, aligning them in different ways to form organic shapes. This approach was really fun and allowed me to explore new design possibilities.
I followed the same process as before: I downloaded a file, edited it, and then played around with the parameters. I decided to use the same materials as in my previous project because they really matched my aesthetic and added a cohesive look.

3D Printer Parameters

MATERIAL: PLa Iris color

WIDTH: 1.75 mm

EXTRUDE TEMPERATURE: 210º

BED TEMPERATURE: 60º

TIME: 1H 23 MIN

MATERIAL USED: 3.42 M

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In the end, I was happy with the result. Although it was different from my first piece, I felt a strong sense of pride in what I had created. It was exciting to see how much I could innovate with just a slight shift in approach!

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Here you can find the tutorial I followed and you can download the file so you can try it for yourself.


3D Model Files

VASE

WAVELINE

CIRCLES