10. Textile Scaffold¶

This week, we explored various techniques in which textile was the main canvas for creating new materials and exploring its properties and possiblities.

The techniques we were introduced to were:

Composites: Materials created by combining a solid material with wax or resin. We explored methods like compression molding and thermoforming with vacuum pressure.
Leather Molding: The process of shaping leather by wetting it, then stretching and sculpting it over a mold or object.
Fabric Formwork: Using structural membranes as the primary material for creating molds.
Crystallization: The process of forming solid crystals, which we learned could be applied in biofabrication to create unique materials.
Textile and Wood: Combining wood with textiles to create hybrid materials or to develop garments and soft structures from wood.
Digital and Biological Fabrication: Techniques like growing textiles from roots, germination, or producing silk from worms, demonstrating the potential for combining nature and technology in material creation.

References¶

Sumeyya Dönmez

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Sumeyya Dönmez is a designer, artist, and researcher whose work lies at the intersection of material science, sustainability, and biofabrication. She has gained recognition for exploring alternative materials and the use of living systems in design, particularly in creating innovative, sustainable materials that challenge traditional manufacturing processes. A key aspect of her work is integrating biology with design, seeking to develop sustainable materials that not only reduce environmental impact but also offer new aesthetic and functional possibilities.

Paula Ulargui

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Paula Ulargui is a designer, researcher, and innovator whose work focuses on sustainable design and biofabrication. Her projects blend natural systems with cutting-edge technology, exploring the potential of living materials, biomaterials, and renewable resources in design. Ulargui is particularly known for her work in developing alternative, sustainable materials and promoting circular design practices, where the lifecycle of materials is taken into account from creation to disposal, ideally resulting in minimal environmental impact.

Growing textiles¶

For our fisrt technique we explored the growing textiles. This technique focuses on using sprouts and the roots they create as a textile itself. For this experiment we used three different seeds for creating the sprouts.

TYPE OF PLANT	GERMINATION PROCESS	ROOT TYPE	Seed source
Brown lentils	24-48 hours to germinate in water - soaking in water before placing in growing media	taproot	supermarket - intended for cooking
Chia	germinate in 2 to 6 days - no pre-soak	tap root	Healthy food store
Grass Seed	no pre-soak	fibrous roots	garden centre

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Agar as a medium for growing

IngredientsToolsStep-by-step Directions

* 4g agar
* 1l water

* Molds 
* Pots and stovetop 
* Mixing tools (spatula, cooking spoon, fork)
* Spatula or squeegee
* digital weighing scale

* Measure the ingredients
* Add all in a pot and mix well 
* Heat the mixture until it starts bubbling while stirring constantly. 
* Pour mixture into a mold (let it cool for a bit before if the mold is not heat resistant)
* Let the material cooldown to jelly consistency

Reference

For this project we experimented and played around with different substrates for the seeds to germinate. It was a bit of a trial-and-error approach, but we made sure to keep the seeds moist every day and placed them in a warm, dark, and humid environment until they began to sprout. The first to emerge were the **chia seeds**, followed by the **lentils**, and finally the **grass**. The chia and lentils took about 3-5 days to sprout, while the grass took a bit longer—around 5-7 days. However, the results from the grass were truly impressive!

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Once we saw the first sprouts, we decided to create a small grow tent under a table to give them a better environment for growth. We set up LED grow lights and used garbage bags to create a makeshift space that would help the seeds thrive. We kept them in this setup for about a week, and the LED lights worked wonders, making the sprouts greener and sturdier. After a week, we moved the whole setup near a window to give the plants natural sunlight for the next stage of their growth.

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Results

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Resilience of Grass: The grass proved to be the most resilient and durable of all the seeds. Despite periods of neglect, like during the weekend when watering was skipped, the grass continued to grow and thrive, showing that it can handle some level of stress and still produce strong roots and sprouts.

Fast Growth, But Shorter Lifespan for Chia and Lentils: The chia and lentils sprouted the fastest, but their lifespan was shorter compared to the grass. This highlights that while fast-growing seeds may be more immediately rewarding, they may also require more consistent care to ensure their longevity.

Importance of Regular Care: Consistent watering and attention to the environment were crucial for successful germination and growth. The weekend gap in care caused some sprouts to dry out, emphasizing the importance of daily moisture and a controlled growing environment.

Role of Light and Humidity: The use of LED grow lights under the table significantly helped the sprouts develop stronger and greener stems. Creating a dark, humid environment initially was effective for the germination phase, while sunlight exposure afterward further supported growth.

Experimental Approach: The process was more about experimentation than following strict guidelines. By testing different substrates and setups, we were able to observe which conditions worked best for each type of seed, particularly how the grass performed under less ideal conditions.

Reference

Biocomposites¶

Biocomposites are materials made by combining natural fibers (like wood, hemp, or flax) with a resin or binder, creating a strong and eco-friendly alternative to traditional materials. The process to make them typically involves three main steps: cook, press, and dehydrate.

Cook: Soften the natural fibers and activate the resin for better bonding. Fibers are cleaned and mixed with a resin, then heated (sometimes with water or steam) to make them more pliable and ready for molding.
Press: Shape the material and ensure strong bonding between fibers and resin. The fiber-resin mixture is placed in a mold and pressed under heat and pressure to create a solid, cohesive material.
Dehydrate: Remove excess moisture to stabilize the material. After pressing, the material is dried, either in a dehydrator or air-dried, to ensure it is solid and durable.

Result: The final product is a lightweight, strong, and biodegradable material that can be used in various applications like packaging, furniture, construction, and automotive parts.

Reference

Waste based¶

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70 ml water
30 gr gelatine
70 gr pistachio

70 ml water
30 gr gelatine
70 gr raw wool

Textile based¶

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70 ml water
30 gr gelatine
70 gr textiles

70 ml alcohol
30 gr bee wax
70 pine resin
70 gr textile

Pine resin + bees wax¶

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For this composites we tried two diferent recipes with the same filler: Yerba Mate and Wood Dust. After different trials we figured the best recipe.

First trial

15 gr alcohol
15 gr resine
5 gr bees wax
necesary amount of filler (waste)

30ml gelatine
10 gr wood dust
70 gr water
necessary amount of wood dust

Best recipe

30 gr alcohol
10 gr resine
30 gr bees wax
necesary amount of filler (waste)

15 gr alcohol
15 gr resine
5 gr bees wax
100 gr of sand + egg shell

15ml alcohol
40 gr wood dust
15 gr resine
5 gr bees wax

30 ml alcohol
40 gr mate
10 gr resine
30 gr bees wax

15 ml alcohol
40 gr orange peel
15 gr resine
5 gr bees wax

Crystallization¶

Crystallization is a process where molecules or ions in a solution come together to form a solid, organized structure known as a crystal. In the context of textiles, crystallization can occur in natural fibers like cotton or synthetic fibers like polyester, affecting their properties such as strength, durability, and texture. By manipulating crystallization, we can enhance the performance of fabrics, improving qualities like moisture absorption, resilience, and softness.

Reference

This wasn’t my first time working with crystallization. I’ve experimented with it a few times before, and it’s always gone well. I’ve made some samples using natural fibers and borax, which turned out great. I also tried adding color to the crystals, so I used some dye in the bath. Here’s a look at some of my previous work.

Alum crystals¶

IngredientsToolsStep-by-step Directions

* 60g alum powder
* 500ml water

* Pot
* Fabric swatches 
* Jar

* Let your water heat until it reaches temperature near boiling point
* If you want to add colouring, add it before the powder
* Pour the water in the jar 
* Add the powder in the jar and mix well
* Put the fabric swatches in the mix and cover the jar
* Let it sit for at least 24h - the more time the more crystals
* It is very important that you don't touch the jar!!!

Reference

Copper crystals¶

IngredientsToolsStep-by-step Directions

* 200g copper sulphate
* 300ml water

* Pot
* Fabric swatches 
* Jar

* Let your water heat until it reaches temperature near boiling point
* If you want to add colouring, add it before the powder
* Pour the water in the jar 
* Add the powder in the jar and mix well
* Put the fabric swatches in the mix and cover the jar
* Let it sit for at least 24h - the more time the more crystals
* It is very important that you don't touch the jar!!!

Reference

Borax crystals¶

IngredientsToolsStep-by-step Directions

* 150g borax powder
* 400ml water

* Pot
* Fabric swatches 
* Jar

* Let your water heat until it reaches temperature near boiling point
* If you want to add colouring, add it before the powder
* Pour the water in the jar 
* Add the powder in the jar and mix well
* Put the fabric swatches in the mix and cover the jar
* Let it sit for at least 24h - the more time the more crystals
* It is very important that you don't touch the jar!!!

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Project¶

Since borax produced the best results for crystallization, we decided to turn it into a project. We built a structure where we could wrap fabric around it, allowing us to create a unique sculpture.

IngredientsToolsStep-by-step Directions

* 1500g borax powder
* 4l water

* Pot
* Fabric swatches 
* Jar

* Let your water heat until it reaches temperature near boiling point
* Add colouring
* Pour the water in the jar 
* Add the powder in the jar and mix well
* Put the structure in the mix and make sure it is fully covered by the water
* Cover the jar
* Let it sit for at least 72h
* It is very important that you don't touch the jar!!!

Reference