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7. BioFabricating Materials

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Indigo Themed Showcase
Researching Biofabrications 🌌

Research

Combining biology, technology, and design, biofabrication emphasises sustainable materials and unconventional methods of producing fabrics, clothing, and wearables.

Biofabrication principles in textile and material design emphasize sustainable, experimental, and community-driven approaches. Here’s an overview of these core ideas:

Bioplastics Creation

Using simple, natural ingredients such as gelatin, agar, and glycerin, bioplastics can be produced with varied flexibility, transparency, and durability. The process is adaptable, allowing for customization based on intended uses, like fabrics, wearable items, or accessory parts.

Bioleather from Bacterial Cellulose

Bacterial cellulose, often grown through kombucha cultures, forms a versatile leather substitute. This material can be cultivated, processed, and customized for desired textures and thickness, offering a sustainable, animal-free alternative for fashion and accessories.

Local Material Sourcing

Prioritizing locally sourced and renewable materials like agricultural waste or wild plants supports reduced environmental impact and fosters a connection between materials and their origins.

DIY and Hands-On Experimentation

A hands-on, experimental approach to biofabrication empowers individuals to innovate through making, testing, and iterating. This DIY mindset makes biofabrication accessible and allows creators to explore and problem-solve in real-time.

References & Inspiration

Margherita Pevere

Skin studies (2017) is a series of works investigating the material poetics of microbial cellulose, a natural polymer produced by a variety of microorganisms. I have investigated this material over the years in various contexts: I have tested how different kinds of cultures can lead to different results, compared DIY and scientific protocols, and taught how to grow it in dedicated workshops. Microbial cellulose is a key material in my project Semina Aeternitatis, which features the storage of a collection of strangers’ memories on synthetic DNA. The featureless mask I wear I Eingeweide is made of microbial cellulose, as a counterpoint to the robotic prostheses worn by Marco Donnarumma.

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Elissa Brunato

Designer Elissa Brunato has created the Bio Iridescent Sequin, a material research and design project that transforms cellulose into sparkling, biodegradable sequins in a variety of sizes and shapes, in an effort to make the fashion business more environmentally friendly. These eco-friendly sequins, which were developed in partnership with Material Scientists Hjalmar Granberg and Tiffany Abitbol from the RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, provide a biodegradable substitute for traditional sequins, which are usually composed of synthetic resins or petroleum plastic. One of the answers for a circular textile industry is this novel biomaterial.

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Tools

Measuring Tools

Measuring Cups and Spoons: Accurate measurement of ingredients (e.g., starch, gelatin, glycerin) is crucial for achieving the desired bioplastic properties. Digital Scale: For precise ingredient measurements, especially when working with small quantities or adjusting formulations.

Mixing Tools

Mixing Bowls: Heat-resistant glass or stainless steel bowls are ideal for mixing ingredients, especially when applying heat. Spatula or Spoon: Used to stir the ingredients thoroughly to ensure an even mixture. Blender (Optional): Helps in achieving a smoother texture, particularly when incorporating fibers or other additives.

Heating Equipment

Hot Plate or Stove: To heat the mixture until it reaches the correct consistency, typically around 80-90°C (176-194°F).

Process and workflow

Exploring local nature can be an inspiring and refreshing experience, especially for someone interested in art and design. It allows you to connect with the environment, observe natural forms, textures, colors, and patterns, and draw inspiration from the landscape, plants, and wildlife.

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Making bioplastics is a straightforward process that combines natural polymers with additives like plasticizers to create a flexible, biodegradable material.

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Ingredients & Recipes

Agar-Agar

Plant Based Bioplastic

* 1.5 gr Agar-agar powder
* 1 tsp coffee grounds for color and texture
* 100 ml water
* Boil the water, add agar-agar powder and stir antil dissolved
* Add coffee grounds for color or texture
* Pour the mixture onto a flat surface and let it dry for 12-24 hours.
RESULT

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## Gelatine Foam

Biolastic Cook Book by MARGARET DUNNE

Animal Based Bioplastic with Soap

* 15 gr Glycerine
* 45 ml Gelatine
* 60 ml water
* 6 ml Soap
* Add gelatine, water and glycerine into a pot.
* Cook over medium heat and stir until the gelatine dissolved and the solution starts to thicken.
* Add liquid dish soap and then whisk the solution until it all becomes foam.
* Tape down a wooden frame on a non stick surface and pour in the foam.
* Let the bioplastic dry according to the previously stated steps.

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Alginate

  • 4 gr Alginate powder
  • 8 ml glycerin
  • 200 ml water
* Boil the water, add alginate powder and stir antil dissolved
* Add glycerin
* Pour the mixture onto a flat surface and let it dry for 12-24 hours.
RESULT

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Alginate Strings

10 gr Sodium Alginate 400 ml Water 40 gr Calcium Chloride

* Mixed 400 ml  water, with 10 gr sodium alginate in a bowl and stirred until smooth.
RESULT

Different experiments

RESULT