1. Dyeing leather¶

I visited a leather manufacturer in Yerevan and selected smooth leather for my project. While exploring different textures and finishes, I chose a high-quality, supple material that fits my design needs. This leather will be an essential element in my work, allowing me to experiment with form, structure, and possibly even integrating other techniques like laser cutting or embroidery.

Mordant

The leather mordanting process I use involves alum and cream of tartar to prepare the material for dyeing. First, I dissolve alum in warm water, ensuring it fully dissolves before submerging the leather. Alum acts as a fixative, helping the dye bond to the fibers more effectively. I then add cream of tartar, which softens the leather and enhances color absorption, giving a more even and vibrant result. The leather is left to soak for several hours or overnight, allowing the mordants to penetrate deeply. After mordanting, I rinse the leather gently and let it dry before proceeding with the dyeing process.

Natural dyes with Indigo¶

Indigo is a unique natural dye that works through a fermentation and oxidation process rather than directly bonding to fibers like other dyes. When dyeing leather with indigo, I first prepare the material by mordanting it with alum and cream of tartar to improve dye absorption. Unlike typical water-soluble dyes, indigo requires a vat dyeing process, where the dye is reduced in an alkaline solution, turning it into a soluble form. The leather is submerged in the vat, where it takes on a yellow-green hue. Once removed and exposed to air, oxidation transforms the color into the deep blue characteristic of indigo. Multiple dips enhance the intensity of the shade. After dyeing, I rinse the leather thoroughly and allow it to dry, revealing the rich, layered tones of the indigo dye.

Scaffold: Indigo dyes leather

Using Cyanotype to Create a Gradient¶

Natural dyes with St. John's-wort¶

## Laser cutting

Design and Construction

Each vest is crafted with a commitment to sustainability and circular fashion. The garments incorporate:

Zero-waste pattern-making techniques to minimize fabric waste. BioChromes and natural dyes, maintaining an ecological approach. Digital fabrication methods (laser cutting, 3D printing, textile scaffolding) to create intricate geometric patterns.

Testing patterns¶

Material; Leather Technique; Laser- cut

Water- Line¶

In this project, I explored the theme of water through a sustainable and artistic approach to fashion design. I started with a single pattern, carefully cutting it to minimize material waste. Instead of discarding the leftover pieces, I repurposed them, integrating them into the shoulder section of the design. This process aligns with circular fashion principles, where every material finds a purpose, reducing excess and embracing sustainability.

To enhance the design, I incorporated metallic elements, including chains and metal accents. These materials introduced a structural contrast, symbolizing the balance between fluidity and rigidity—much like water’s interaction with solid surfaces in nature.

A key visual aspect of the project was the use of linear ornaments. I redesigned these ornaments to create a rhythmic flow, mirroring the movement of water. The process involved refining traditional decorative motifs and adapting them to fit the overall aesthetic, ensuring a dynamic yet harmonious composition.

By combining fabric, repurposed waste, and metal, I aimed to evoke both the softness and strength of water, emphasizing its transformative power. This project not only reflects artistic exploration but also reinforces my commitment to sustainability and innovative textile design.