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3. Circular Open Source Fashion

Research & Ideation

* Image Reference - Moodboard sourced from Pinterest, featuring armor, dragon skin, and chainmail textures.

This project explores the intersection of fashion, sustainability, and open-source design, with a focus on creating modular, reusable textile components that mimic the look and movement of chainmail, dragon scales, or feathers. Inspired by textures seen in fantasy armor and natural creatures, the goal was to design a versatile fabric system that could be cut, assembled, and reconfigured into different forms—ideal for use in costume design, wearable art, or fashion prototyping.

An important part of the project was the principle of circular design—developing patterns and materials that minimize waste, maximize reuse, and remain adaptable to different applications. This approach supports a shift away from fast fashion and toward modular, open-source garments that can be downloaded, remixed, and produced by anyone.

Ingredients & Material Recipes

  • Design Software: Inkscape (for SVG pattern creation)
  • Materials Tested: Laser-compatible felt, in two thicknesses (0.1 cm and 0.5 cm)
  • Tools: Laser cutter, mannequin for shaping, digital caliper for measuring links
  • Open-Source Ethos: Patterns designed with adaptability and public sharing in mind

Process & Workflow

Step 1: Pattern Design

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Using Inkscape, I designed a modular pattern inspired by chainmail links and dragon scales. The base shape mimicked traditional chainmail loops, while adjustments were made to give the forms depth and overlapping structure, resembling the way scales sit on a reptile or mythical creature. The resulting pattern provided a tactile surface that could be scaled up or down depending on the desired application—whether as full-body armor, a decorative shoulder piece, or a bag accent.

Step 2: Pattern Layout

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I created four layout variations, each experimenting with different scale sizes and spacing. The layouts were optimized to reduce material waste, arranging components as tightly as possible to make full use of the felt sheets. This step was crucial to maintain alignment with circular fashion principles, ensuring minimal leftover scraps.

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Material Preparation & Cutting

Step 1: Material Setup

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I prepped two types of felt for testing:

  • 0.1 cm thin felt – lightweight and flexible
  • 0.5 cm thick felt – denser and more rigid

The sheets were carefully positioned on the laser cutter bed to ensure alignment and optimal use of space. This preparation allowed for accurate testing of both the cutting performance and the material response.

SStep 2: Cutting Challenges

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Each felt type posed unique challenges:

  • The thin felt was prone to slipping, causing misalignment during cutting. It also overheated quickly, at one point nearly catching fire, requiring close monitoring and adjustments in laser power and speed.

  • The thicker felt proved too dense for full penetration by the laser. Despite multiple passes, many cuts remained incomplete. Ultimately, the pieces from this batch were scrapped as they were unsuitable for precise assembly.

Assembly & Construction

Step 1: Chainmail Base Assembly

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Assembling the base “chainmail” structure was time-consuming but rewarding. The interconnected links formed a flexible, knit-like textile, moving similarly to fabric while maintaining structural integrity. This base offered a perfect platform for layering decorative elements like scales or feathers.

Step 2: Scale Layering & Shaping

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The dragon scale components were significantly more complex to assemble. The overlapping design required each piece to be aligned precisely to achieve a layered, three-dimensional effect. To make the process manageable, I mounted the base chainmail onto a mannequin, which allowed the scales to be shaped organically to the body form and held in place during construction.

This sculpting technique gave the material a tailored appearance, enhancing both its aesthetic impact and wearability. Despite the manual effort involved, the visual results were striking, with textured depth and fluid movement.

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Reflection

This project demonstrates the potential of circular, modular textile systems rooted in open-source design. While there were clear challenges—particularly with material selection and laser cutter calibration—the final outcome showcased how digital tools can be used to create wearable, durable, and adaptable materials inspired by nature and fantasy.

The combination of chainmail structure and scale layering creates a textile that is both functional and decorative, with applications ranging from cosplay and costume design to experimental fashion and accessories. Importantly, the pattern files can be shared and modified, inviting others to adapt the system for their own creative needs.

Next Steps & Improvements
  • Explore biodegradable or recycled materials as alternatives to felt
  • Adjust laser power/speed settings for better control on thin fabrics
  • Test flexible TPU filament for 3D-printed scales instead of flat felt
  • Publish patterns on GitHub or FabCloud as downloadable files
  • Develop an assembly tutorial for others to follow and remix