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10. Textile Scaffolding: Fish Leather

Research

References & Inspiration

The fish leather I created during Week 10 served as the foundation for this project. My goal was to use the leather as the material for a vest, exploring innovative ways to apply patterns to the leather. This approach would also allow for flexibility in using the leather for accessories like bags or belts in future projects.


Process and workflow

Step 1: Conditioning the Leather

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After tanning the fish leather, the first step was to work the material thoroughly. This involved massaging and stretching the fibers to ensure the leather remained pliable and soft. At the same time, I applied an oil and glycerin mixture to deeply condition the fibers and maintain their flexibility.


Step 2: Shaping and Drying

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Once the leather was conditioned, I secured it to a frame to maintain its shape as it dried. This step prevented warping and ensured the leather would lay flat, making it easier to work with in subsequent steps like cutting and pattern application.


Step 3: Final Drying and Softening

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After shaping, I removed the leather from the frame and placed it on an old fabric surface to dry further. To enhance softness, I worked the leather again by hand and applied another layer of the oil and glycerin mixture. This repeated conditioning ensured the leather was supple and ready for pattern application


Step 4: Stamping the Leather

After the leather was conditioned and dried, I experimented with stamping techniques to apply a pattern:


Version 1

I wetted the leather slightly and stamped it from above, pressing the pattern into the surface. However, this method did not produce a visible or defined pattern and was deemed unsuccessful.


Version 2

I wetted the leather again but stamped it from below, hammering on the top side to emboss the pattern. This technique resulted in a clear and attractive pattern, making it the preferred method.

Result

The final leather was soft, workable, and visually enhanced with a defined stamped pattern. This method of preparation and patterning made the fish leather suitable for use in garment construction, such as a vest, as well as adaptable for accessory creation. Future applications will focus on refining stamping techniques and exploring additional patterns to expand the material's versatility.

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notes
  • More on week 7 and extra on week 11.