10. Textile Scaffolding: Fish Leather Garment Prototype¶
Research¶
References & Inspiration¶
The foundation for this project originated during Week 10 of Fab Academy, where I first developed fish leather using a tanning and dyeing process. After successfully producing a soft, workable material, I was inspired to explore how this sustainable leather alternative could be transformed into a wearable garment—specifically, a vest.
My aim was not only to test the leather’s durability and flexibility in garment construction but also to experiment with decorative surface treatments, such as stamping patterns into the leather. These design elements would allow for a personalized and professional finish while also informing how the material could be applied to other fashion items in the future—like bags, belts, or accessories.
By using fish leather, a byproduct of the seafood industry, this project embraces circular design and sustainability, transforming what would otherwise be waste into high-value, usable material.
Process and workflow¶
Step 1: Conditioning the Leather¶
After tanning the fish leather, the first step in the process was conditioning. This is a crucial phase, as freshly tanned fish leather can be stiff and fragile if not properly treated.
I began by gently massaging and stretching the fibers by hand, ensuring the leather remained soft and pliable. Simultaneously, I applied a conditioning mixture of natural oil and glycerin, which penetrated the leather and helped preserve its elasticity. This step is vital not just for the texture but also for the long-term durability of the material, especially if it’s going to be worn close to the body.
Step 2: Shaping and Initial Drying¶
Once the leather was fully conditioned, I mounted it onto a wooden frame, pulling it gently to maintain tension across the entire surface. This helped prevent wrinkles, curls, or warping as it dried—issues that can make later steps like cutting or applying patterns more difficult.
By securing it in place, the leather dried flat and even, providing a clean, predictable surface for pattern testing and garment construction.
Step 3: Final Drying and Softening¶
After the leather was removed from the frame, I allowed it to continue drying naturally by placing it on a textured fabric surface, which provided air circulation while avoiding hard pressure points.
I repeated the softening process one more time, applying another thin layer of the oil and glycerin mixture and gently working the leather by hand. This final round of conditioning resulted in a soft, supple finish—perfect for manipulating into garment shapes or sewing into accessories.
Step 4: Pattern Application – Stamping the Leather¶
With the leather now fully dried and conditioned, I turned to surface decoration. I tested two different methods of stamping patterns into the material to add a tactile and visual texture:
Version 1: Stamping from Above¶
In the first attempt, I slightly moistened the surface of the leather and applied a stamp from above, pressing it into the leather’s face with steady pressure. Unfortunately, this method did not produce a clear or visible result. The stamp failed to make a lasting impression, and the texture remained mostly flat. This version was considered unsuccessful due to lack of definition.
Version 2: Reverse Stamping from Below¶
For the second attempt, I once again moistened the leather, but this time placed the stamp underneath and used a hammer from above to press the pattern upward into the leather. This technique effectively embossed the pattern onto the surface, producing a well-defined and aesthetically pleasing texture.
This method was far more successful and became the preferred approach for future applications.
Final Result¶
The final piece of leather was soft, flexible, and visually enhanced with a clearly defined stamped pattern. The treatment created a surface suitable for use in garment construction, offering both beauty and functionality.
The stamped fish leather is now ready to be cut and sewn into the vest prototype, with its unique texture and sustainable origin serving as a focal point of the design. Beyond this project, the material holds great promise for other fashion uses, such as structured accessories, trims, or statement pieces.
Looking ahead, I plan to explore additional patterning techniques, experiment with layered embossing, and investigate the potential for laser etching or resist dyeing on fish leather. These next steps will further expand the versatility and design potential of this remarkable sustainable material.