3. Circular Open Source Fashion

Research & Ideation

This week, we focused on designing laser-cut modular pieces to create sustainable fashion accessories. The fashion industry is a major contributor to environmental pollution, but individuals can significantly impact this by responsibly disposing of or reusing textiles. I've always been captivated by tessellations due to their versatility in various fields, from architecture to industrial design.

For this project, I drew inspiration from the anatomy and patterns of a manta ray. I experimented with combining geometric shapes to develop a modular unit that could be assembled into a bag. Initially, connecting the pieces proved challenging, but I eventually settled on a single module that could be duplicated and arranged to form different shapes.

Learnings from this week:

• Research and concept development
• Low and medium-fidelity prototyping
• Digital fabrication skills
• Modular design skills and waste reduction

Fabricademy student work

• 01-Isobel Jo Leonard
• 02-Ana San Román
• 03-Elena Rotaru

References & Inspiration

One of the modular fashion precedents that inspired me was the work of Croatian designer Matija Cop. She creates modules of different sizes to form sculptural shapes that reference the arches and domes of Gothic buildings. Furthermore, I found it interesting how she uses a square shape to create flexible and somewhat organic forms.

Haeckel,Spumellaria (left) / Matija Čop (rigth)

In addition to the scientific photographs and drawings of Ernst Haeckel, I used the work of students from the Bartlett School of Architecture as a precedent. They created a structural system by transforming a sheet of felt into a three-dimensional form through the creation of organic shapes and stitching. I find this work interesting because of its conceptualization process and the creation of a functional piece using textile as the primary material.

Deformation study

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Tools

• Rhinoceros
• Adobe Illustrator
• Adobe Photoshop

Process and workflow

I started the design process by sketching the manta ray's outline and patterns in Adobe Illustrator. Then, I produced various pencil drawings for different module designs. I created an initial module, which I duplicated to construct the final piece. Paper mockups helped me visualize and refine the arrangement of patterns and shapes, as well as explore three-dimensionality.

Concept diagram, GRG

Step #1: Low Fidelity Prototype

I created this initial drawing to experiment with different ways of joining two modules and creating layered effects.

First sketch

Paper prototype

Step #2: Material selection

For fabricating the manta ray-shaped bag, I selected a combination of rigid and flexible materials, ultimately choosing stretch fabric and felt. The contrast in textures and colors added depth and visual interest to the final piece. Surprisingly, the felt pieces interlocked securely without seams or adhesives.

Material test

Step #3: Digital Prototype Rhinoceros

After prototyping the shape of the material, I digitally modeled the module using Rhinoceros. Then, I designed the joints and optimized their spacing to ensure structural integrity with the chosen materials.

Step #4:

Pattern and Joint design

Utilize Rhinoceros to generate pattern variations that visualize horizontal and vertical joint configurations. The directional changes enhance the piece's structure and three-dimensional form.

Modules

Pattern

Get your document ready to print

Use color coding to distinguish between cut lines and engraving areas. Optimize material usage by nesting parts efficiently on the cutting sheet. Prior to processing, verify that the design is free of any overlapping lines, as these can lead to cutting errors.

Laser cutting sheet

Step #3: Set up your laser

• In the laser software, choose the right settings for your material.
• Place your material on the laser bed and secure it.
• Adjust the laser focus for a precise cut.
• Turn on the extractor.
• Print

Test first! Do a small test to make sure everything is set up correctly.

Laser cutting video:

Step #4: Assembly

Even though I had digital and physical prototypes, I created a detailed pattern for each bag piece. That allowed me to accurately count the modules, establish scale, and assemble the bag systematically, especially for repetitive elements like the sides.

Bag pattern

Module variations

Step #5: Final Product

Final product v1

Final product v2

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Fabrication files

File 1: Laser cut sheets

File 2: Manta Pattern

File 3: Modules