08 Fabrication Process

Prototype V1.0

Enviromental Monitoring Sensor, PLA skin, Water Pot, Panellus stipticus and Mesh

The first prototype I made is a 3D print of one of the modules that contains a crystal container to hold water and maintain the humidity of the fungus. Then, inside, I placed a mesh where I initially thought the fungus could grow. However, since bioluminescence is affected by the environment, I decided to incorporate an opaque glass container that allows light to enter but at the same time has a filter at the top to help maintain a controlled environment. The idea is for the fungus to grow and then use the culture to place it in other containers. In this prototype, I am also interested in placing an environmental monitoring sensor at the base to collect data on pollution and CO2.

Clay 3D printing

Preparing the paste

• Use a metal wire to cut the clay into smal blocks
• Put the clay in a base, add water slowly and start mixing
• Cover the mixture with plastic wrap for 30 min.
• Mix the paste until have a soft paste
• Test the consistency of the paste using a string
• Put the paste in the cartilage

  The best way to fill the cartridge is to create a paste in a container and press the bottle onto the paste. This helps reduce the amount of air and prevents the print from exploding.

• Connect the air hose

Cura

• Select the Paste Printer
• Print Quality:
  • Select the nozzle size (4mm)
  • Layer Heigth: 1.5mm
  • Line width: 4.0mm
  • Wall tickness: 8.0mm
• Set the number of walls (2)
• Slicing the 3D model in Cura

  Important: Set the temperature (room temperature 24C)

• Export the G-code
• Open in Repetier

Repetier

Repetier is a 3D printer software that facilitates communication between a computer and a 3D printer. It also allows you to adjust settings live and pause printing if you need to refill the clay cartridge. Once you upload your g-code file to Repetier and connect the printer to your computer, you can start editing printing parameters such as feed rate and flow rate.

• Flow rate: Controls the amount of material pushed through the extruder. It can be adjusted in real time to correct printing problems. If it's too low, you'll notice a broken line. If it's too high, the material looks flattened and clumped.
• Feed rate: Movement of the printer's motors.

  I used 110% flow rate and 140% feed rate. However, I was adjusting both during the printing process because the printer has two perforations to observe the motor movement, and if the speed is too high, the clay starts to come out through the sides.

Print

• Connect the printer.
• Go to Manual Control and set the Z-axis.
• Turn on the air compressor and set the air pressure. I start using a presure between 3 to 4.

It's possible that the paste won't extrude immediately. For that, you can extrude a few starts by printing the model.

• Test the extruder: Manual control, extreme right arrow, press and verify if the motor is moving. If you don't see the movement of the motor or hear a noise, it's possible that the motor is stuck or the paste is too thick.

• If the motor moves and extrudes the paste, load your design and start printing.

• If the line is dashed, you need to increase the air pressure or the flow rate slightly.

Don't increase it too much.

• Print and monitor the progress.
• Remove and let it dry.
• Place it in the kiln at the clay's required temperature.

3D printed clay test, Germarilis Ruiz

During the drying process, this piece cracked and broke into several parts. This happens when the clay has too much water. So, considering the time we had to complete the project, I decided to experiment by creating a plaster mold and pouring a slip into it. If it doesn't work, I'll go back to one of my initial ideas which was prints using organic waste-based filament.

Casting Clay (8 part mold)

Materials - Plaster for mold (yeso) - Water - Box (cardboard or wood) - An object - Petrolium Jelly - Brush - Plastiline - Liquid clay - Pot to mix the plaster - Plastic spatule

Clay Casting process, Germarilis Ruiz

Preparing the mold

• Make a wooden box. In my case, I used cardboard because it was what I had available. However, it's best to use a box made of a rigid material that allows you to create a mold without imperfections.
• With a brush, cover the piece you want to copy with a mold release agent. For this, you can use soap or Vaseline. Make sure not to leave lumps, as these will be reflected in the mold.
• Next, place the piece you want to copy.

  If you use a 3D print with perforations like the one I used, you must cover the voids with plasticine.

• The piece should be centered in the box, but detached from the surface so that the mold has thickness.
• To prepare the mixture, you must place two parts plaster and half part water. The proportion of water should be less than that of the plaster.

  A good reference is that, for example, when you pour the plaster powder, you should see small mountains and the water below.

• Mix quickly to eliminate lumps and pour into the box.
• Move the mixture a little to eliminate air bubbles.
• Wait for the mixture to dry (24h)
• Remove the mold.
• Repeat the process until you create all the parts.
• Join all the parts using a rubber band.

  If there are open spaces in the joints, you can seal them using plasticine.

• Then, mix slip (liquid clay) to homogenize the mixture and pour it over the mold until it fills the entire void.
• Wait between 45 minutes and 1 hour, and you will see that the slip begins to dry and a border begins to appear with the contour of the figure you are making.

  If the border is very thin, you can wait longer for it to dry.

• Then, remove the excess material, pouring the slip into a container.
• Wait for the piece to dry (approx. 2 days).
• Remove the piece from the mold.
• With the silicone brush, smooth the lines of the mold joints.
• Wait for the piece to dry completely.
• Fire the piece in an oven at the temperature indicated by the slip.

Clay Model, Germarilis Ruiz

Clay modules, Germarilis Ruiz

Prototype V 2.0

Clay modeling and Bioluminescent fungi test, Germarilis Ruiz

Sculpting: Mycelium and Terracotta Clay

During the tour of Simbiotica, Jessica showed us sculptures made of mycelium, protein, and clay. This caught my attention, and she gave me a portion of mycelium, which I mixed with potato starch, yeast, and clay. The texture of the clay changed to a soft paste, similar to modeling clay, which allowed me to hand-model one of my digital designs. At the moment, the mycelium hasn't grown, but I was able to insert one of the bioluminescent mushroom cultures, and through the perforations in the base, I could perceive the light.

Important: the light emitted by the mushroom is low intensity because it still needs time to grow and for its bioluminescence to become more evident.

Recipe:

• 300 ml yeast
• 300 ml potato starch
• 250 ml water
• 1.5 kg clay
• 500 ml mycelium

Tools:

• Feather Wire Texture Tool
• Silicone Rubber Brush
• Sandpaper
• Metal wire
• Round Hole Sludge Cutter
• Sponge

Making Process:

• Cut the clay into small blocks using a metal wire to have better control of the material mixture.
• Star mixing all the materials util has a homogenous paste.
• Make a block of the paste and begin removing the clay from the center to create a hole space where the bioluminescent mushroom culture will be placed.
• Create individual spikes in different scales.
• Using the 3D model in Rhinoceros, you can make a cross-sectional to see the scale of the different volumes.
• Then, use the Feather Wire Texture Tool to texture the base you created and attach the spikes pieces with slip (liquid clay).
• After having all the volumes attached to the base, use a Round Hole Sludge Cutter to remove the clay from the spaces that need to be opened.
• Finally, use a silicone brush to smooth the edges and imperfections.
• Wait for the piece to start drying, and if you see many imperfections, you can use a damp sponge to smooth the piece.
• Wait a week for the entire volume to dry properly. Place in the kiln at a temperature between 1050-1080°C.

Panellus stipticus inoculated in a clay geometry, Germarilis Ruiz

In this sample, I replaced the distilled water with malt extract nutrients and placed the culture on agar in a substrate to accelerate the growth process. The fungus in the image was inoculated a week ago, and all the perforations in the clay piece are covered with mycelium.

Environment monitor

Smart Citizen Monitoring Sensor. Access the environmental data of Luminico (here)

The V.06 prototype was designed with an organic shape inspired by the growing forms of the fungi in the trees and the leaves of the Yagrumo, a tree from Puerto Rico. The idea behind this design was to create a modular, parametric structure that would function as a pergola, protecting the fungus from direct light. On the top, it has a water container to maintain the humidity of the crop and oxygen filters. An environmental sensor was placed on the ground to measure humidity, air quality, light, and other environmental conditions. Currently, the data is being collected in Barcelona and is part of the data that is being collected from the two cultures in the substrate.

Other Prototypes Explorations

Another prototype I explored was an open structure with the fungus culture at its center. Initially, I used mesh, but then I thought it might be interesting to have a translucent structure with a blown glass center. Something more sculptural that would somehow integrate into the organic forms of nature.

Germarilis Ruiz - This model was generated using AI

Prototype: V.06

Prototype + Environmental Monitoring Sensor (Grasshopper & Rhinoceros) by Germarilis Ruiz Galloza

3d Printed Prototype (Grasshopper & Rhinoceros) by Germarilis Ruiz Galloza