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6. Computational Couture

Research & Ideation

References & Inspiration

IRIS VAN HARPEN

1 I am absolutely captivated by the work of Iris Van Herpen. She masterfully incorporates diverse technologies like 3D-printed fabrics, laser cutting, and intricate embroidery to craft the most breathtakingly innovative dresses.

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I believe that 3D-printed dresses represent the future of fashion. By utilizing recyclable filaments or those made from biodegradable materials, this technology has the potential to significantly address sustainability issues in the fashion industry.

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JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Jean Paul Gaultier's collections have long been a celebration of boundary-pushing creativity, where fashion intersects with art and self-expression. His designs often embrace bold contrasts—mixing materials, silhouettes, and cultural references—to challenge conventional beauty norms. Gaultier’s ability to blend the avant-garde with the wearable inspires a deeper exploration of personal identity through clothing. Each piece feels like a conversation between tradition and rebellion, offering a visual narrative that encourages individuality, freedom, and confidence. This collection, like much of his work, embodies the spirit of transformation, empowering the wearer to craft their own story through fashion.

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1 Jean Paul Gaultier archieve university of fashion blog text

2 Jean Paul Gaultier fall 2022 cauture collection text

3 Jean Paul Gaultier spring 2019 text

Tools

Process and workflow

Rhino and Grasshopper ... Grasshopper is Rhino's visual scripting tool. A powerful node based editor that converts Rhino into a parametric modeling tool.

GRASSHOPPER

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If you're unsure where specific components are located, press [command], [alt], and left-click!

Having no prior experience with Grasshopper, I began by experimenting with each algorithm Eugenio provided in his files to understand how each component works.

You can view the tutorial with Eugenio it is very usefull text

Learning to design in Grasshopper has been a challenging yet rewarding experience. While the process wasn’t easy, I dedicated time to understanding the tool and experimenting with its components. I decided to create a vase, and the picture below illustrates all the steps I followed to bring the design to life. From constructing the initial geometry to refining the form and exploring parametric features, I pushed myself to build something functional and visually appealing. This exercise taught me a lot about precision, iteration, and problem-solving, and I’m proud of the progress I’ve made. Grasshopper may be complex, but every attempt brings me closer to mastering it. alt text

After finalizing my design in Grasshopper, I brought it into Ultimaker to prepare it for 3D printing. Seeing the digital design come to life in a tangible form was incredibly rewarding. I carefully optimized the vase's structure for printability, ensuring that the geometry translated smoothly into the slicing software. This step allowed me to test how well the design would perform in a real-world setting and gave me insight into the connection between parametric design and fabrication. Overall, this process has strengthened my skills in digital design and 3D printing, pushing me to create functional, well-executed pieces

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3D Printer

3D printers operate by using solid filaments, which are melted, extruded, and then solidified again to create objects layer by layer. At the core of the printer is the motherboard, which acts as its brain, coordinating all operations. The nozzle plays a crucial role in the process: it receives filament from the hotend, where it melts, and then extrudes it onto the build platform. The thermostat ensures the hotend maintains the optimal temperature for the specific filament being used. Common filament types include PLA, a biodegradable bioplastic made from starch, and PETG, a recyclable and durable material suitable for various applications.

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Step

PREPARING FILE TO 3D PRINTING

Import the STL file to Ultimaker Cura

Preview the plate and slices

Change the settings of the material - PLA 0.4

Preview - Set Fine 0.1 and Infiller 0

1 Remove and clean the glass plate to ensure a smooth and debris-free surface.

2 Place the glass plate back in its position securely.

3 Select your file from the SD card menu using the printer's interface.

4 Use tweezers to remove the initial extrusion to prevent it from interfering with the print.

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After finalizing the design, I used a 3D printer to bring it to life with remarkable precision. The printer facilitated the creation of intricate details and complex forms that would be difficult to achieve by hand. By carefully calibrating the parameters based on the material type and thickness, I ensured smooth operation and flawless results. Additionally, this process provided an opportunity to experiment with different settings, such as speed and temperature, allowing me to explore various effects and finishes. Utilizing the 3D printer not only enhanced the accuracy of the design but also elevated its overall aesthetic and structural integrity..

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Fabrication files


  1. File: 3d modelling of mannequin 

  2. File: Laser cut sheets 

  3. File: additional models