Sculpture 2 Process: Philomel

On this page you will see the process that brought my Philomel sculpture to life. It will run through the initial design process, prototyping journey and material research in a chronological order. This page includes all the fabrication files and code for this sculpture.

My second sculpture is Philomel, she is inspired by the rhythms of bird migration. When I was a kid the appearance of migrating swifts would always mean the summer holdiays were coming. I would sit with my legs up in the garden watching them dance above me until the sun made my eyes go funny. I loved this brief connection between the silly rhythmns of my life and that of the birds in the sky.

It was important for me to base one of the sculptures on this cycle of coming and going which happens all the time above our heads. As our encounters with migrating birds are brief, it is difficult to see the disruption that is going on whilst we are not looking up.

For millions of years, birds have followed invisible highways in the sky — ancient routes etched not by maps, but by instinct. Each year, they lift off from wintering grounds and travel thousands of miles to breeding sites, guided by the tilt of the Earth, the length of days, and ancestral memory.

But the skies are changing.

As the planet warms, the timing of spring shifts unevenly across the globe. Trees leaf out earlier, insects hatch sooner, and the landscapes birds return to are no longer what they were. Many migratory birds, cued by daylight rather than temperature, arrive to find that the seasonal abundance they rely on has already peaked — or never fully arrived.

This growing mismatch ripples through their lives. Some birds are forced to reroute, flying longer or riskier paths in search of food and shelter. Others shorten their journeys or linger in stopover sites ill-equipped to support them. The results can be subtle at first: weaker individuals, fewer chicks, missed breeding opportunities. But over time, these disruptions accumulate — shrinking populations, failed migrations, and rising risks at every stage of the journey.

Some species try to adjust, shifting their migrations by days or even weeks. But others cannot. Their internal clocks are hardwired to celestial rhythms that climate change does not obey.

And so the migrations continue — precise, determined, beautiful — but increasingly out of sync with a world no longer waiting.

I will link here some interesting article on this pressing issue that informed my initial research:

This video is also a great way into the topic that I found helpful:

My initial idea was to make a sculpture with wings. I wanted them to move in a graceful flapping motion but get progressively faster as someone approached it.

I collated images into a moodboard of inspiration as well as paying extra special attention to the birds in my neighbourhood looking for both calm and chaotic behaviours.

I started drawing out my ideas for the form the sculpture will take. I knew that the form would depend a lot on the mechanism I could create and this would also determine the scale so my initial designs were very loose. I knew I wanted the piece to be suspended above the viewer and for the wings to have 2 articulated extensions. I was also open to the possibility of mulitple sets of wings to suggest a flock.

✈︎PROTOTYPING MOTION✈︎¶

For the mechanism I was looking into open source projects and tutorials on building a motor powered ornithopter with articulated wings.

These were the sources that inspired me and that had the motion closest to how I was visualising it in my head.

Again, I started by drawing out the mechanisms to understand how they worked and how I could put them together into a prototype that suits my needs:

I had been looking at the Michelle Vossen's documentation, in which she experiments with building an ornithopter during Fabacademy. I thought she took a nice approach to working out a reliable linkage system by laser cutting lengths of wood with lots of holes in so that she could try out different dimensions to find the best movement. Again, as I don't have prior knowledge of mechanical engineering or the physics behind these mechanisms, trial and error seemed the best approach.

My goal was to make a system that is adaptable as possible so that I could try out many options and refine the motion from there.

I quickly got to work making a laser cut file based on rough estimates of proportions from the vidoes I had watched. I laser cutting the pieces from 6mm ply. I would use these lengths to create a mechanism with 2 gears as I had seen in other projects.

Next, I generated some basic gears using STL gears.com.I estimated what I might need ensuring that the diameter of the gears was wide enough to maximise my movement. I also ensured there weren't too many teeth so that it would not be too hard to 3D print.

In Rhino I added various holes from which I could connect my wings at different distances from the Bore.

I also made some spacers of different sizes so I could test how far the wings would need to be offset from the gears.

Here is the stl file for my gear, you can download it from Sketchfab below. And you can download the .dxf file to laser cut the test pieces here: ¹

ornithopter prototype gear by issy2842 on Sketchfab

Iteration 1¶

The assembly process was very quick, dirty and largely intuitive. I took inspiration from the basic design in this video to make a frame from the pieces and gluing it to a solid base. I then connected the different lengths with a M3 screw and nut until the dimensions looked about right. I used some scrap metal rod I found in the work shop and bent it to make a hook that would push and pull the extension on the wing.

ANALYSIS

I was pretty happy with the shape of the movement as it had the articulate wing and extention I wanted.
However, the bolts and nuts I used for hinges constantly came loose disabling the movement
My gears were very misaligned. With this prototype it was difficult to get the two wings moving at the same time and I had to constantly adjust things so it would keep working.

Going into prototype 2 I would:

Use mini bearings and book screws at linkage points and at the gear bore instead of screws and nuts.
Use a gear simulator to work out the optimum distance between the gears.
I needed stronger fixed points, these points were initially glued and this left too much flex in the mechanism so it was hard to tell if the dimensions were right or not.
Intergrating connections for a motor.

Linkage Hardware¶

Before I could get back to working on the file for iteration 2, I needed to work out the best linkage hardware to use.

After some research I decided that ball bearings would be most appropriate for the gears as this would reduce friction in my system. I would also test these on linkage points to see if it again reduced inertia. I used these ones as they were the smallest I could find: Mini Bearings.

I also decided to test Chicago Screws (or book screws/ furniture screws). Firstly because they are made with a smooth cylinder which creates less friction than a threaded screw, but also because the ends lock into the cylinder with the thread inside, making it much more secure. I used these ones: Chicago Screws.

I tested each out to see how the movement was:

Due to the height of each bearing (4mm) I had to use multiple per connection to link each piece and put a ordinary screw through them. This was not ideal as it created a lot of friction and it was difficult to make the connection strong.

I decided to only use the bearings at the gear bore and connect the rest with Chicago screws, as they gave a smooth and unimpedimented motion whilst holding the connection well:

Iteration 2¶

With this decided I adjusted my Rhino file with the ** best dimensions per piece, resized the holes for the chicago screws and generated some more gears with the bore size the same as the mini bearings.**

I also changed the gears by adding an attachment for a motor and made them slightly bigger and thinner to increase the size of the movement but save on print time.

Finally I used the same gear generator to work out the optimum distance between the gears for interlocking and adjusted my pieces accordingly.

The new gear for iteration 2 can be downloaded from sketchfab below and you can download the .dxf file for the pieces here: ².

Gear for Ornithopter Iteration 2 by issy2842 on Sketchfab

I glued the base pieces together again and used the same bent pieces of metal as I did before to assemble iteration two.

I was much happier with the movement I created in iteration 2. I loved the extension of the wings and the way the central and extended part of the wings moved differently from each other.

♒︎ELECTRONIC INTEGRATION♒︎¶

Choosing a motor¶

When I began thinking about how to intergrate a motor into this system I didn't know what kind of motor to use. I knew that a continuous servo would probably not have enough torque to move the linkage system so I was looking for different options.

I used videos like this to understand the options out there:

I made a pros and cons between a DC motor and a Stepper motor:

DC MOTORS PROS AND CONS

✓PROS✓

High Speed
Gear box can be added to decrease speed and increase torque
Great for continous smooth rotation

✗CONS✗

Low Torque
Need a motor driver
Very high speeds
Doesn't know its position
Speed adjustment not possible without a gearbox

STEPPER MOTORS PROS AND CONS

✓PROS✓

Holds position when insufficient torque (doesn't stall)
Can control position and speed very precisely
Microstepping control
High torque options

✗CONS✗

Rotation not as smooth due to stepping
Needs a motor driver
Heavier
Harder to programme

From these considerations I decided to go with a Stepper motor. Because I knew I would need to programme variations in the speed based on a proximity sensor so that the flapping would speed up as someone approached.

I decided to use the Two Trees Nema 17 17HS4401 as it has a 42 N.cm/m holding torque which I felt would be sufficient to move my linkage system and was relatively small and light in comparison to the alternatives.

Choosing a Motor Driver¶

What is a motor driver?

A motor driver is like an amplifier which converts the low current signal into a high current signal. It goes between the motor and the microcontroller, getting power from an external power source and control signals from the microcontroller.

I looked at options such as the A4988, DRV8825, TB6600 or the L298N.

The DRV8825 looked like the best option for my situation as it was relatively cheap whilst still having a high enough max. current to use with my motor. It was also very well documented in use with the Nema 17

Image from mytectutor, DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver With Arduino.

Current Limit¶

What is a Current Limit?

Setting the current limit prevents the current flowing through the stepper motors coils from exceeding the rated current limit of the motor.

Stepper motors like the NEMA 17 17HS4401 have a rated current (1.7A). If you push more current than that the motor coils heat up and excessive heat can permanently damaging or reducing the lifespan of the motor.

Motor drivers have current handling limits too. If the motor tries to draw more current than the driver can handle, the driver overheats.

By setting the current properly avoids damage and ensure smooth & accurate running fo the motor. Current affects torque, vibration, and position accuracy. If it’s too high you might get more torque, but at the cost of heat and noise. If too low, the motor might skip steps or stall.

I used these tutorials to work out how to set the current limit correctly on the DRV8825.

The Circuitist

TechTutor

Working out the Vref¶

What is the Vref?

The V ref is a reference voltage, it tells the driver how much current to allow through the motor coils.

You work it out differently for different motor drivers but for the DRV8825 the equation is:

Vref = Current Limit (of stepper motor)/ 2 .

So for the Nema 17 17HS4401 the current limit is 1.7A, I reduced this to 1.68 A for safety margin.

Vref = 1.68 A / 2

Vref = 0.84V.

Setting the Current Limit¶

To set the Vref we use a multimeter to measure the reference voltage between the driver’s potentiometer screw and ground.The circuit is set up as shown below where 5V is supplied to the SLEEP and RESET pins. The DRV8825 should also be powered via VMOT. I used a 12V power supply.

Image from mytectutor, DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver With Arduino.

Instructions

Use a small screwdriver and an alligator clip to connect the potentiometer on the stepper driver to the positive (red) probe of your multimeter.

Connect the negative (black) probe of the multimeter to GND on the driver or controller board.

Set your multimeter to DC voltage mode.

Gently place the tip of the screwdriver on the potentiometer (the small screw on the driver). VERY GENTLY, I BROKE SO MANY DRIVERS BY PUSHING TOO HARD!!

While touching the potentiometer:

Turn clockwise to increase the reference voltage.

Turn counterclockwise to decrease the reference voltage.

Watch the voltage reading on your multimeter and adjust until it matches your calculated Vref, in my case 0.84 V.

Here are images of my breadboard for reference:

Stepper motor circuit¶

To get the stepper motor set up and spinning I used this tutorial:

DIY Engineers Blog here

I made some changes to their circuit to suit my needs. I am using the Xiao ESP32C3 instead of the Arduino and incorperating a HC-SR04 Ultrasonic sensor by which to control the speed of the motor based on the proximity of the viewer. If you want to see my documentation on this sensor see my page for Daphne.

Continuous Rotation¶

I first tested the circuit without the sensor interaction to see if I could simply get the stepper moving in a continuous RPM. (I simply removed the sensor from the circuit).

The breadboard looks like this:

WIRING:

Connect the 12V power supply to VMOT and ground on the DRV8825 through a 100 uf electrolytic capacitor.
Connect the stepper motor to B2, B1, A1, A2 pins on the motor driver. Which colour wire this is should be clear from the datasheet for your motor, for me: B2: Blue, B1: Red, A1: Black, A2: Green.
Connect a common ground between the Xiao ESP32C3 and the driver
Connect the microstepping pins on the driver to GPI0 5, 6. and 7.
Connect Reset and Sleep to 5V on the microcontroller.
Connect DIRECTION pin to GPI02 and STEP pin to GPI0 3.

THE CODE:

This code will make the stepper move in a 30 RPM continuous rotation.

- #include <AccelStepper.h>

// Define stepper pins
#define STEP_PIN 3      // Step pin
#define DIR_PIN 2       // Direction pin

// Microstepping control pins
#define M0_PIN 5 
#define M1_PIN 6
#define M2_PIN 7

// Steps per revolution for the motor (updated for half stepping)
const float stepsPerRevolution = 400; // 200 * 2 for half stepping (half-stepping doubles the steps)

// Microstepping multiplier (1, 2, 4, 8, 16, or 32)
int microstepSetting = 2;  // Set to 2 for half-stepping

// AccelStepper instance in driver mode
AccelStepper stepper(AccelStepper::DRIVER, STEP_PIN, DIR_PIN);

void setup() {
// Set microstepping pins as outputs
pinMode(M0_PIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(M1_PIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(M2_PIN, OUTPUT);

// Set microstepping mode for half-stepping
digitalWrite(M0_PIN, LOW);  // Set to LOW for half-step
digitalWrite(M1_PIN, HIGH); // Set to HIGH for half-step
digitalWrite(M2_PIN, LOW);  // Set to LOW for half-step

// Set the desired RPM and the max RPM
float desiredRPM = 30;  // Set the desired speed in rpm (revolutions per minute)
float MaxRPM = 30;      // Set max speed in rpm (revolutions per minute)

// Calculate and set the desired and max speed in steps per second
float speedStepsPerSec = (microstepSetting * stepsPerRevolution * desiredRPM) / 60.0;
float Max_Speed_StepsPerSec = microstepSetting * stepsPerRevolution * MaxRPM / 60.0; // Specify max speed in steps/sec (converted from RPM)

// Update speed and max speed in steps per second
stepper.setMaxSpeed(Max_Speed_StepsPerSec);
stepper.setSpeed(speedStepsPerSec);
}

void loop() {
// Run the motor at constant speed
stepper.runSpeed();
}

Integrating the Sensor Interaction¶

Then I integrated the sensor into the system:

WIRING:

Connect the power and griund of the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic sensor to 5V and ground on the microcontroller.
Connect Trig pin to GPI010 and Echo to GPI09.

THE CODE:

This code controls a stepper motor based on the distance measured by an ultrasonic sensor.

If the Distance ≥ 60 cm → the RPM is 30
30 cm ≤ Distance < 60 cm → the RPM is 60
2 cm ≤ Distance < 30 cm → the RPM is 80
Distance < 2 cm or > 200 cm → the RPM is 30

The stepper motor is using half stepping.

#include <AccelStepper.h>

 // Define stepper pins
#define STEP_PIN 3      // Step pin
#define DIR_PIN 2       // Direction pin

// Microstepping control pins
#define M0_PIN 5
#define M1_PIN 6
#define M2_PIN 7

// Define ultrasonic sensor pins
const int trigPin = 10;     // GPIO 10
const int echoPin = 9;      // GPIO 9

// Variables for ultrasonic sensor
long duration;             // Variable to store pulse duration
float distanceCM;          // Variable to store distance in CM
float distanceIN;          // Variable to store distance in IN

// Steps per revolution for the motor (updated for half stepping)
const float stepsPerRevolution = 400; // 200 * 2 for half stepping (half-stepping doubles the steps)

// AccelStepper instance in driver mode
AccelStepper stepper(AccelStepper::DRIVER, STEP_PIN, DIR_PIN);

// Timing variables for ultrasonic sensor
unsigned long lastSensorReadTime = 0;
unsigned long sensorInterval = 50; // Interval to read sensor (in milliseconds)

float lastValidSpeed = 0; // Store the last valid speed (in steps per second)

void setup() {
pinMode(M0_PIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(M1_PIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(M2_PIN, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(M0_PIN, LOW);  
digitalWrite(M1_PIN, HIGH);
digitalWrite(M2_PIN, LOW);

Serial.begin(9600);

pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);

stepper.setMaxSpeed(0);
stepper.setSpeed(0);
}

void loop() {
if (millis() - lastSensorReadTime >= sensorInterval) {
    lastSensorReadTime = millis();

    digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
    delayMicroseconds(2);

    digitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH);
    delayMicroseconds(10);
    digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);

    // Use a timeout value for pulseIn to avoid blocking
    duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH, 20000); // 20000 is the timeout (20ms)

    if (duration == 0) {
    // If no valid pulse was received, keep the motor at last valid speed
    stepper.setSpeed(lastValidSpeed);
    return;
    }

    distanceCM = (duration * 0.034) / 2;
    distanceIN = distanceCM / 2.54;

    if (distanceCM > 0 && distanceCM <= 200) {
    float desiredRPM;

    if (distanceCM >= 60) {
        desiredRPM = 30;
    } else if (distanceCM >= 30 && distanceCM < 60) {
        desiredRPM = 60;
    } else if (distanceCM >= 2 && distanceCM < 30) {
        desiredRPM = 80;
    } else {
        desiredRPM = 0;
    }

    float speedStepsPerSec = (stepsPerRevolution * desiredRPM) / 60.0;
    float Max_Speed_StepsPerSec = (stepsPerRevolution * desiredRPM) / 60.0;

    if (speedStepsPerSec > 0) {
        stepper.setMaxSpeed(Max_Speed_StepsPerSec);
        stepper.setSpeed(speedStepsPerSec);
        lastValidSpeed = speedStepsPerSec;
    }

    // Print fewer details for debugging
    Serial.print("RPM: ");
    Serial.println(desiredRPM);
    } else {
    stepper.setSpeed(lastValidSpeed);  // Use the last valid speed
    }
}

stepper.runSpeed();
}

❦LITTLE HICCUP❦¶

Next, it was time to integrate my circuit into the linkage system.

I designed a press fit connection between the gear and the stepper motor, so it was as simple as sliding it on to the back of my prototype.

Unfortunately, this is when I ran into a lot of my problems with this system. The stepper motor really struggled to complete the full turn of the gears. When the motor was pulling the linkage system round it was fine, but it struggled when it was pushing as the resistance in the system was too high, causing the motor to stall.

After talking to my various mentors, we decided it was probably the linkage system that was the issue. In order for a linkage system to work smoothly you have to find the best configuration of rigid links and joints to achieve a desired motion and not put unnecessary strain on the motor. My trial and error approach had allowed me to create a system that worked by hand but it required me to vary pressure and position to do this in a way the stepper motor could not.

I first tried to use Linkage Mechanism Designer and Simulator software to work out more appropriate dimensions. However, I was really out of my depth with this and couldn't work out how to build the linkage system. I also tried DIY walkers.com but the linkage I had designed didn't fit into any of the linkage systems you could test with it e.g 4 bar, 6 bar or strand beast linkage mechanism.

New Linkage System¶

From here I was in a bit of a pickle because all my other mechanisms were progressing and I had to move on from the prototyping phase with this one. I didn't think I had the mechanical understanding to work out how to fix my linkage system so I decided to ✰kill my darlings✰ and find a linkage system from an open source project that already worked and adapt it to my needs:

I found this project which on instructables Create a Bird-Like Ornithopter Mechanism which created a Fusion 360 simulation of a elegant ornithipter mechanism and had the .stl files available.

I imported the .stl files into rhino to get the measurements of each piece and used these to create a .dxf file.

Iteration 3¶

I got to work measuring the distances between each linkage point in the model and adapting these dimensions to make my own pieces.

ADAPTIONS:

Changing size of linkage point holes to fit book screws and bearings.
Add connection holes to add my stepper motor.
I changed the 3rd gear which is attached to the motor as I couldn't make the smaller one in the original project work. I worked out the appropriate distance and created new attachments for this gear. I ensured this gear bore would fit on my motor.
Made many different sized spacers to test optimum option.
Redesigned the pieces to give a more organic look and bird like quality.
Created a base plate for more stability and to attach the motor to.

YOU CAN DOWNLOAD THE .DXF LASER FILE FOR ITERATION 3 HERE: ³

Additionally, I had to create something to connect the stepper motor securely to the 3rd gear and at the correct height to be aligned with the other gears. I used Rhino to design and 3D print this component:

This is made to have a press fit on to the Nema 17 and secured with a threaded insert and grub screw. The third gear also is attached to the front of the plate with 4 M1 screws and nuts.

You can download the .stl file form sketchfab below:

Stepper connector by issy2842 on Sketchfab

I printed this piece with 1.7mm transparent filament using thr Prusa and lasercut the ornithopter pieces out of 2mm scrap acrylic and 3mm acrylic for the gears and spacers.

❈TESTING ITERATION 3 WITH ELECTRONICS❈¶

Miraculously, she worked!! I tested this new linkage with continuous rotation at various increasing RPMs and was happy with the ease at which the Stepper moved the linkage and created the movement.

The only problem with it now was the shape. I didn't like the silhouette of the design and thought it read as the face of a bird rather than the body and wings.

Iteration 4- redesigning the shape¶

I went back into Rhino and tried to sketch out different shapes for the body which still had enough space to connect all the components of the mechanism.

Then I lasercut them out of cardboard until I found a shape that I felt right and worked in perspective with the wings.

I decided that the design below was the best shape and that the asymetry of it made the bird look more like it was in motion, whilst still allowing enough space the attach the motor. I cut the new pieces out of white 2mm acrylic, except the gears and spacers, which I cut from 3mm transparent acrylic.

You can see that I also added lots of little holes into the final pieces so that I could later attach feathers.

YOU CAN DOWNLOAD THE LASER CUTTING FILE FOR ITERATION 4 HERE. THIS IS THE FINAL LASERCUT FILE: ⁴

⚱︎BIO-FABRICATION⚱︎¶

For the feathers of my sculpture I knew I wanted to use a biomaterial. It was important to me that the organic parts of the sculpture like petals, feathers and bones had their own temporality and would change and decay as the sculpture moves.

I made a moodboard and was thinking about a semi opaque material that was light and flexible. I wanted the feathers to look ethereal and layer up nicely. I was also interested in playing with colour to create a subtle, dappled pattern.

I had seen this sample in the Textile Lab material library and thought it had the kind of affect I would like. We had also made alginate during Biomaterials Week and I remember it being a mesmerising and easy material to work with.

Material Tests¶

I followed the Recipe I found in the materials archive with some slight alterations.

Alginate Recipe:

200ml water
8g Alginate
30g Glycerine
A drop of sunflower oil.
Make a solution of Calcium Chloride at a 90% water to 10% Calcium Chloride ratio.
Add the ingredients and mix with a handblender until well incorperated. Leave overnight to let airbubbles rise to the surface and pop.
Add food colouring to some mixture.
Cast on a waterproof surface and spray with Calcium Chloride Solution.

I added some colour to the samples to see if I could get some gradual specks of colour or a gradient across a piece.

My results were very patchy, wobbly and overall looked a lot like chicken breast (slightly off).

After talking to my mentors, I realised this was because I didn't cast it as a sheet with something (a wooden frame) to hold onto and stop it from shrivelling up . My samples were much too thick for the effect I want, had a very uneven surface and frankly the colour was a horrible idea.

But, I really liked the material and on some of my thinner samples I could see the vision so I decided to risk it all and make some sheets!

Alginate Sheets¶

Making Alginate Sheets:

To make alginate sheets, I started by making some wooden frames (24cm x 56 cm) to cast the alginate in. I used 4mm wooden pieces I bought from the hardware store. The alginate fixes to the wooden frame at its edges. This means that it won't shrink as it cures and get an uneven surface like it did in my material tests.
I taped the corners of the frame together, but in hindsight I would use some sort of clamp or screw as my corners popped off during the curing process and effected the shape of my sheets.
I placed these on a glass surface and secured them down tightly with duct tape and clamps.The glass surface keeps the surface of the alginate smooth and gives a glossy finish.
I made 2.5 x the quantities of the original recipe and a whole spray bottle of calcium chloride solution.
I poured a small amount of the alginate mixture into the frame and then moved the frame from side to side and back and forth until it spread out evenly and filled the whole frame with a thin layer. I tapped the frame against the table to remove air bubbles.
I then sprayed the top surface of the sheets with the calcium chloride solution. I used a lot of solution as it soaks through to slowly cure all the layers.
It took about 5 days to fully cure and I ended up with beautiful sheets! Some of them had burst free of their frames but I was still very happy with the material qualities and thinness of the sheets.

Lasercutting Alginate Sheets¶

To make the feather shapes I created a .dxf file in Rhino:

You can download the laser file for my feathers here: ⁵.

I ran some test with the laser cutter to find the best settings:

In order to cut through the alginate but not get the singed edges, good settings are:

SPEED: 75
MAX POWER: 30
MIN POWER: 15

I placed the sheets on top of a piece of cardboard when lasercutting to prevent any of the alginate getting into the machine and I had to reset the gauge everytime I had a new sheet as they were all different thicknesses.

N.B Remember to clean the lens after cutting a biomaterial.

The results were very nice and I loved the crisp edges the lasercutting gave me:

As the thickness of the alginate sheets were not uniform some feathers got a little more singed than others, leaving some brown edges and residue on the surface. This was kind of unavoidable unless I tested the settings on every sheet and I didn't have enough material to do this. So instead I used baby oil and sandpaper to remove as much of the residue as I could.

♦︎CONSTRUCTING BIRDY♦︎¶

I took a responsive and intuitive approach to constructing the bird.

I built a wire frame first by threading the same flower making wires I had used in my sculpture Daphne through the holes in each wing.
I twisted them together until I made a basic wing-shaped frame.
I cut a piece of white organza to a shape slightly bigger than the wire frame and then sewed the fabric over the frame with white thread.
With this as a base structure, I sewed each Alginate feather onto the structure, making sure to overlap them to give a winglike shape.
I decided half way through that I didn't actually like the feathers being so transparent, somehow the sheets did not dry white and semi opaque like my tests. So I decided to paint them with a thin layer of chalk goucahe very roughly to give them a texture and a semi translucency.
Then I repeated this on the otherside.

As you can see from my finished picture from this day, this is a very long, labourious process but I was super happy with how the wings turned out!

I took a responsive and intuitive approach to constructing the bird.

I built a wire frame first by threading the same flower making wires I had used in my sculpture Daphne through the holes in each wing.
I twisted them together until I made a basic wing-shaped frame.
I cut a piece of white organza to a shape slightly bigger than the wire frame and then sewed the fabric over the frame with white thread.
With this as a base structure, I sewed each Alginate feather onto the structure, making sure to overlap them to give a winglike shape.
I decided half way through that I didn't actually like the feathers being so transparent, somehow the sheets did not dry white and semi opaque like my tests. So I decided to paint them with a thin layer of chalk goucahe very roughly to give them a texture and a semi translucency.
Then I repeated this on the otherside.

As you can tell from the quality of my finished picture, this is a very long, labourious process but I was super happy with how the wings turned out!

♛FINAL TOUCHES♛¶

To complete the sculpture, I transferred all the electronics onto protoboard and attached them to the back of the baseplate with glue.

Then, it was time to see the electronics and mechanism work with the new parts and completed wings:

That completes the process! Please see my Project Page for the final result,installation and interaction with this work!

⚡︎FABRICATION FILES:⚡︎¶

File: DXF file for iteration 1 laser pieces ↩
File: DXF file for iteration 2 laser pieces ↩
File: DXF file for iteration 3 laser pieces ↩
File: DXF file for iteration 4: FINAL BIRD DESIGN lasercut file ↩
File: DXF file for lasercutting alginate feathers ↩