10. Textile Scaffold

During this week dedicated to Textile Scaffold, we will explore one of the most innovative areas in design and engineering: the combination of subtractive technologies, such as CNC routers, with the creation of textile structures.
The use of CNC routers will allow us to explore the fabrication of complex molds with great precision, using materials such as wood, plastics, or foam. These molds are essential for the development of textile structures, providing the necessary support for the fabrics to take on the desired shape.

APPLICATIONS

LE CHEMIN DES MAQUETTES / Jean-Louis Guimaron

Jean-Louis Guimaron is an artist and designer known for working with metallic materials, creating innovative sculptural and fashion pieces. His work often involves transforming metals and other hard materials into artistic forms, blending elements of haute couture and contemporary sculpture.

BALMAIN / Oliver Rousteing

His skill in working with metals and his innovative approach fit perfectly with the avant-garde vision of Olivier Rousteing, the creative director of Balmain. This reflects a shared desire from both parties to explore and push the boundaries of fashion in new directions.

FLÁVIO JUÁN NÚÑEZ

Flávio Juan Núñez appears to be a designer and artisan with a focus on haute couture and exceptional pieces. His work as a sculptor and prototype developer suggests that he combines artistic and technical skills to create unique pieces, possibly in the fields of fashion, art, and sculpture.

SANA MARKS

Sana Marks is a brand driven by a passion for fashion bags, with a strong focus on artistry and innovation. The brand’s journey began when its creator’s graduate project was featured in Fashion Bags and Accessories: Creative Design and Production (2023) by Darla Jane Gilroy, sparking an exploration into new approaches to bag design and production.

At Sana Marks, the possibilities are limitless, with 3D design technology unlocking new creative opportunities for each collection. The brand’s mission is to bridge the gap between artistry and production, creating bags that are not only functional but also exceptional works of art.

DESIGN PROCESS

THE ROUTER CNC

Safety training

The use of CNC machines carries various hazards because, for its operation, high-speed rotational tools with sharp edges, high-voltage and heavy parts are used.

• Impact-proof safety goggles, as the chips can be projected because of the operations.
  
• Noise protection headset, as the noise can get up to 70dBA near the machine.
  
• 100% cotton Lab coat/overalls.
  
• No hanging accessories like jewelry or garments.
  
• NO Shorts.
  
• Safety boots/shoes that have toe protection from falling heavy parts.
  
• Breathing mask, as the operations can project fine dust depending on the material being processed.

General precautions

The operator

The space

- The operator must remain attentive and close to the machine when it is working. - Do not wear gloves during the operation of the machine. - The closet door must remain closed while the machine is on. - The machine must be operated exclusively by trained staff. - Do not put your hands near the cutting area while the machine is working.

- The floor must be clean and free of any chips or residues from material to avoid falls or slippery floors. - Keep distance from the machine as it can move very fast in any direction. - Remember all automated machines can start suddenly, as long as the emergency stop is not activated. - There are high-voltage components at use in this machine. - Make sure the cutting tool is tight and centered. - Make sure the material is well positioned, fixed and there are no obstacles in the trajectory of the cut, like clamps, nails or even heavy knots.

Materials

CNC routers are versatile tools that can cut and shape a wide range of materials with different properties. The following table shows some features and recommendations for cutting different materials.

Material	Description	Machining Recommendations
ABS	Durable, strong plastic used widely across industries.	Use sharp, single-flute tools for a smooth finish.
Acrylic	Clear, plastic material with excellent clarity and weather resistance.	Use carbide tools and coolant to prevent melting or cracking.
ALUCOBOND / DIBOND ®	A composite panel with two aluminum sheets bonded to a non-aluminum core.	Use sharp tools with high cutting speed for clean edges
Aluminum	Lightweight, corrosion-resistant metal used in various applications.	Use sharp, multi-flute cutters and a coolant to prevent buildup.
Copper	Highly conductive metal used in electrical components.	Use sharp, single or double-flute cutters for clean cuts.
Estirene	A brittle, transparent plastic used in model making and prototypes.	Ensure proper clamping and use sharp tools to avoid chipping.
Tin	Soft, malleable metal often used as a coating for other metals.	Use lower feed rates to prevent galling on the cutter.
Solid Wood	Natural wood, used for its aesthetic and structural properties.	Use sharp, two-flute spiral bits for efficient material removal.
Softwoods	Lighter, less dense wood types like pine or cedar.	Use upcut spirals for chip removal and to prevent fraying.
Hardwoods	Denser woods like oak or maple, known for durability.	Use downcut spirals for a smoother surface finish.
Plywood	Engineered wood made from thin layers of wood veneer.	Use compression cutters to prevent delamination.
MDF	Engineered wood product made by breaking down hardwood or softwood residuals.	Use high-speed steel (HSS) or carbide bits to reduce dust.
Veneered MDF	MDF covered with a thin layer of real wood veneer.	Use downcut spirals for a clean cut that won't tear the veneer.
MDF Laminate	MDF with a plastic laminate coating on one or both sides.	Use carbide-tipped bits for smooth cuts through the laminate layer.
Melamine over agglomerate	A composite material of wood chips bonded together, covered with a melamine layer.	Use a triple-chip grind (TCG) blade for clean cuts without chipping.
Nylon	Durable, synthetic polymer with high strength and flexibility.	Use single or double flute end mills at high speeds to prevent melting
OSB	Oriented strand board, a type of engineered wood similar to particle board.	Use carbide-tipped blades for durability and to avoid wear.
Non-ferrous metals	Metals that do not contain iron in appreciable amounts, like aluminum and brass.	Use lubrication and specific non-ferrous geometry cutters.
Solid polycarbonate	Durable, transparent plastic with high impact resistance.	Use sharp tools and coolants to prevent overheating and melting.
Polyethylene	Flexible, durable plastic used in a wide range of products.	Use sharp, single-flute end mills for clean cuts.
PVC (solid/foamed)	Durable plastic used in construction and piping.	Use a low flute count bit and cooling techniques to prevent melting.
Bakelite	An early plastic made from phenol and formaldehyde, known for its heat resistance.	Use carbide tools at moderate speeds to avoid chipping.
Resins	Synthetic or natural compounds often used in composites and coatings.	Use sharp, high-speed tools for a smooth finish.