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4. BioChromes

m_swatch1 m_swatch2

As a seat developing engineer point of view, I am curious about dye with additional function such as antibacterial to keep deodorant effect.

Looking around our Japanese market, there are many fabric products being indicated as "antibacterial" or "deodorant". I am not sure if those products' antibacterial function added by nature friendly way or not.

In this week, I would like to investigate dye with antibacterial point of view.

Learning outcomes

  • Research skills: the participant has acquired knowledge through references and concept development
  • Technical skills: Master techniques mordanting, dyeing (botanical or bacterial), pigments
  • Process skills: Anyone can go through the workflow and recipes, understand them and reproduce it
  • Final outcome: the participant understands various stages of color as: dye, inks and pigment
  • Originality: Has the research been thought through and elaborated?

Student checklist

  • Include some inspiration: research on artists or projects that on natural/bacterial dyeing, local ingredients and resources
  • Produce at least 1 natural dye with modifiers on fabric
  • Produce 1 ink OR 1 pigment
  • Document your recipes, the ingredients and process and if there have been changes, document your unexpected discoveries
  • Submit some of your swatches to the analog material library of your lab (20cm x 20cm approx)

Suggestion for Kohshi from Anastasia

  • You don't need to work many kinds of dyeing to study, but experience just one dye till the pigment is enough.

  • Better to work with materials that could be actually used in your seat project.

  • Do research about coating with antibacterial, self healing, and UV resistance properties.

Inspired work

Attus photo

Living with The Mother Nature, Ainu people living in Hokkaido has been established useful, durable, and beautiful clothe called "Attus" made of fibers from bark of trees. They are dyed by botanical dyes being considered about anti-bacterial, water proof, and durability reason.

Nibetani Attus

I am very curious about making seat with fabric from trees.

Research

During the discussion with Anastasia, Rico, Kae, and Maki(my wife), following ingredients or plants came out as antibacterial; persimmon tannin, mugwort, chitosan.

Persimmon tannin

Persimmon tannin dyeing has a long history and there has been traditional techniques in Japan from Heian era. This dyeing seems to be an ideal dye for seat fabric with its high sterilizing, odor, and waterproofing effects. There are several studios such as shinobu producing beautiful fabrics.

Mugwort

Mugwort dye

Chitosan

There is an interesting project in Japan to make strong ion bond fo Chitosan and fabric.

Kito-ion fiber

Process and workflow

Dye

Fabric

fabric

Natural fabric - cotton 100% / hemp 100% / jute 100%

Synthetic fabric - polyester 65% cotton 35% / polyester 100%

cotton info hemp info jute info

poly65 info poly100 info

Preparation

(1) Cut fabrics into 50mm X 50mm

(2) Measure the weight
cotton weigh

(3) Wash fabrics with warm (45deg C) water
wash fabrics

(4) Dry all fabrics

Scouring

  • None: prepared not scoured fabrics to compare

  • Soy Milk solution:

    • Soy Milk : Water = 1:1
    • Soak target fabrics for 20min. Dry them all without washing.
  • Soda Ash solution:

    • Weigh 10% of WOF (Weigh of Fabric)
    • For 27g fabric, add 2.7g of soda ash to 200ml warm (45deg C) water. Soak target fabrics for 20min. Dry them all without washing.
    • In my case, I prepared 1L(200ml X 5) warm water so that 13.6g (2.7g X 5) soda ash amount was used.

Mordant

  • None: prepared not mordanted fabrics to compare

  • Alum solution:

    • Weigh the alum 10% of target WOF. Dissolve it in warm (45deg C) water.
  • Iron solution:

    • Prepare enough water and soak the steal plate and add "2 spoons of vinegar", and leave it for half a day to create rust solution.
    • In my case, I left it for 1 day.

Dye Stuff

Mugwort

mugwort photo

weigh of mugwort

Recipe:

  • Fabric(size:50mm X 50mm 22pcs): Cotton 7.4g, Thick Cotton 23.5g, Hemp 13.0g, Jute 14.5g, Strong Jute 15.9g, 65% Polyester 13.1g, Polyester 15.1g, (Total WOF=102.5g)
  • Mugwort 224g (double of Total WOF)
  • Water up to half of mugwort dips half dip mugwort

Check the color of dye every 5 minutes alt text alt text

Persimmon Tannin

describe what you see in this image

"Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."

weekly assignment

Check out the weekly assignment here or login to your NuEval progress and evaluation page.

about your images..delete the tip!!
  1. Remember to credit/reference all your images to their authors. Open source helps us create change faster together, but we all deserve recognition for what we make, design, think, develop.

  2. remember to resize and optimize all your images. You will run out of space and the more data, the more servers, the more cooling systems and energy wasted :) make a choice at every image :)

This image is optimised in size with resolution 72 and passed through tinypng for final optimisation. Remove tips when you don't need them anymore!

get inspired!

Check out and research alumni pages to betetr understand how to document and get inspired

Add your fav alumni's pages as references

References & Inspiration

"Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."

  • Two images side-by-side

describe what you see in this image describe what you see in this image


  • Image reference

centered image with credits/reference
  • Download reference

Links to reference files, PDF, booklets,

about your images..
  1. Remember to credit/reference all your images to their authors. Open source helps us create change faster together, but we all deserve recognition for what we make, design, think, develop.

  2. remember to resize and optimize all your images. You will run out of space and the more data, the more servers, the more cooling systems and energy wasted :) make a choice at every image :) This image is optimised in size with resolution 72 and passed through tinypng for final optimisation.


Tools

Process and workflow

describe what you see in this image

My first step was too..... Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.

Ingredients & Recipes

Prepare this recipe 1 by collecting the ingredients necessary, to be found in the list below:

ingredients
  • xxx gr madder root
  • xxx gr alum
  • xxx gr fabric
  • xxx ml xxx
  • xxx gr xxx

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."

Blue sky

recipe mallow dye on protein and cellulose fibers
  • measure
  • add
  • simmer
  • mix
  • remove
  • strain
  • repeat

Documenting experiments

example from the documentation of Petra Garaiová FabTextiles Barcelona 2021-22

TEST 01 - SILK
Material name Fabric composition Breathability Moisture-wicking abilities Heat retention abilities Stretchability Washing temperatures
Silk Animal fibers - silkworm insect Highly breathable High Low Low Cool or warm
RESULTS

Two ways of showcasing and comparing results with images below

On the left an image of a sample made by xxx with xxx. The dye is more xxx. On the right, an image of a sample made by xxx with xxx and xxx. Here the dye is more xxx.


RESULTS

Recycling the dye into pigments

Ingredients & Recipes

Prepare this recipe 1 by collecting the ingredients necessary, to be found in the list below:

ingredients
  • xxx gr madder root
  • xxx gr alum
  • xxx gr fabric
  • xxx ml xxx
  • xxx gr xxx

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum."

pink pigment

pigment from left-over dye bath
  • measure
  • add
  • simmer
  • mix
  • remove
  • strain
  • repeat

RESULTS

---

Recipes


  1. recipe: banana indigo