3. Circular Open Source Fashion¶
Research and Ideation
This week, we are focusing on circular design through modularity. I’m excited about how I can incorporate this into my practice, where I use yarn to create items like sweaters, dresses, baby outfits, blankets, pillows, and bags. My goal is to minimize waste and create sculptural designs that are easier to store, repair, and reconfigure.
I’ve gathered some images of repeating patterns, tessellations, and interlocking modules that inspired me. Understanding how to design these modules feels encouraging, especially since I excelled in mathematics in school. I never expected to apply geometry in my daily life through crocheting and knitting. I want to draw inspiration from natural tessellations and likely create something more sculptural than just a garment.
Inspiration
Estefania or Nia Cavalie of Fablab Barcelona's idea of Reusable Umbrella was something I really liked. I decided to extend this and create a small housing for the homeless.
Oyedotun Ajewole made a bag by connecting pieces
What should the interlocking pieces be called?
Designing the interlocking pieces was a bit of a puzzle, especially when it came to deciding what to call them. An interlock is formed when two pieces with opposite shapes fit together, similar to how a nut and bolt work. Traditionally, these have been referred to as "male" and "female" pieces, but the terminology raised some questions for me. A Wikipedia page on the subject is titled Gender of connectors and fasteners, which left me wondering—do they mean "gender" or "sex"? It feels like this could use some clarification or perhaps an update. Interestingly, I also stumbled upon a Quora thread discussing the same issue and an article titled A Modest Proposal for Re-Naming Connectors and Fasteners. While the article explores alternatives, it doesn’t suggest clear replacements for the terms. One comment by Mike under the article suggested simply using “plug” and “socket,” as in, “Put your earbud plug into the iPad socket.” I found this approach practical and straightforward, so I decided to adopt it, using "plug-socket" instead of "male-female" for my project.
Process and Workflow
First experiment
We began our 2D design work using grid paper, rulers, and scissors, experimenting with creating interlocking modules that had strong joints. At first, I was a bit confused and had made some interlocking pieces the night before that neither tessellated well nor considered waste reduction. I experimented by cutting small pieces of paper, attempting to shape them into something resembling a flower.
We first created a Rhino sketch of the two options^. The sketch was designed with a knob and slot. I saved this file as an .svg
The process of working with a laser cutter is remarkably straightforward and efficient. You simply upload the design file, attach the document to the machine, and then fine-tune various factors like size, cutting pressure, and material type to suit your needs. This level of customization ensures that the final product aligns perfectly with the original concept. However, for our project, we initially opted for a more hands-on approach by using scissors to cut paper prototypes. This manual method allowed us to explore different shapes and patterns, test our ideas, and make adjustments in real-time. It was a crucial step in refining the design before committing to the laser cutter. After completing this meticulous process, I was able to achieve the final product—a beautifully crafted piece that combines precision and creativity. The effort spent in prototyping with paper truly paid off, as it set the foundation for a flawless execution of the design. Below, you can see the outcome of this thoughtful and intentional process.
Second experiment
Identifying patterns and creating connections is challenging, as I mentioned before. For those facing similar issues, I highly recommend using simple, symmetrical designs like squares, circles, or the infinity symbol. I chose the infinity symbol because it often represents endless love or hope. While mathematics adds excitement, it's the warmth of these interpretations that has made this symbol so popular. It also symbolizes boundless opportunity and is often associated with loyalty. Fabricademy offers me a wonderful chance to explore textiles, and the infinity symbol inspires me as a representation of limitless possibilities. Working with asymmetrical shapes in joins can be time-consuming, so I designed the infinity shape in Adobe Illustrator, a 2D tool I know well. I added male and female connectors and duplicated the pattern to fit the available fabric size by nesting the shapes efficiently.
Using paper prototypes to measure, cut, and test designs is an invaluable step in the creative process. It offers a preview of how the final result will look and function, allowing for precise adjustments without wasting materials or time on errors. This method gave me the confidence to refine every detail of my design and ensure it would be both aesthetically pleasing and practical. After testing and tweaking the paper version, I decided to take the next step and bring my vision to life using the laser cutter. Finally, I created a stunning arm bracelet that perfectly captured my design goals. The precision of the laser cutter brought the intricate patterns to life with remarkable accuracy, transforming my carefully planned prototype into a wearable piece of art. This process not only showcased the value of prototyping but also reaffirmed how digital tools can elevate handmade designs to new levels of sophistication.
Laser cutting
Luckily, I tested the first cut on the laser cutter before proceeding too far—it turned out massive! This unexpected result caught me off guard, especially since I had been careful to triple-check the dimensions beforehand, a lesson I had learned from a similar experience the previous week. Despite my meticulous efforts, it became clear that the issue lay in how the file was prepared for cutting. I discovered that exporting the design as a PDF at a 1:1 scale is essential to ensure the laser cutter interprets the dimensions accurately. This experience underscored the importance of understanding not only the design process but also the technical nuances of working with digital tools. While the oversized cut was a mistake, it became a valuable learning moment, reinforcing the need to verify every step of the workflow to avoid similar errors in the future.
The fabric cut beautifully, so I decided to go with these settings:
Vector
. Speed: 20%
. Power: 100%
. Frequency: 50%
. Thickness: 2mm
And with that, I was ready to proceed!
Construction
I’m especially thankful for the slight Elastane in my fabric! As a complete beginner in laser cutting, I hadn’t realized that cotton would naturally fray. Fortunately, the small amount of Elastane helped the fabric hold together, making it much easier to assemble. Note to self: Always check the material properties after cutting to ensure it’s suitable for use.
I discovered that while creating the beautiful open interlocking pattern, it wasn’t as sturdy as the paper had been structurally. However, I was captivated by the design and the unique pattern it formed on the reverse side. Depending on how it’s worn, it creates two distinct looks on the front and back.
Below you can see my making step by step to a repeat.¶
Final work
Throughout this project, I’ve created a functional and visually appealing piece while gaining valuable insights during the process. The design is steadily evolving, as I’ve been adding elements incrementally to make it fully wearable as a belt. Although it’s still a work in progress, the piece already demonstrates great potential. I am considering recreating it using a thicker, more stable material to enhance the durability and showcase the intricate beauty of the pattern more effectively. This adjustment would not only improve its wearability but also elevate its aesthetic appeal, transforming it into a standout accessory.
The response to my belt has been incredibly inspiring. People I’ve met are consistently amazed by its intricate design and unique craftsmanship. Many have expressed their admiration, with some even asking if they could have one for themselves. It’s rewarding to see how something I created resonates so deeply with others. This experience has also highlighted the incredible potential of the laser cutter machine. Its precision and versatility make it a remarkable tool for bringing detailed and creative ideas to life. With the laser cutter, I was able to achieve a level of accuracy and complexity that would be nearly impossible through traditional methods, transforming a simple concept into a truly stunning accessory.
Seamless Flow: Redefining modular garments
I have been experimenting with creating a seamless garment by moving beyond a simple linear chain design and exploring the use of the infinity symbol (∞) as a foundational element. This shape allows for continuous, interlocking loops that can form a more cohesive and flexible structure. To push the boundaries of my design, I am also experimenting with different fabrics and materials to see how they influence the overall flexibility, durability, and aesthetic of the final piece. My goal is to develop a method where individual modules can be seamlessly joined together to create a complete garment without visible seams. I am particularly excited about the potential of this approach to create versatile, adaptable pieces that maintain both function and style. Through these experiments, I hope to achieve a design that embodies fluidity and elegance.
Laser cutting¶
The design remains the same, but this time I used leather as the fabric. As a result, I had to adjust the laser cutting settings to accommodate the different material.
. Speed: 100%
. Power: 100%
. Frequency: 100%
. Thickness: 2mm
And with that, I was ready to proceed!
Throughout this project, I’ve created a functional and visually appealing piece while learning valuable lessons along the way. The design is gradually evolving, as I’ve been adding elements step by step to make it fully wearable as a crop top shawl. Although it’s still a work in progress, the piece already shows great potential. I’m considering recreating it using a thicker, more stable material to improve its durability and better highlight the intricate beauty of the pattern. This change would not only enhance its wearability but also elevate its aesthetic appeal, turning it into a standout accessory.
Third experiment
Prototyping
I began my exploration of digital construction methods by sketching out my vision of how different pieces could slip together or interlock. Drawing inspiration from quilting surface pattern designs, I explored various interlocking possibilities that could be adapted into my work. These initial sketches helped me visualize the concepts more clearly, and from there, I transitioned into Illustrator, where I experimented with creating individual pieces that could seamlessly connect and slide into each other. This process allowed me to refine my ideas and better understand the technical aspects of digital design in relation to physical assembly.
Laser cutting
For this design I used the Spetrum PS 36 machine:
Bed Size: 36" x 24"
Power: 100
Speed: 100
Frequency: 1000hz
2 Passes
Assembling the garment
Assembling the garment modules was straightforward, but shaping them into a bag proved to be much more difficult. It took a significant amount of time and effort to figure out how to manipulate the identical modules in a way that would seamlessly come together to form the desired shape. I had to experiment with different alignments, folding techniques, and connections, which made the process much more complex than I initially anticipated. Additionally, I had to consider the bag's structure and functionality, ensuring it could hold its shape while still being flexible. Ultimately, it required a great deal of patience, problem-solving, and creativity to achieve the final design.
To enhance the durability and longevity of my modular-patterned handbag, I decided to sew it using a machine to reinforce its structure. By stitching the interlocking pieces together, I ensured they stay securely connected, minimizing the risk of wear and tear over time. I also added a fabric or leather lining to increase the bag's thickness, making it sturdier while preserving its elegant design. To help the bag maintain its shape, I included an inner reinforcement layer like interfacing for added support. For extra strength, I sewed the handles securely to ensure they can handle the weight without breaking. Combining modular assembly with machine stitching made the bag more resilient, long-lasting, and practical for everyday use.
Final result
After completing the bag, I was thrilled with how it turned out. The design came together beautifully, with the modules fitting perfectly and the shape coming to life in a way that was both functional and stylish. The intricate details and the overall structure made the bag not only visually appealing but also practical. When I finished, I stepped back to admire the final result, feeling proud of the effort and creativity that went into it. To my surprise, four clients happened to pass by our shop, and they immediately gravitated toward the bag. They loved it so much that they all expressed interest in getting one for themselves. Their excitement and positive reaction made me feel incredibly happy and validated all the hard work. Even more gratifying was seeing my co-workers, who were equally impressed, expressing their desire to have the same bag. It was a moment of shared pride, and I couldn’t help but smile at how something I created was appreciated by so many people.
Files
All the files for modelling and cutting can be downloaded here:
Useful links