4. BioChromes

Overview

This week, we explored natural dyes, bacterial dyeing, and the process of creating natural inks and pigments. It was a highly collaborative experience, where we donned our white lab coats and experimented together to assemble an extensive palette of natural dye colors. One of the most exciting aspects of this process is its zero-waste nature—leftover dye baths can be preserved and repurposed to create pigments, inks, and even biomaterials. I found the concept of using natural dye-making as a way to reconnect with our environment particularly meaningful. I’m especially fascinated by how the fabrics and colors we crafted this week can embody landscapes, traditional craftsmanship, and cultural heritage. The idea that what we produce and wear can reflect our origins and communities, right down to the fibers, is truly inspiring.

Given my background in crop sciences, I’m eager to explore the plants and soil from my own environment and consider how I can create something that expresses my connection to the place I grew up.

Inspiration

As a crocheter deeply passionate about yarn and its endless possibilities, discovering Handspun Hope in Musanze, Rwanda, is truly inspiring. Their commitment to producing high-quality, eco-friendly yarns dyed with natural, native Rwandan plants resonates deeply with the principles of sustainability and creativity I explore in Fabricademy. Their use of organic Merino wool and blends reflects a harmonious relationship between traditional craftsmanship and environmental consciousness. This approach inspires me to experiment with biochromes, using locally available natural dyes to create vibrant, sustainable textiles for my crochet work. Documenting this journey, I aim to merge traditional dyeing methods with innovative textile practices, bringing a unique cultural and ecological perspective to my creations. Integrating naturally dyed yarns into modular crochet designs not only elevates the artistry of my work but also celebrates the beauty of handcrafted, environmentally friendly materials.

Some key terms/things to know:

Biochromes: any pigment produced by a living organism (bio: living + chromes: colors)

Sources of biochromes:

Animal: insects, mollusks

Botanical: seeds, fruits, leaves, berries, flowers, bark, wood, roots Bacterial

Fungal: mushrooms

Mineral: Oxides, clays, soils

What is the difference between dye, ink, pigment?

Dye, ink, and pigment are all colorants used in various applications, but they differ in their properties and how they interact with materials.

Ink: is a liquid or paste that contains dyes or pigments and is used for writing, printing, and drawing. It is formulated to flow smoothly and dry efficiently, making it suitable for pens, printers, and other writing instruments. Ink can be water-based or oil-based and often includes additives to control viscosity, adhesion, and drying time. Depending on the composition, inks can be either transparent, when made with dyes, or opaque when formulated with pigments. Ink is widely used in publishing, packaging, and artistic applications.

Dye: is a soluble substance that dissolves in water or other solvents and chemically bonds with the material it colors. It penetrates deep into fibers, fabrics, or paper, producing bright and vibrant hues. Dyes are commonly used in textiles, food coloring, and cosmetics. They offer a wide range of colors but tend to fade over time due to exposure to sunlight, washing, or environmental factors. Since dyes form a chemical bond with the material, they are ideal for applications where long-lasting penetration is required.

Some dyes materials to use

• Avocado pits and peels

• Pomegranate

• Flowers

• Old copper

• Madder root

• Alkanet roots

• Turmeric roots or powder (Cúrcuma)

• Hibiscus flowers

• Onion peels

• Campeche wood

• Weld plant

• Annatto seeds

• Indigo

• Purple cabbage

• Autumn Leaves

• Spinach

• Paprika

• Carrots

• Coffee

• Eucaliptus

• Rosemary

• Sage (Salvia)

• Oregano

• Acorn caps

• Acorn of evergreen oak

• Logwood

• Cochineal

• Lichen

• Basil

• Black beans (leave them in water over the night, next day there will be the colored water to dye the fabric)

More: - Flavia Aranha

• Identify plants

• INaturalist

• Mushroom color atlas

• Mushroom for color

Pigment: is an insoluble colorant that does not dissolve in water or solvents but instead remains suspended in a binder or medium. Unlike dyes, pigments sit on the surface of materials and provide excellent coverage and opacity. They are commonly used in paints, plastics, and cosmetics because of their durability, resistance to fading, and ability to withstand harsh environmental conditions. Pigments are ideal for applications that require vibrant colors with long-term stability and protection against wear and tear.

Key Differences Summary:

Feature	Dye	Ink	Pigment
Solubility	Soluble in water/solvent	May contain dyes/pigments	Insoluble in water/solvent
Transparency	Transparent	Depends on composition	Opaque
Surface Bonding	Penetrates and bonds chemically	Adheres to surface via medium	Stays on surface with binders
Durability	Less durable (fades)	Moderate	Highly durable
Typical Use	Fabrics, paper, food coloring	Writing, printing, drawing	Paints, plastics, cosmetics

Bacteria Dye: Some bacteria can actually produce beautiful colors when grown on fabric! There are two types of these bacteria:

Serratia (makes a pink color)

janthinobacterium lividum (makes purple/blue color)

What is Natural Dyeing

Natural Dyeing is the process of using natural dyes that are extracted from natural sources, such as plants, minerals and insects. You can extract beautiful colors from leaves, flowers, bark, roots as well as rocks, fruits and veggies. text

Natural Dyeing

On our first day in the laboratory, I was extremely excited about the natural dyeing course, as it has so many practical applications in everyday life. I felt eager to try every possible experiment related to the course. Below are some of the experiments I attempted.

materials

• Wool of rabbit

• 1500 grams of Marigold flower

• Knife

• 1 l of Water

• 1 PC of Strainer

• 1 Large bowl

• 1 spoon of Baking soda

PROCEDURE

1. Before beginning the natural dyeing process, it is important to ensure that the rabbit wool is thoroughly cleaned and free from any organic debris. This step is crucial as it allows the fibers to absorb the dye evenly, resulting in a more uniform and vibrant color. Any dirt or impurities left in the wool can interfere with the dyeing process and affect the final outcome.

2. Once the wool is clean, the next step is to measure equal weights of flowers and yarns. Maintaining this balance is essential to achieving the desired color intensity without overloading the wool with too much dye or under-dyeing it. Proper measurement helps create consistent results and ensures that the dye bath has the correct concentration of natural pigments.

3. With the materials prepared, the dyeing process begins by adding the flowers to a large dye pot filled with warm water. At this stage, baking soda is also added to the mixture to help adjust the pH level of the water. The addition of baking soda can enhance the extraction of color from the flowers and improve the absorption of the dye by the wool fibers.

4. The dye pot should then be covered with a lid and brought to a gentle simmer, allowing the flowers to steep for about an hour. This step is crucial for releasing the natural pigments from the flowers into the water, creating a rich dye bath. Once the steeping process is complete, the flowers are strained out, leaving behind the infused dye liquid.

5. Next, the pre-soaked wool is added to the prepared dye bath. The wool should be heated on low for approximately an hour while gently stirring the fibers frequently. Stirring helps ensure that the color is absorbed evenly and prevents any patchy or uneven dyeing.

6. After the heating period, the heat is turned off, and the wool is left to steep further in the dye bath until the desired color intensity is achieved. Allowing the wool to sit in the dye bath for a longer period helps deepen the color and achieve a more saturated tone.

7. Finally, the dyed wool is rinsed thoroughly to remove any excess dye and then hung to dry. Proper rinsing ensures that any remaining dye that hasn't bonded with the fibers is washed away, preventing color bleeding. Once fully dried, the wool is ready for use in various crafting projects.

A dyeing transformation

After completing the natural dyeing process using marigold flowers, I observed some fascinating results with the rabbit wool. Initially, when the wool was first introduced into the dye bath, it took on a beautiful, vibrant yellow hue, reflecting the natural color of the marigold petals. The wool appeared bright and lively, showcasing the flower's rich golden pigment.

However, as the wool continued to steep in the dye bath and react with the baking soda, an unexpected transformation occurred. Gradually, the yellow hue shifted into a lovely shade of green. This change likely resulted from the interaction between the marigold’s natural pigments and the alkaline environment created by the baking soda, which influenced the color outcome. The wool fibers absorbed the dye differently over time, leading to this surprising yet delightful color evolution.

Once the desired shade of green was achieved, I carefully rinsed the wool to remove any excess dye and hung it to dry. The final result was a soft, beautifully tinted green wool with a subtle depth and richness. The transformation from yellow to green added a unique touch to the dyeing process, demonstrating the exciting and unpredictable nature of working with natural dyes.

Second method: Hammering

The hammering process in natural dyeing, often used in techniques like leaf printing, plays a crucial role in transferring natural patterns onto fabric or yarn. This step is particularly useful when you want to imprint intricate leaf or flower designs onto the material without the need for harsh chemicals or dyes. When you gently hammer the back of the fabric, you apply even pressure that helps release the natural pigments and oils from the leaves or flowers, leaving an imprint on the fabric.

For dyed materials like yarn or fabric, hammering is a non-invasive, eco-friendly way to create unique patterns. This method not only enhances the texture and visual appeal of the material but also allows for a deeper connection between the fabric and nature. As the hammering process applies pressure to the plant materials, it can also help release additional color, making it an integral part of the design process in natural dyeing.

Incorporating this technique into your dyeing process can significantly elevate the final look of your crocheted or knitted pieces by adding organic, one-of-a-kind patterns that reflect the beauty of the natural world. The hammering process, while simple, introduces an element of artistry and originality to each creation.

Materials

• A leaf

• Hammer

• Papers

• knitted piece of fabric

• Board

PROCEDURE

Step 1: To begin, lay out the boards on a flat surface, ensuring they are positioned comfortably for your work area. These boards will serve as the base for the knitted fabric and leaves, so it’s essential to arrange them properly for easy access and organization.

Step 2: Next, cover the boards with paper towels, which work well as a material to help absorb any moisture and prevent the knitted fabric from sticking to the boards. This step is crucial for creating a clean and smooth surface for the fabric to rest on.

Step 3: Once the boards are covered, place the knitted fabric on top, making sure it is positioned neatly and securely. The fabric should lie flat on the paper towels, ready to have the leaves arranged on top of it for the next step.

Step 4: Carefully lay out the leaves on the knitted fabric, arranging them in a pattern or design of your choice. Take your time with this step, as the placement of the leaves will determine the final imprint on the fabric.

Step 5: After the leaves are arranged, secure them down with tape. This ensures that they stay in place during the next steps and don't shift while you are working. Be sure to tape them down securely to avoid any movement during the hammering process.

Step 6: Once the leaves are taped down, carefully flip over the knitted fabric to prepare for the next stage. Be gentle while flipping to avoid disturbing the placement of the leaves, ensuring that the fabric remains intact and ready for the final step.

Step 7: Finally, it’s time to hammer! Gently tap the back of the knitted fabric with a hammer, applying even pressure to transfer the leaf patterns onto the fabric. This step requires patience, but it will create beautiful, natural prints on the fabric once completed.

Conclusion

In conclusion, this leaf printing technique on knitted fabric is a simple yet effective way to create beautiful, nature-inspired patterns. By carefully arranging leaves on the fabric, securing them in place, and applying pressure through hammering, you can transfer stunning natural imprints onto your knitted pieces. As crocheting and knitting is my daily job, incorporating this extra technique will make a great difference to my products, adding a unique and organic touch that will set them apart in the market. This creative approach allows me to blend the beauty of nature with the art of textile creation, offering customers one-of-a-kind, handcrafted pieces that showcase my passion and skill.

Create pigments and Ink

I extracted pigments from a marigold flower dye bath. These pigments can be used for inks, biomaterials, and oil paints. They blend easily with oil but do not dissolve well in water.

Ingredients

1. Fresh Marigold Flowers – 50 grams (adjust as needed for more pigment)
2. Water – 200 ml (to extract the pigment)
3. Salt – 1 teaspoon (to fix the color and enhance pigment extraction)
4. Vinegar or Lemon Juice – 1 tablespoon (optional, for acidity and color vibrancy)
5. Mordant (optional) – Alum or iron sulfate, 1 teaspoon (if you’re using the pigment for textiles or long-term projects)

Instructions

Step 1: Prepare the Flowers

1. Pluck the petals from 50 grams of fresh marigold flowers and discard stems and leaves.
2. Rinse the petals with water to remove any dirt or debris.

Step 2: Extract the Pigment

1. Place the marigold petals in a saucepan.
2. Add 200 ml of water and 1 teaspoon of salt.
3. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat.
4. Simmer for 30-45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the water takes on a deep yellow or orange color.

Step 3: Strain the Pigment

1. Once the mixture cools slightly, strain it through a fine mesh sieve or cheesecloth to separate the liquid pigment from the petals.
2. Press the petals gently to extract as much pigment as possible.

Step 4: Adjust the Color (Optional)

1. To enhance vibrancy, stir in 1 tablespoon of vinegar or lemon juice while the liquid is still warm.
2. For a deeper tone or to create variations, add a mordant like alum (for brighter yellow) or iron sulfate (for darker shades).

Step 5: Concentrate the Pigment (Optional)

1. To make a more concentrated pigment, return the strained liquid to the heat.
2. Simmer gently until the liquid reduces by half or to your desired intensity.

Step 6: Store or Use the Pigment

1. Let the pigment cool completely.
2. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or freeze for long-term storage.
3. The pigment can be used in natural dyeing, paint-making, or bioplastic projects.

Make an Ink Powder

To make ink powder from the liquid you’ve already prepared, continue heating the liquid on low heat until it thickens into a concentrated paste. Once it reaches a syrup-like consistency, spread the paste onto a non-stick surface such as glass, ceramic, or parchment paper. Allow it to dry completely in a warm, well-ventilated area, avoiding direct sunlight to preserve the pigment quality. Depending on humidity, this drying process may take several hours to a few days. Once fully dry, gently scrape off the hardened residue and grind it into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder. Store the powdered ink in an airtight container, and when ready to use, mix it with water or alcohol to create ink again.

Finally, after four days the powder was dried

Useful links

1. Natural dies in Paris

2. Natural Dyeing with Lungwort