6. Computational Couture

Research & Ideation

Introduction to computational couture

In the world of fashion and textile design, computational couture is an innovative approach that leverages algorithms, parametric design, and digital fabrication to craft unique, customizable pieces. Unlike traditional methods, where physical material constraints and manual skills play a significant role, computational couture harnesses the power of computational design to manipulate shapes, forms, and patterns in a digital environment. These digitally created designs can then be fabricated with precision, pushing boundaries in aesthetics and functionality that are challenging or impossible to achieve through conventional methods.

Inspirations from computational couture pioneers:

When I first came across the term 3D printing, the first thing that came to mind was the work of Iris Van Herpen. She has been my greatest inspiration for 3D printing and laser cutting, motivating me to create a small sample inspired by her collection. Most of my inspiration comes from—

-Iris Van Herpen

-Julia Koerner

-Labeledby

-Buj Studio

What is Parametric Design?

Parametric design is a process where you use parameters (like numbers or sliders) to control and modify the shape or structure of a design. Instead of manually changing the geometry, you build a system where a change in one value automatically updates the entire model.

This approach is especially powerful in tools like Grasshopper for Rhino, where you create a visual script using components (nodes) connected by wires. These components represent operations like “move,” “rotate,” “scale,” or “divide,” and the parameters you set (like distance, angle, or number of divisions) control the outcome.

Why Use Parametric Design?

• Flexibility: You can quickly explore variations by just changing a few numbers.
• Efficiency: It saves time in repetitive tasks—like generating multiple pattern sizes.
• Precision: It allows for exact control over geometry and relationships between elements.
• Customization: Great for personalized designs (e.g., wearable tech, garments, prosthetics).

Example (in Grasshopper):

Imagine you're creating a pattern of flower petals:

• Instead of drawing each petal manually, you use one shape (e.g., an ellipse).
• You rotate copies of it around a circle using a parameter called “number of petals.”
• If you change that number from 5 to 12, the design updates instantly.

Grasshopper with Rhino 3D

Grasshopper is a visual programming language plugin for Rhino 3D, offering a powerful environment for parametric design. This tool allows designers to automate and manipulate complex geometric forms by creating algorithms through a node-based workflow. Rather than manually modeling every detail, designers can use Grasshopper to create rules and parameters that dynamically adjust the design, making it invaluable for computational couture and architectural applications.

Process and workflow

STEP 1

To design a parametric pattern in Rhino with Grasshopper, first, ensure Grasshopper is added to Rhino. In Rhino's top toolbar, navigate to 'Tools,' find 'Grasshopper,' and click on it to launch the interface. Once open, you can start placing components and adjusting parameters to generate your desired pattern. Let me know if you need further assistance with specific patterns or algorithms.

STEP 2

I worked on designing a flower pattern in Grasshopper, drawing on my background in crop sciences and my interest in design. My goal was to create a parametric design that could adapt to various shapes and sizes, making it versatile for different spaces. This process allowed me to experiment with geometry and structure, balancing aesthetics with functionality. Through this approach, I aimed to design a visually appealing flower pattern that is both easy to assemble and practical for real-world application.

STEP 3

STEP 4

I keep working in Grasshopper and Rhino to refine my design and reach the desired outcome. This process enables me to tweak the structure and details until everything fits seamlessly.

STEP 5

STEP 6

STEP 7

STEP 8

3D Printer

There are several types of 3D printing, and the one I used is FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling). This technique works by feeding a thermoplastic filament into a heated nozzle, where it melts and is carefully deposited onto the build platform. As the material cools and solidifies, additional layers are added on top, gradually forming the final structure. This layer-by-layer approach allows for the creation of complex shapes while maintaining strength and precision in the printed object.

How to Export a File from Grasshopper

1. Bake the Geometry:

   • Right-click on the final geometry component in Grasshopper (e.g., Mesh, Surface, or Brep).
   • Choose "Bake" from the context menu.
   • Rhino will ask you to select a layer; choose one and click OK.
   • The geometry will now appear in the Rhino viewport.

2. Export from Rhino:

   • In Rhino, select the baked geometry.
   • Go to File > Export Selected.
   • Choose the file format you need (e.g., .stl for 3D printing, .obj, .dxf, .svg, etc.).
   • Name the file and click Save.
   • Adjust any export settings if prompted, then confirm.

How to export a Gcode

To prepare a G-code file for printing on your Ender 3 using Cura, follow these steps:

1. Load Your 3D Model: Open Cura and import your 3D model file (typically in STL or OBJ format).

2. Configure Printer Settings: Ensure that your printer is correctly set up in Cura. Navigate to Settings > Printer > Manage Printers, and select your Ender 3. If it's not listed, add it by choosing Add a non-networked printer and selecting "Creality Ender 3" from the list.

3. Adjust Print Settings: Set the appropriate print parameters such as layer height, infill density, print speed, and temperature according to your filament's requirements.

4. Slice the Model: Click the "Slice" button. Cura will process the model and generate the corresponding G-code.

5. Save the G-code File: After slicing, click "Save to File" or "Save to Removable Drive" if you have an SD card inserted. Ensure the file is saved with a .gcode extension.

6. Transfer to Printer: Insert the SD card into your Ender 3. Using the printer's interface, navigate to the file and start the print.

Guidance Youtube video

Difference between a Grasshopper file amd an STL file

Feature	Grasshopper File (.gh/.ghx)	STL File (.stl)
Type	Parametric design definition	3D mesh model
Used In	Grasshopper (plugin for Rhino)	3D printing software, slicers, CAD/CAM tools
Content	A visual programming script (nodes and connections)	Triangular mesh of a 3D surface or solid
Editable Parameters	Fully parametric; easy to change dimensions and logic	Not parametric; geometry is fixed
Human Readable	No (but can be inspected in Grasshopper UI)	Sometimes (ASCII STL is readable; Binary STL is not)
Purpose	To generate or manipulate geometry through algorithms	To store/export geometry for fabrication
Requires Baking?	Yes — geometry must be baked into Rhino before export	No — it's already baked/exported geometry

Slicing

3D printers work with GCODE files, which are interpreted by them to create layers of material, which will be stacked and generate the printed 3D model. With the modeling ready, the next step is to send it to a slicing software that will analyze the file to be printed and can configure wall patterns, filling, layer height, temperature, support, speed, among other settings. I used the cura software with the following settings:

Setting	Recommended Value	Notes
Nozzle Temperature	200–210°C	Start at 200°C; increase slightly if layers don’t bond well.
Bed Temperature	60°C	Ensures good adhesion without warping.
Print Speed	50–60 mm/s	Slower speeds (50 mm/s) for better quality; faster for simple prints.
Layer Height	0.12–0.2 mm	Use 0.12 mm for fine detail; 0.2 mm for faster prints.
Retraction	5 mm @ 45 mm/s	Helps prevent stringing; fine-tune depending on the filament.
Infill Density	20%	Adjust based on part strength (10% for decorative, 50%+ for functional).
Cooling Fan	100%	Critical for cooling PLA and improving print quality.

I transferred the .gcode file to the removable card of the Ender 3D printer. Using the display screen, I navigated through the digital interface to access the card and select the file for printing. Once initiated, the nozzle began heating up, and when it reached the required temperature to melt the filament, the extruder fed the filament into the hot end. This prepared the printer for material deposition—in my case, Esun’s PLA+.

The print head (HotEnd) moves down to the build platform and begins extruding the heated filament. As the material is deposited, it quickly cools and solidifies with the assistance of the part cooling fan(s), ensuring proper adhesion and structural integrity. The printer builds the object one layer at a time, carefully following the programmed path. Once a layer is completed, the print head shifts slightly upward along the Z-axis, allowing the next layer to be printed on top. This process repeats continuously until the entire part is fully formed, resulting in a precise and detailed final print.

Final result

I printed a version without the fabric on the table before the final version.

Printing on Fabric

Preparing the print bed

Regardless of the intended goal, the initial step should always be to clean the print bed using a small amount of alcohol and a tissue paper to ensure a smooth surface. When working with fabric, it is essential to secure it properly to the print bed. The fabric may be stretched to varying degrees depending on the desired outcome, but it must always lie completely flat to prevent printing issues. To achieve this, the fabric should be firmly taped to the back of the print bed using paper tape. After securing it, it is important to test whether the fabric remains in place or shifts. If there is any movement, it indicates that the fabric is too loose, which can cause problems such as the nozzle burning the textile or damaging the print quality. Proper attachment and stability are crucial for achieving the best results.

3D Printing

With my G-code file ready and the printer bed properly prepared, I was set to begin printing. Here are the steps I followed:

1. Powering on the printer – I switched on the Ultimaker 2+ using the power button located at the back.

2. Selecting the filament – I chose the filament I wanted to use, ensuring it had a diameter of 2.85 mm, which is required for the Ultimaker.

3. Loading the filament – I positioned the filament spool correctly and inserted the filament into the designated opening.

4. Initiating the filament loading process – On the printer’s digital screen, I selected "Load Filament."

5. Waiting for the correct filament color – I observed the nozzle until the melted material of the correct color was extruded. Since residual material from previous prints is often left in the nozzle, I waited until the new filament fully replaced the old one. Once the color was correct, I confirmed that the loading process was complete.

6. Selecting the material type – I navigated to the "Material" settings on the screen and selected the type of filament I was using—mostly PLA. The printer automatically adjusted the nozzle and print bed temperatures based on my selection.

7. Calibrating the print bed – I accessed the "Maintenance" menu, selected "Build Plate," and followed the guided process to calibrate the nozzle’s position relative to the print bed.

8. Uploading the G-code file – I inserted an SD card to transfer my G-code file to the printer.

9. Starting the print – The object I was printing was a flower design, which I planned to turn into an earring.

When printing PLA on fabric, it is wise to adapt two settings, namely the speed from 100% to 75% (from 60 mm/sec to 45 mm/sec), and the bed temperature from the predefined setting of 60 degrees celcius to 100 degrees celcius. The nozzle temperatue I kept on the predefined setting of 215 degrees celcius. These adaptations help the print quality and make sure that the plastic adheres better to the fabric. So these were the settings I adhered to for all my print work on the Ultimaker.

TIME TO PRINT

RESULT

STL Files

1. Rose printable flower

2. Leaf earings

Useful Links

1. Grasshopper for beginners

2. Grasshopper tutorial

3. 3D Printer Ultimaker