7. BioFabricating Materials¶
Research¶
The history of biomaterial design in fashion is a fascinating journey that spans scientific advancements, creative innovation, and a growing consciousness about sustainability. Biomaterials in fashion involve materials derived from biological sources, including plants, algae, bacteria, and even fungi, and their use in the industry is an evolving story that reflects shifts in both technology and cultural awareness.
1.- Early Beginnings: Natural Materials In ancient times, natural materials like cotton, wool, silk, and leather were the primary materials used for clothing. These materials were valued for their functional properties and availability, and the process of making garments was closely connected to local ecosystems and resources. For instance, silk was cultivated in ancient China, wool was central to European textiles, and cotton was a major material across ancient civilizations in India, Egypt, and the Americas. Leather, made from animal hides, was also a critical material, especially for footwear and protective clothing.
2.- Industrial Revolution and the Rise of Synthetics The Industrial Revolution (18th–19th centuries) introduced synthetic alternatives, most notably rayon, often called "artificial silk," which was derived from cellulose in the late 19th century. By the 20th century, the development of entirely synthetic materials like nylon and polyester revolutionized the fashion industry, allowing mass production of inexpensive, durable, and uniform fabrics.
However, these synthetic materials, made from petrochemicals, led to environmental challenges. Synthetics, while durable, created waste that did not biodegrade, contributing to environmental pollution. By the latter part of the 20th century, concerns over plastic waste and pollution began to shift the conversation toward sustainability and renewability in textiles.
3.- 1980s–2000s: The Emergence of Sustainable Fashion From the 1980s onward, environmental awareness and anti-consumerism movements gained traction. Designers, scientists, and environmental advocates began exploring sustainable fashion alternatives and questioning the environmental impact of synthetic materials. Early initiatives in sustainable fashion often focused on natural, organic fibers (like organic cotton and hemp) and recycled materials. However, the concept of biomaterials—creating textiles and fashion materials from biological sources and processes—was still in its infancy.
4.- 2000s–2010s: Biotechnology Enters the Fashion Scene Advances in biotechnology in the early 2000s opened new doors for fashion. Researchers and designers started experimenting with biomaterials, seeing potential in lab-grown materials as alternatives to traditional textiles. Projects began to surface that used bacteria, fungi, and algae to create fibers and fabrics with the potential to replace environmentally harmful synthetics. Examples include:
Mycelium Leather: Mycelium, the root structure of fungi, emerged as a potential alternative to animal leather. Companies like MycoWorks and Bolt Threads pioneered this field, creating leather-like materials without the need for animal hides or tanning processes, which often involve toxic chemicals. Algae-Based Fibers: Algae, a renewable resource, was explored as a source of both colorants and fibers. For instance, some companies developed biodegradable yarns from algae, creating closed-loop materials that could be returned to the earth after use.
Bacterial Cellulose: Designers began growing materials from bacterial cellulose, which could form thin, paper-like sheets or thicker, leather-like materials. Suzanne Lee, a pioneer in biomaterials, developed a process called “biocouture” to grow garments from kombucha-based bacterial cultures. These innovations were often showcased in concept pieces and avant-garde fashion, making biomaterials a subject of curiosity and excitement in design circles.
5.- 2010s–Present: Biomaterials Enter the Mainstream The last decade has seen biomaterials become a viable option for sustainable fashion, driven by a combination of technological maturity, demand for sustainable practices, and consumer awareness. This era has seen numerous collaborations between biotechnology startups and major fashion brands:
Mushroom Leather Partnerships: Brands like Stella McCartney and Adidas have collaborated with biomaterials companies to create prototype products using mycelium leather. These products have showcased biomaterial potential at major fashion events, bringing them closer to mainstream acceptance. Lab-Grown Silk and Fibers: Companies such as Spiber and Bolt Threads developed lab-grown silk, a protein-based fiber that mimics the qualities of traditional silk without requiring silkworm farming. These innovations provided an alternative to both natural and synthetic fibers with high-performance qualities. Biodegradable Alternatives and Circular Design: Biomaterials that degrade naturally and can be composted have become more popular. Algae-based and bacterial cellulose fabrics, along with bio-based dyes, are reducing the fashion industry’s reliance on harmful chemical processes and synthetic textiles that persist in the environment.
6.- Current and Future Trends Today, biomaterials in fashion are part of a broader movement toward circular design and regenerative practices. Innovations in biomaterials are also fostering interdisciplinary collaboration across fashion, biotechnology, and environmental science, as companies aim to scale up production and create closed-loop systems.
3D Printing with Biomaterials: Some designers are experimenting with 3D-printed fashion using bio-inks derived from algae, mycelium, or other bio-based substances, making garments that are both innovative and sustainable. Personalized and Localized Production: Biotechnology allows for the creation of custom materials with specific properties, potentially reducing the need for resource-intensive manufacturing and transportation.
7.- Challenges and the Road Ahead While biomaterials offer promising solutions, they also face challenges. Scalability, cost, and consumer acceptance remain barriers. Additionally, the production of some biomaterials still involves chemicals or energy-intensive processes that need further refinement to be truly sustainable.
The future of biomaterials in fashion lies in continued innovation, cross-disciplinary research, and the support of sustainable practices by both industry leaders and consumers. The journey of biomaterials in fashion is still unfolding, but it’s clear that they are poised to play a critical role in transforming the industry into one that respects and preserves the planet’s resources.
Inspiration¶
1.- BIOFabricate Biofabricate’s vision is ‘Our material world. Built with biology’. Our unique NYC based team brings insights and expertise that only come from having worked both within biotech startups and the design industries.
* BIOFBRIC - BIOFabric -
2.- PolyBIon by Gi Company driven by the belief that the intersection of biology and technology produces new platforms that can create a civilizational shift.
* Polybion - Polybion -
3.- Etimo Biomaterials At Etimo the transform gastronomic waste, such as coffee grounds, into biodegradable materials for the gastronomic experience.
* Etimo Biomateriales - Etimo -https://etimobiomateriales.com/somos/
4.- Laura Messing In 2020, he founded MOEBIO®, a green company that collaborates with designers, organizations, institutions and entrepreneurs who wish to scale innovative production processes and minimize negative impacts on the environment. Messing is an international reference in the context of art and design in biomaterials and has contributed to the research and development of multiple sustainable projects.
* Polybion - Polybion -
Ingredients & Recipes¶
Prepare this recipe to grow SCOBBY[^1] by collecting the ingredients necessary, to be found in the list below:
* 10 g black tea
* 1500 g water
* 230 g sugar
* 240 mL kombucha starter broth
* Steel pot
* Stirrer
* Thermometer
* Scale
* Plastic molds
* Screen printing frame 20 X 30 cm
* Measure all the ingredients
* Hydrate the gelatin with a little water for at least 10 minutes
* Add the rest of the water and heat, it is important to prevent the temperature from rising above 70 C
* Add glycerin and coffe grounds until the mixture becomes thick
* Add the vinegar and mix
* Pour the mixture onto the screen printing frame and let it dry
Prepare this recipe to bio-plastic (food waste)[^1] by collecting the ingredients necessary, to be found in the list below:
* 8 g coffee grounds
* 20 g gelatin
* 100 g water
* 12 mL glycerin
* 20 mL vinager
* Steel pot
* Stirrer
* Thermometer
* Scale
* Plastic molds
* Screen printing frame 20 X 30 cm
* Measure all the ingredients
* Hydrate the gelatin with a little water for at least 10 minutes
* Add the rest of the water and heat, it is important to prevent the temperature from rising above 70 C
* Add glycerin and coffe grounds until the mixture becomes thick
* Add the vinegar and mix
* Pour the mixture onto the screen printing frame and let it dry
Documenting and comparing experiments¶
Results¶
On the left an image of a sample made by coffe grounds and gelatin. The texture is soft, flexible, shiny and seems resistant. On the right, an image of a sample made by coffe grounds and gelatin, plus 10 g of wata. Here the experiment resulted in a hard and unwieldy material.
On the left an image of a sample made by coffe grounds and gelatin, but the base of the screen printing frame was covered with 5 g of wata and then the mixture was covered with the mixture of coffee grounds and glycerin. The texture is soft, flexible, opaque and seems resistant. On the right, an image of a sample made by coffe grounds and gelatin, plus 10 g of wata. In this case, the base of the screen printing frame was covered with 10 g of wata and then the mixture was covered with the mixture of coffee grounds and glycerin.The texture is soft, not so flexible, opaque and seems more resistant.
The image presents a sheet of dry Scooby. The wet Scooby was approximately 2 cm thick and 20 cm in diameter. The loss of moisture allows a fairly thin, opaque brown, flexible film to be obtained.
Experiments¶
| Material pic | Material name | Polymer | Plastifier | Charge | Observations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
Bioleather | 20 g gelatin | 12 mL glyrerin | 8 g coffee grounds | Laser cut |
 |
Biofoam | 20 g gelatin | 12 mL glycerin | NA | Mix with multipurpose steel hand mixer |
 |
Bioceramic | 20 g gelatin | 12 ml glycerin | 8g eggshell powder | NA |
 |
Biosomething | 40 g Bacterial cellulose | 8 mL glycerin | NA | liquefy the bacterial cellulose and let it dry on a piece of blanket |
Conclusion¶
In conclusion, the development of a gelatin-based biomaterial for design and fashion applications represents a novel approach to creating sustainable, biodegradable alternatives to conventional textiles. Gelatin, derived from collagen, offers unique properties, such as flexibility, moldability, and the ability to form various textures and finishes, making it a versatile foundation for experimental fashion and accessory design. Throughout this work, I successfully developed a material that is not only visually appealing but also eco-friendly, offering a potential solution to the growing demand for sustainable fashion.
By experimenting with various additives, I tailored the material’s properties to enhance durability, texture, and resistance to environmental conditions, making it suitable for garments, accessories, and even temporary installations. This gelatin-based biomaterial exhibits a unique aesthetic that aligns well with avant-garde fashion while responding to the urgent need for reduced environmental impact in the textile industry.
The development of a SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast)-based biomaterial for design and fashion applications offers an exciting and sustainable alternative to traditional textiles. SCOBY, primarily composed of bacterial cellulose, is renewable, biodegradable, and can be cultivated using low-cost materials, making it an eco-friendly choice for the fashion industry. Through this project, I successfully harnessed SCOBY’s naturally unique texture and strength, which, after drying and processing, creates a flexible, leather-like material with a distinctive, organic aesthetic.
The material is lightweight, breathable, and can be dyed with natural pigments, offering vast creative potential in sustainable fashion design. Furthermore, SCOBY’s biodegradability means that end-of-life disposal is less harmful to the environment compared to synthetic materials, contributing to a more circular fashion model.
For future research, I aim to further improve the SCOBY material’s resistance to humidity and wear, as well as explore blending it with other natural fibers to enhance durability. This work highlights SCOBY’s potential not only as a material but also as a medium for fostering sustainable innovation in fashion, supporting the shift toward an environmentally-conscious, circular economy.
for both materilas, future researches will focus on improving the material's durability for longer-term wearability and exploring options to enhance water resistance, as gelatin is naturally hygroscopic. Additionally, the incorporation of natural dyes and patterns may further expand its aesthetic appeal, positioning gelatin-based biomaterials as a viable and innovative resource for sustainable fashion. This work highlights the potential of bio-based materials in reshaping the fashion industry toward a more ethical, sustainable future.