3. Circular Open Source Fashion¶
Research & Ideation¶
This week we explore alternative systems in the fashion industry, such as circular fashion and open value chains. The focus is on creating modular elements that allow for flexible customization and resizing of garments, promoting sustainability.
References & Inspiration¶
For this digital fabrication project, I chose to create a Mexican Huipil, a traditional garment with deep cultural roots. I am drawn to its symbolism, geometric patterns, and its simple yet elegant structure. The Huipil, being a square or rectangular piece, is ideal for exploring digital fabrication techniques and creating repeatable modules that allow for a contemporary reinterpretation of this garment. Through this process, I aim to merge tradition and innovation, preserving its essence while applying new technologies.
Inspiration
For this project, I drew inspiration from origami, a traditional technique that uses paper folding to create three-dimensional shapes. From this concept, I designed a hexagonal relief module that can be repeated and assembled to form a larger structure. The hexagon not only has interesting geometric properties, but its relief design adds texture and volume, allowing for innovative applications in fashion and textiles. This approach combines elements of nature, mathematics, and art to create a versatile and visually appealing design.
Process and workflow¶
My workflow began by experimenting with low-fidelity prototypes to explore different shapes and textures. From these initial tests, I developed my first formal proposal, where I performed laser cutting using felt. This phase allowed me to identify patterns and textures that aligned with my vision. I then integrated the pattern I liked the most into a garment that served as a structural framework for these pieces, achieving a coherent fusion between form and material. 1) Inspiration, 2) 2D Design, 3) 3D Design, 4) Process and material parametrization, and 4) Assembly of the pieces.
2D Design¶
This model 1
First, I created a quick model of a pentagonal module, but I realized that the hexagonal shape forms a grid where this module assembles at three different points and repeats with the next module. From there, I made my initial design in SolidWorks, as it allows me to use tools that simplify the creation of the module. Additionally, when I export the design to DXF, it usually doesn’t present any issues when importing it into SmartCarve, the post-processing software for the laser cutting machine.
Modeling¶
3D Design¶
I did my first tests on paper and then cut them on felt, this material improved the effect, I improved the assembly of the central hexagon because it disassembled very easily.
For my first test, I used a fabric called felt. Before that, I conducted a power test (10%-95%) and speed test (10-100 mm/s) to determine the best range for my material.
I began placing the modules on the mannequin we had designed last week to start visualizing the central pattern of the huipil. I would need to design a frame to hold the modules, and this frame would also need side seams. For its design, I chose to use linear seams for the assembly.
Material¶
Spanish tergal fabric is a highly popular material in garment-making due to its resistance, durability, and ease of handling. It is characterized by being a blend of polyester and cotton, which gives it a soft yet firm texture, along with great resistance to wear and washing. This makes it an excellent choice for fashion projects that require a structured and durable material, such as the one you mentioned.
By cutting the modules with a laser, the precision of the technology is utilized to create exact pieces that can then be easily assembled, while maintaining the integrity of the design. This laser-cutting process also helps seal the fabric's edges, preventing fraying and ensuring a clean, professional finish.
Assembling the modules to form a garment adds a creative and modular dimension to the design, allowing for the creation of unique and customizable pieces. In this case, the choice of Spanish tergal is ideal due to its stability, which facilitates handling at each stage of the process, from cutting to the final assembly. Additionally, its durability ensures that the garment maintains its shape and structure over time, even with constant wear.
Process¶
I made the parameterisation of my final material, but first I prepared my fabric by removing all the wrinkles.
Optimized¶
The process was optimized with several key factors in mind: the durability of the material, the machine's dimensions, and the fabric's size. By carefully considering these elements, the workflow became more efficient while ensuring the final product's quality.
To maximize the fabric's lifespan, adjustments were made to ensure the cutting process minimized stress on the material, enhancing its durability over time. Additionally, the machine's cutting area was fully utilized, ensuring minimal waste and optimal use of the fabric's available width and length.
In the case of the largest garment, a crucial adjustment was made by folding the fabric before cutting. This method allowed the piece to be cut in a way that eliminated the need for a back seam, resulting in a smoother, more seamless finish. This not only improved the garment’s structural integrity but also enhanced its overall appearance by avoiding unnecessary seams. This optimization strategy streamlined the production process while maintaining a high standard of quality and precision in the final product.
To verify and visualize my designs, I used AutoCAD, which I recommend for working with open lines and joining them using the JOIN command. Later, I used Illustrator for a more detailed visualization of my designs.
Assembly¶
With the different materials, I observed their distinct behavior and was able to make improvements based on my observations. The improvements were beneficial but not particularly strong. The strongest assembly was along the sides of the garment, with the linear seams providing the most reinforcement.
Galery¶
This approach combines the traditional qualities of a versatile fabric with the innovation of digital fabrication tools, such as laser cutting, to create contemporary fashion pieces using advanced manufacturing techniques.
