6. Computational Couture¶
Research & Ideation¶
Parametric design in 3D printing for fashion is an innovative approach that uses algorithms and software to generate complex patterns and shapes based on variable parameters. Instead of creating a static design, the designer sets rules and constraints that define how the shapes will behave, allowing characteristics such as scale, density, texture, and geometry to be adjusted as needed. This opens up new possibilities for customization, functionality, and the aesthetics of garments.
Applications
Sculptural and Artistic Garments: Parametric design is often used to create unique and experimental pieces that function as wearable sculptures. Designers like Iris van Herpen and Julia Koerner are known for exploring this approach in haute couture collections.
Customized Accessories: It is also applied in the creation of accessories, such as jewelry, where the shape and fit can be personalized for each client.
Functional Structures and Meshes: For sports or tech garments, parametric design can be used to create meshes with variations in material density, improving ventilation or flexibility in specific areas.
Challenges
Required Technical Knowledge: Parametric design involves using specialized software like Rhinoceros, Grasshopper, or Autodesk Fusion 360, which may require a considerable learning curve.
References & Inspiration¶
Danit Peleg is an Israeli fashion designer known for her pioneering work in using 3D printing to create clothing. She is one of the first designers to demonstrate that it is possible to print entire garments at home, representing a significant shift in the fashion industry. Peleg gained recognition in 2015 when she presented her graduation collection, consisting of five 3D-printed outfits, during her studies at the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design in Israel.
In her work, Peleg uses parametric design software to create patterns and structures that are suitable for 3D printing. She has experimented with flexible materials, such as FilaFlex filament, to achieve comfortable garments with freedom of movement. One of her notable projects is the "Liberty Leading the People" collection, inspired by the famous painting by Eugène Delacroix, where she explored the fusion of classical art and modern technology.
Tools¶
Process and workflow¶
In the workflow, I first started thinking about the software and decided to have my first approach with Grasshopper, as in the classes they had shown us some work with this software, and I was impressed.
Grasshopper is a visual programming add-on for Rhinoceros (or Rhino), a 3D modeling software widely used in industrial design, architecture, engineering, and increasingly, in fashion. Grasshopper allows users to create complex and generative designs through an algorithm-based approach, where rules and parameters are set to generate shapes and patterns instead of manually modeling every detail.
Main Features of Grasshopper Visual Programming Interface: Grasshopper uses a graphical interface where users drag and connect "components" that represent functions, operations, or data inputs. This allows for the creation of algorithms in an intuitive way, without the need to write programming code, although it is possible to integrate languages such as Python or C# to extend its capabilities.
Integration with Plugins: Grasshopper has a large number of plugins developed by the community, such as Kangaroo (for physical simulation), Weaverbird (for mesh modeling), or Galapagos (for evolutionary optimization). This greatly extends its capabilities, enabling physical simulations, structural analysis, and other advanced tasks.
Applications in Fashion¶
Generation of Parametric Patterns: Grasshopper can generate custom patterns for garments or textiles based on body measurements or specific parameters, such as desired stretch or rigidity.
Simulation of Fabrics and Textiles: With plugins like Kangaroo, it is possible to simulate the behavior of textile materials to see how they would perform in the real world. This allows designers to adjust designs before manufacturing.
Creation of Sculptural Structures and Decorative Details: Fashion designers can use Grasshopper to create complex decorative elements, such as jewelry pieces or structural details on garments that would be difficult to model manually.
Design¶
Moduls + Lunch Box¶
This project provides a flat sctructure using Grasshopper for Rhino. It using the Box Lunch plugin to manipulate shapes parametrically.
This tutorial helped me a lot, although I had to make some adaptations: 3D Beast:
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Voronoi¶
The Voronoi tool in Grasshopper is a component that generates patterns based on Voronoi diagrams. It creates a series of cells distributed according to a set of input points, with each cell extending to the nearest point. This allows for the creation of organic shapes and complex structures, making it useful in architectural design, visualization, and modeling. It enables parametric exploration of spatial patterns, enhancing creative design processes.
Voronoi
Moduls¶
To create this pattern, it's necessary to install the 'Box Lunch' plugin.
The following tutorial helped me understand the project, and I used it as a reference: Rhino Grashopper:
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ChatGPT + Python + Grasshopper¶
Using ChatGPT along with Python and Grasshopper offers a powerful combination for computational design, automation, and creating complex geometries more efficiently. This workflow makes the design and programming process more accessible by facilitating both code generation and parameter optimization to achieve unique, precise designs.
This tutorial helped me a lot, although I had to make some adaptations: Daoru Wan:
! Explanation of Parameters:
- p and q control the number of rotations. They determine the "knottiness" of the curve. Different integer combinations of these parameters produce different knot structures.
- radius_major is the radius from the center of the torus to the center of the tube.
- radius_minor is the radius of the tube itself.
- num_points defines the resolution of the curve by setting the number of points used.
- These adjustments are essential for achieving high-quality prints with TPU.
! This code outputs the torus_knot_curve, which you can connect to other components in Grasshopper:
- You can adjust p, q, radius_major, radius_minor, and num_points to modify the shape and complexity of the torus knot.
- This code outputs the torus_knot_curve, which you can connect to other components in Grasshopper.
- You can adjust p, q, radius_major, radius_minor, and num_points to modify the shape and complexity of the torus knot.
Torus Knot in Python
import Rhino.Geometry as rg
import math
# Parameters
p = 3 # Number of rotations around the torus hole
q = 2 # Number of rotations around the torus tube
radius_major = 10 # Radius of the major circle of the torus
radius_minor = 3 # Radius of the minor circle of the torus
num_points = 200 # Number of points in the curve
# Calculate points along the torus knot
points = []
for i in range(num_points):
t = i / num_points * 2 * math.pi
x = (radius_major + radius_minor * math.cos(q * t)) * math.cos(p * t)
y = (radius_major + radius_minor * math.cos(q * t)) * math.sin(p * t)
z = radius_minor * math.sin(q * t)
points.append(rg.Point3d(x, y, z))
# Create a curve through the points
torus_knot_curve = rg.Curve.CreateInterpolatedCurve(points, 3)
# Output the curve
a = torus_knot_curve
Design Rules¶
G code¶
The Ultimaker is an open-source slicing software developed by Ultimaker, designed for preparing 3D models for printing. It converts 3D models into instructions for 3D printers by slicing the model into layers and generating G-code. Cura offers an intuitive interface, customizable print settings, and a variety of pre-configured profiles for different 3D printers. Users can adjust parameters like layer height, print speed, and infill density to optimize their prints. Additionally, Cura supports various filament types and integrates with multiple printer brands.
Procesing¶
The Ender 3 Pro is a popular 3D printer known for its user-friendly design and versatility. It features a printing size of 220 x 220 x 250 mm and an improved hotbed for quicker heating. Ideal for DIY enthusiasts, it offers easy assembly and is compatible with various filament types. The printer's stability and precision make it suitable for both beginners and experienced users looking to create high-quality 3D prints.
Results¶
TPU¶
PLA vs TPU for 3D Printing
| Property | PLA | TPU |
|---|---|---|
| Ease of Printing | Beginner-friendly, low-temperature | Requires slower speeds, direct-drive recommended |
| Flexibility | Rigid and brittle | Highly flexible and elastic |
| Durability | Less durable, heat-sensitive | High durability, impact-resistant |
| Surface Finish | Smooth, glossy, holds details well | Softer surface, slightly less detailed |
| Ideal Applications | Prototypes, models, low-stress parts | Wearables, flexible parts, shock-absorbing components |
3D Models¶
