10. Textile Scaffold¶
Research¶
In week 10 of the Textile Academy, the focus was on exploring the concept of "Textile as Scaffold," which involves using textiles in various forms for supporting structures or creating molds and shapes. This week, the course covered several techniques, including biocomposites, leather molding, fabric formwork, crystallization, and CNC milling, among others. Students were introduced to how textiles can act as a scaffold in different fabrication processes, both digital and biological.
The crystallization process was highlighted, with examples such as copper sulfate, alum, and borax crystals. These experiments involve dissolving minerals in water and allowing crystals to grow on fabrics or other materials, offering an innovative way to create functional materials. Another aspect of the week involved leather molding, where students used digital tools (Rhino + Grasshopper) and CNC milling to create molds, which were then used to shape leather through vacuum forming.
The combination of traditional craft techniques with digital fabrication methods like CNC milling was explored, emphasizing how these tools can be used to create intricate and precise designs, such as molds for shaping materials like leather. The week also included practical guidance on the use of CNC machines, including the process for preparing the material, calibrating the machine, and performing the milling process.
References & Inspiration¶
One of my main inspirations comes from a video of a creator who uses the leather wet molding technique, a practice I find magical. In the video, beautiful waves are created in the leather using just water and vegetable-tanned leather, with no special tools required. This process reveals a vast creative potential, and I'm fascinated by how these stunning results can be achieved with just these materials. The simplicity of the process is what attracts me the most, as it allows me to explore new shapes and textures without complications.
Another source of inspiration for me is a stunning nude leather corset, molded to perfection and styled by @palmiradelvecchio for @lofficielarabia. The unique design of the corset is highlighted by its seamless molding, creating a flawless fit on Elisa's silhouette. The attention to detail and precision in the molding process make this corset a perfect combination of craftsmanship and elegance, demonstrating how leather can be transformed into wearable art. This fusion of form and function inspires me to explore the possibilities of leather as a material in fashion design.
Crystallization¶
Crystallization with copper sulfate (CuSO₄) is a fascinating and relatively simple process to obtain well-formed crystals. In this practice, our colleague Majo helped us a lot and guided us.
Crystallization is a physicochemical process in which a compound in solution transitions to a solid crystalline state. In the case of copper sulfate, its high solubility in hot water and its tendency to form blue crystals upon cooling are utilized.
Materials Needed¶
Prepare this recipe by collecting the ingredients necessary, to be found in the list below:
=== "ingredients"
* Copper sulfate pentahydrate 100gr (CuSO₄·5H₂O).
* Distilled water.
=== "tools"
* Heat source (stove or heater).
* Heat-resistant container.
* String or rod to create a nucleation point or 3D print with fabric.
* A quiet place to let the solution sit.
Steps of the Process¶
Preparation of the saturated solution:
Heat distilled water in a container. Gradually add copper sulfate while stirring until no more dissolves. This indicates the solution has reached its saturation point.
The solution will be placed in a container with the object it is meant to adhere to, ensuring it is left in an optimal environment.
Documenting and comparing experiments¶
RESULTS¶
Leather molding¶
The process of molding leather with water and a mold is called "wet molding" or "leather molding". In this process, the leather is dampened with water to make it more flexible and malleable, and then it is placed over a mold or form to give it the desired shape. Once the leather dries, it retains the shape it acquired. This process is commonly used in the production of items such as boots, belts, wallets, and other leather goods.
Design in Grashopper¶
Mold in CNC¶
The CNC machining process uses a computer-controlled machine to cut, carve, or shape materials such as wood, metal, plastic, or composites. Below is the typical flow of the process for a machine like the Shop-1325:
| Attribute | Details |
|---|---|
| URL | https://www.asiarobotica.com/router-cnc-shop-pro |
| Machine | Asia Robotica shop-1325 |
| Dimensions | 3x1.8x1.7mts |
| Motor Power | 4 HP at 24000 rpm´s |
| Power Supply | 220v/2F/3.5KW |
| Material Fixtures | Clamps |
Data for cutting Triplay with tools¶
46010 CNC Solid Carbide Compression
| Amana Tool CNC Solid Carbide Compression Spiral 46010 | |
|---|---|
| Material | Solid Carbide |
| Coating | Spektra™: Extreme Tool Life Coating |
| Cutting Type | Compression, 3 Flutes |
| Radius | 0.1875" (4.7625mm) |
| Cutter Diameter | 3/8" (9.525mm) |
| Cutting Length | 1-1/8" (25.4mm) |
| Shank Diameter | 3/8" (9.525mm) |
| Overall Length | 3" (76.2mm) |
| Flutes | 3 |
| Applications | Wood, MDF, Melamine, Laminates, and Composite Materials |
| Benefits | Clean cuts on both sides of the material, reduced chipping, precise high-speed cuts, and longer tool life |
46424-K Solid Carbide Spektra™
| CNC Cutter 46424-K | Spektra™ Up-Cut Spiral Ball Nose | |
|---|---|
| Material | Solid Carbide |
| Coating | Spektra™: Enhanced durability, heat resistance, and precision finish. |
| Cutting Type | Up-cut spiral with ball nose for smooth, rounded cuts. |
| Radius | 3/32" (2.38 mm) |
| Cutter Diameter | 3/16" (4.76 mm) |
| Cutting Length | 1/2" (12.7 mm) |
| Shank Diameter | 1/4" (6.35 mm) |
| Overall Length | 2-1/2" (63.5 mm) |
| Flutes | 2 Flutes |
| Applications | Ideal for 3D carving, signmaking, and detailed projects in wood, plastic, and composite materials. |
| Benefits | Smooth cuts, reduced chipping, extended tool life, and precision in curved details. |
| Properties | Description | Supplier | Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Machine | CNC | ASIA ROBOTICA | max 24000 RPM |
| Material | Triplay | - | 30 mm |
| First tool | Tool diameter | - | 9.525mm |
| Depth of pass | How much does the tool cut per pass? | It is specified by the tool supplier, or 50% of the Ø of the tool. | R=4.7625 |
| Stepover | Distance that the tool has between each pass. | Depends on the application | 40% in bas reliefs |
| Spindle speed | How fast is the spindle going to turn? | For the 46010 tool, the recommended spindle speed for materials like wood, MDF, and composites is between 18,000 and 22,000 RPM according to the manufacturer's guidelines | 18000 rpm |
| Feed rate | Feed per tooth or Chip Load | Feed Rate (IPM)=RPM×Number of Flutes×Chip Load | Feed Rate=20,000×3×0.005=300IPM (inches per minute) Feed Rate (mm/min)=300×25.4=7620mm/min |
| Plunge Rate | Forward speed | Plunge Rate=300×0.5=150IPM | Plunge Rate (mm/min)=150×25.4=3810mm/min |
| Amana Tool 46424-K - CNC Machining Parameters | |
|---|---|
| Spindle Speed (RPM) | 16,000 RPM |
| Feed Rate (IPM / mm/min) | 176 IPM / 4470.4 mm/min |
| Plunge Rate (IPM / mm/min) | 88 IPM / 2235.2 mm/min |
| Material Applications | Wood, MDF, Composite Materials |
| Recommended Chip Load | 0.005" - 0.006" per flute |
V carve¶
Lab Safety Guidelines for CNC Machine Use¶
Operating CNC machines presents various risks due to the use of high-speed rotating tools with sharp edges, high-voltage components, and heavy machinery parts. Therefore, safety precautions are crucial.
Appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE):
- Impact-resistant safety goggles: Protects against flying chips during operations.
- Noise protection headset: Necessary as noise levels can reach 70dBA near the machine.
- Cotton Lab coat/overalls: Preferably 100% cotton for comfort and safety.
- No loose accessories: Avoid wearing jewelry or loose garments that could get caught.
- No shorts: Ensure legs are fully covered for protection.
- Safety boots/shoes: Must have toe protection to prevent injuries from falling parts.
- Breathing mask: Wear to protect from inhaling fine dust, especially depending on the material being processed.
Machine Operation Guidelines:
- Operators must remain vigilant and positioned close to the machine while it is in use.
- Gloves should not be worn during machine operation to prevent entanglement.
- Keep the machine’s enclosure closed while the machine is running.
- Only trained personnel are authorized to operate the CNC machine.
- Never place hands near the cutting area while the machine is active.
Dust Control and Safety During Operation:
To prevent inhaling dust, a vacuum extractor should be used to remove dust and chips post-operation. The vacuum is activated via a switch.
Important safety note: Avoid pressing the green round button next to the extractor, as it disables the X-axis when using the rotary add-on. While the vacuum is operating, do not touch grounded surfaces as static electricity can accumulate due to the dust.
Pre-operation Checklist:
Before starting, ensure the following steps are taken:
- Inspect the floor: Make sure it is clear of any chips or debris to avoid slipping hazards.
- Keep a safe distance from the machine: It can move quickly in all directions.
- Be aware that automated machines can start suddenly if the emergency stop is not engaged.
- High-voltage components are used in the machine. Always handle with care.
- Ensure the cutting tool is properly secured and centered before use.
- Position the material properly: Ensure it is fixed in place with no obstructions in the cutting path (e.g., clamps, nails, or large knots).
Runout test:
For this test, a Starrett gauge was used to measure the concentricity of the spindle and cutting tool, both with the spindle off and running at low speed. The gauge, with an accuracy of 0.01 mm, showed no detectable variation during the tests.
Mold process¶
Controller¶
"Zero piece"¶
It refers to the reference position or origin point on the workpiece, used to align the cutting tool before starting the machining process.
Jog¶
The jog controller, or CNC knob, is a device that allows manual control of the CNC machine's axes, moving them precisely in small increments. Its main function is to facilitate the positioning and adjustment of parts or tools without the need to run a full program. The jog speed can be adjusted based on the operator's needs, allowing for fast or precise movements depending on the task at hand.
Axes¶
In a CNC router, the X, Y, and Z axes control movements in three directions:
X Axis: Horizontal movement (left to right). Y Axis: Vertical movement (forward and backward). Z Axis: Depth movement (up and down), allowing cuts at different depths. These axes work together to make precise cuts and shape materials in three dimensions.
Workpiece clamping¶
I previously glued with Resistol 850 and pressed two pieces of recycled wood, these are 1.5 cm plywood.
The material clamping process using clamps is a fundamental part of the machining process on a CNC machine. Clamps are used to secure the workpiece firmly and precisely during cutting operations, ensuring that the material does not move or shift while the machine performs the programmed movements and cuts.
wet molding process¶
Materials: Leather (usually vegetable-tanned leather) Water Resistol (or similar glue) Molds (in the desired shape) Brushes or paintbrushes Gloves (optional for hand protection) Measuring tape or ruler
Process for Shaping Leather with Water, Resistol, and Coconut Oil: - Prepare the Leather: Cut the leather to size and soak it in warm water until it becomes flexible, but not soaking wet.
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Mix Water and Resistol: Combine 70% water with 30% Resistol glue to create a flexible adhesive mixture.
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Apply the Mixture: Brush the water-glue mixture onto the leather and let it absorb for a few minutes.
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Mold the Leather: Place the damp leather onto your mold and adjust it to the desired shape. Use tools if necessary to ensure it fits well.
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Use Coconut Oil: Once the leather has dried and set, apply coconut oil to condition it. This step helps maintain the leather’s flexibility and prevents it from becoming too stiff.
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Dry and Set: Allow the leather to dry completely on the mold, taking 24-48 hours. After drying, remove the leather from the mold.
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Finishing: Apply finishing touches such as sanding edges or dyeing. The coconut oil also helps protect the leather, ensuring it doesn't get damaged by the tools used in the process.
By using coconut oil, the leather remains supple and protected, ensuring it holds its shape and can withstand the shaping process without being damaged by the tools.
5
RESULTS¶
