6. Computational Couture¶
Research & Ideation¶
Parametric Design Definition¶
In general architectural design, all design aspects and their dimensions can be considered as parameters, including location, orientation, shape, solar radiation and so on. The term typically refers to the use of computer algorithms in design in which features, such as building elements and engineering components, are shaped based on algorithmic processes rather than direct manipulation. In this approach, parameters and rules establish the relationship between design intent and design response. This definition is interpreted from Wikipedia, found here.
Research and Inspiration: 3D Printed Panels Used as Conceptual Base for Garment Design¶
These images show an inspiring conceptual approach to 3D printing on fabric, specifically using a hexagonal shape to print onto tulle or mesh, and then building 3D printed panels into an interesting garment designed to highlight the 3D printing, either through where the panels are placed and/or by incorporating light into the garment so that the panels have a visual function.
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Below are more interesting 3D printed fabrics, patterns, and designs from Pinterest.The first image is an interesting approach to designing 3Dprinted panels in shapes that fit together to form aspects of the garment, here shown as shoulder and sleeve pieces and neck/front and top of bodice pieces.
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Photo and design credit: lindafriesencouture; Triangular Fabric from Makerworld linked here
3D Printed Design Project: Sophie Wong's 3D-Printed Jacket Mod with LEDs¶
I have always admired the work of designer Sophie Wong, whose website can be linked here. Sophie freely shares her ideas and processes to inspire and empower fellow makers.On her website, Sophy describes herself as:"Designer / Maker / Artist.I am a multidisciplinary designer specializing in wearable technology and digital fabrication for creative expression. I design and build costumes and fashion pieces inspired by science fiction and visions of the future. I love learning new skills and techniques, and sharing the design and build processes for my projects. I speak at creative technology conferences and maker events, and share ongoing projects on my social media channels and Studio Notes blog.Studio Notes is my bi-weekly blog and newsletter, where I share my creative process and inspirations with the goal of encouraging more making and delight in art."
For this project, I will replicate Sophie's design for her leather coat with areas of 3D-printed mesh and neopixels. Because I am short on time, I am going to use this jacket design for both this module and the Wearables Module. Right now I do not have time to design the 3-D pattern on Grasshopper or Blender. I'll have to do that assignment requirement at a later date. I will use Sophie's design and files to experiment with 3D printing. I plan to make at least one of the 3D printed mesh panels, and then explore lighting it with sewable NeoPixels, connected by soldered wires and a microcontroller. I'll program the lights with a chosen animation effect.
Below are images of the jacket. The seam in the middle is the division between panels. Logically, 3D printed panels need to be made in pieces and put together, in-part based on the size of the 3D printer bed. Designing the panels in an interesting way, meaning potentially not just geometric squares and rectangles, will make for a more dynamic finished product. Sophy has designed interesting shaped holes in the back of her leather jacket, into which she embeds her 3D printed panels with a hexagonal parametric design that is not totally symmetrical. The slightly irregular design of the hexagons will allow for interesting light effects from her NeoPixels.
Sophie details her process on the PDF, linked here.
Project Tutorial and Downloadable Project Files¶
Sophie has created a full tutorial and downloadable files for this project, found here, published in issue 18 of HackSpace Magazine and in her book, Wearable Tech Projects.
3D printed LED Jacket MOD¶
Sophy Wong writes: "This jacket has been adorned with 3D printed translucent hexagons and individually addressable LEDs. I printed the hexagons in PLA directly onto black nylon mesh fabric to create a flexible appliqué that could be sewn to the back of the jacket. The LEDs can be programmed with visual animations and patterns in any color, or made to respond to ambient sound, temperature, or the wearer’s movement. Full tutorial and downloadable files for this project were published in issue 18 of HackSpace Magazine and in my book, Wearable Tech Projects."
Here are her steps from her book titled "Wearable Tech Projects," pages 111-117:
Sophie's project overview:
"In our project, we’ll use a simple pattern of extruded
hexagons, and make two 3D-printed panels that will be sewn to the back of a jacket. We’ll pattern our pieces directly off the jacket so that they fit perfectly.
Translucent filament is a fantastic diffuser for LEDs, so we’ll add some lights to the back of the jacket. We’ll control our LEDs with a Circuit Playground Express, using its on-board buttons to switch
between animations. If you’ve never programmed a microcontroller before, the Circuit Playground Express
(CPX) is the perfect place to start. Coding the CPX is simple with MakeCode, an online block-based visual programming tool from Microsoft. The finished piece will be a programmable, 3D-printed LED jacket, fit for your next cyberpunk adventure!"
Experiment with Printing with Fabric¶
Advice from Sophy:
Whether using a Gcode script or pausing manually, do some research on how to pause a print with your specific slicer and printer.
1) Start by doing some test pieces and dialing in your settings for 3D printing on the net fabric.
2) Use a slicer program to convert our jacket-panel-3D.stl file
(from hsmag.cc/book2-assets) into Gcode for your printer. We used Cura, which provides an option to automatically pause the print after a specified layer.
(in Extensions > Post Processing > Modify Gcode >
Pause At Height). The script also moves the printer head out of the way for easy access.
3) Set the standby and resume temperatures to match your print
temperature, so that the printer can resume quickly without needing to reheat.
Note: modifying Gcode
is an advanced technique, and can cause damage to the printer if done incorrectly. Proceed with caution, and do not attempt without full understanding of the
modifications you are making.
Instructions continue on page 113 of the PDF
Fabric Choices for 3D Printing¶
To create a strong bond, I need to use a mess fabric, which can include synthetic netting, mesh, or tulle fabric. These fabrics have large openings between their yarns that allow the 3D-printed layers to fuse together around them.The best fabrics for a strong bond have open holes and include: 1) Polyester tulle 2) Nylon mesh 3) Power mesh / athletic mesh
Printing Process Overview¶
The model is flat on the bottom.
Prepare the machine and gcode to be 3D printed.
Key settings include:
1) Layer Height: 0.2 mm
2) Bottom Layers: 3–5 layers (0.6–1.0 mm)
3) Infill: 15–25% (gyroid or grid)
4) Speed: first layers: 30–40 mm/s
Insert a Pause
In Bambu Studio:
Slice the model
Switch to Preview
Move the layer slider just after the base layers are done
Right-click the layer
Select Add Pause for when mesh is added
Printing Process¶
Start Printing
When printer pauses:
Lay mesh flat over the printed base and pull gently so it’s taut with no folds or bubbles.
Secure the edges with painter’s tape and potentially small magnets.
Resume Printing
Remove and Finish
Let cool completely
Gently peel from bed
Trim excess mesh with scissors or rotary cutter
3D Printing Steps on a Bambu Printer¶
1) Printing on fabric is experimental, so it might be best to do tests to dial in the settings on the printer.
1) Import the file, hit preview, allow the sofware to slice the print
2) Download the STL file
3) Print the first few layers directly on the printer bed, as you’d normally do.
4) Pause your print and lay the fabric down over the already printed layers. With the fabric held in place using
tape or clips, resume the print so molten plastic locks through the mesh holes and let it finish.
5) When complete, the fabric will be sandwiched into the base of your print, connecting the separate shapes of your pattern together into a flexible panel.
6) For this project, we recommend laying the fabric down after just one layer, so that the finished panel
will be as flat on the underside as possible. You can start with our hexagon model, but you may need to rearrange the hexagons in a 3D modelling program
to fit your jacket.
7) You can create your own model, or search on Thingiverse.com or MyMiniFactory.com for other models designed for printing onto fabric. It is well worth doing a web search before starting, to get a better idea of the process.
8) If you’re new to 3D printing, practice by printing regular models (not on
fabric), to familiarise yourself with your printer and the troubleshooting required for great results with this medium.
9) Choose a jacket with a lining so that the wiring can be completely hidden and protected during wear. You’ll need a pocket for housing the CPX and the battery pack. Black faux leather is easy to cut holes in, won’t fray, and looks positively Daft Punk!
3D Printing on Mesh using Sophy Wong's Design and Files¶
I made two fabric samples/swatches, partly because I had two different weights of tulle to work with. The white tulle is quite stiff and relatively sturdy, while the black mesh is thinner and more flimsy. I wanted to put two layers of the black together, but when trying to lay even the first layer of tulle on the 3D printer bed, it didn't want to lay flat. I used a combination of magnets and tape to hold it down. Two layers would have been much too hard to control, especially for these first samples.
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Manual G-code Pause for Adding Tulle (Bambu-Compatible)
Insert this right after the last solid base layer in the G-code:
; ==== PAUSE FOR TULLE INSERT ==== M400 ; Finish all moves G91 ; Relative positioning G1 Z10 F300 ; Lift nozzle 10mm G90 ; Absolute positioning G1 X10 Y10 F6000 ; Move nozzle to front-left M0 Insert tulle, secure edges, then resume ; ==== RESUME PRINT ====
Additional Information for Learning about Computational Couture¶
Check out and research alumni pages to better understand how to document and get inspired
* Blender research and tutorials - [Erika Mirzoyan - FabLab Armenia](https://class.textile-academy.org/2025/erika-mirzoyan/assignments/week06/#creating-my-design-step-by-step-process-with-3ds-max-and-blender)
* Documentation grasshopper - [Ola Muhanna - CPF](https://class.textile-academy.org/2025/ola-muhanna/assignments/week06/#grasshopper-research-stained-glass-inspiration)
* Dual filament 3d print research - [Stephanie Johnson - TextileLab Amsterdam](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/stephanie-johnson/assignments/week07/#r-e-s-u-l-t_1)
* 3d print on fabric - [Zahia Albakri - CPF Makerspace](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/zahia-albakri/Projects/week07/#final-results)
* 3d print on fabric - [Aslı Aydın Aksan - TextileLab Amsterdam](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/asli-aksan/assignments/week07/#research-ideation)
* Visaulisations & Ideation - [Dinesh Kumar - FabLab Bcn](https://class.textile-academy.org/2023/dineshkumar-gunasekaran/1.Assignments/week07/)
Videos¶
learn how to add video tutorials, inspirational videos and movies etc
From Vimeo¶
Sound Waves from George Gally (Radarboy) on Vimeo.
From Youtube¶
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