Process

Ideation & sketches

Early were used to think through inital silhouttes and identify interchangeable parts.

The Commercial Pattern Archive is a great resource for understanding the pattern shapes used during different time period and narrow down a specific date range that will be used as a reference.

Fashion illustrations of the time period often depict elongated versions of the garment. Creating prototypes in CLO3D will allow me to translate the period silhouttes to a the body of a fit model.

Design & Fabrication

For this project, I am limiting myself to open source software that I can use in the classes I teach.

Patterning

This week, I taught myself how to use Affinity which I am using to create the svg pattern files for the lasercutter. I established the dimensions of the pattern pieces with the grey rectangles and then use the dashed line feature to create the series of adjustable slits used to assemble and alter the sizing of the pattern. As I move forward with the patterning, I will be looking for ways to generate the lasercut files in CLO3D.

For this week's prototype, I used Swedish Tracing Paper that I had on hand. I created a half scale mockup to save material and work within the limitations of the Xtool lasercutter I have in my home studio. All of the files that I brought into Xtool needed to be resized. I also needed to go back into Affinity an apply "Expand Stroke" for Xtool read them as seperate lines. If I continue this approach with the pattern cutting, I want to look into what can be done in Affinity to ensure the sizing in correct.

Closures

For this week's prototype, I revisited the rivets that I created on an earlier assignment. I reset the rivets in Tinkercad so that they matched the 1/2" increments of of the slits on the pattern.

I 3D printed the rivets using the red PLA onto a stiff tulle. The printer seemed to have trouble with the strips oriended vertically, which something I will take into consideration for the next prototype. Ultimately, I hope to mold these out of bioresin.

The rivet tape concept worked well for relatively quick assembly and is something that I will consider for future iterations. The tulle I used is too stiff and would be uncomfortable to wear. I plan to source some lighter weight tulle or cotton gauze ribbon for future tests.

Patterns & Textures

My focus this week was to clarify the project, so I focused on the patterning/modular assembly. I did teach myself some Blender this week and I hope to have some of these experiments to show at the midterm evaluation.

Prototypes

Below are images of the initial prototype in process. The Swedish Tracking paper is too stiff in half scale, so it is boxier than I want it to be. I have ordered some other options for the next round.

Mentoring notes

12.15: Focus on a single garment / Build in more experimentation (Oscar)

1.13: Interest in modular design/biomaterials is too vague / Clarify the aesthetic focus. (Claudia/Gunjan)

1.20: Concept work is posted in wrong place. Copy/paste info from Week 13 into Development/Concept section.(Nuria)

Half-fabrication files

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1. Test file: 3d modelling test ↩