6. Computational Couture¶

Research & Ideation¶

This week, my inspiration comes from forces we can’t see but constantly feel, the quiet choreography of magnetic fields, gravity, and the mysterious world of quantum physics.

I’ve always been fascinated by how invisible energies shape our world: the pull that keeps our feet on Earth, the unseen lines that guide a compass, and the strange rules that govern matter at the smallest scales. These forces are not just physical, they’re poetic. They hold everything together, from galaxies to atoms to the threads in our clothes. Scientists often describe magnetism as the geometry of invisible lines, an image that resonates deeply with computational design, where code reveals the unseen patterns that structure our world.

This week, my goal is to translate these invisible forces into form, exploring parametric patterns that echo magnetic fields, and digital simulations that mimic the pull of gravity or attraction. I’m fascinated by the idea that code itself can act like gravity, an unseen framework that draws matter, motion, and meaning into balance.

Iris Van Herpen¶

Iris Van Herpen frequently references invisible energies in her work, translating electromagnetic patterns into flowing couture structures. Her Magnetic Motion collection (2014) explored the tension between nature and technology through 3D-printed garments shaped by magnetic simulation.

Computational Design Basics¶

Computational couture sits at the intersection of fashion design and digital computation - where garments are generated, simulated, or optimised through algorithms, parametric design, and digital fabrication tools.

In essence:

You’re not just designing clothes - you’re designing systems that can generate endless variations:
customised, zero-waste, and often sculptural.

The Key Shift¶

Traditional Fashion	Computational Couture
sketch → drape → pattern → cut	algorithm → parameter → simulation → fabrication

Core Concepts¶

Concept	Description	Example
Parametric Design	Design defined by adjustable parameters	Change waist radius → skirt pattern updates instantly
Body Scan / Digital Mannequin	Base geometry for garment fitting	Scan or use MakeHuman avatar
Zero Waste Patterning	Pattern logic that minimises offcuts	Modular petals, spirals, tessellations
Kerfing / Folding Patterns	Creating flexibility with cuts	Laser-cut neoprene “hinges”
Modularity	Repeatable components that assemble	Petal collars, scale-like structures
Flattening / Unrolling	Converting 3D to 2D for fabrication	Unroll a sleeve from a parametric shell
Simulation	Testing drape, fit, or material behaviour digitally	Kangaroo physics (Grasshopper plugin)

Key Designers & Labs¶

Designer / Lab	What They’re Known For
Iris van Herpen	Pioneering computational couture - 3D-printed dresses, algorithmic pleating
Anouk Wipprecht	Fashion + robotics + interaction (dresses that sense proximity, emotion)
Julia Körner	Digital couture meets architecture, advanced 3D printing

Core Ideas¶

Generating the system
Parametric thinking
Algorithmic logic - if you want to bake a cake, the recipe is the algorithm
Generative design - exploring growth, emergence, and complexity

Think: fractals, and the question “How do we measure the length of a coast?”

Grasshopper / Rhino Workflow Notes¶

Search for relevant plugins to extend functionality
When you change parameters, the Rhino object updates in real time
When you bake an object, it becomes fixed (no longer parametric)
You can bake again to create updated versions
Baked objects can’t be changed in Grasshopper
Unbaked geometry stays live and responsive
Press line → drag left to right
Moving things in Rhino affects Grasshopper; you can adjust from either environment

my tool box

Design → Slice → Print → Learn

These are the tools and tutorials I actually use. Download them. Watch them. You can build this stuff too.

Rhino + Grasshopper

Parametric 3D design. Build rules, not just shapes. Used for computational couture, kerf hinges, zero-waste pattern logic.

⬇ Download Rhino

Grasshopper comes bundled.

PrusaSlicer

Slices your 3D model into layers and creates gcode for the printer. Lets you control infill, supports, and print quality.

⬇ Download PrusaSlicer

Free. Works with most FDM printers.

Rhino Learn

Short official mini-tutorials on Rhino + Grasshopper. Great for “what button does what”.

▶ Watch Rhino Learn

Grasshopper: Start Here

Intro by David Rutten (the actual creator). Explains parameters, data flow, why Grasshopper feels “alive”.

▶ Open Getting Started

YouTube Tutorials

How to use Image Sampler Rhino Grasshopper Tutorial:

Watch these and you can start making weird geometry on day one.

Typical pipeline: Grasshopper → export STL → PrusaSlicer → 3D print → photograph → show

How to 3D Print (Prusa i3 MK3S)¶

The printer I used is the Prusa MK3S.

Turn the printer on (power button on the back).
Unload filament – check what type is loaded.
Insert the SD card (it fits backwards).
Choose filament type.
Cut the tip of the new filament at a 45° angle before loading.
Place the filament roll so it feeds from above.

Wrong

Right

Load filament via the menu → Load Filament.
The printer will heat up and pull the new filament in.

Prepare the print bed.
Clean off old filament and wipe the bed with the spray provided.
Start printing.
Select Print from SD, choose your file, and watch the first layer.

If you’re printing PET, please close the doors.
For PLA, leave the doors open.

How to 3D Print (Prusa CoreOne Workflow)¶

Slice Your Model
Export your design as an .STL, open it in PrusaSlicer, check scale, supports, and infill, then slice and save the G-code to your SD card.
Prepare the Printer
Turn on the printer, clean the bed, insert the hard drive, and make sure the correct filament is loaded.
Load or Change Filament
Unload old filament, cut the new tip at a 45° angle, load it, and confirm once the right color extrudes.
Start the Print
Select Print from card, wait for the nozzle and bed to heat, and make sure the first layer sticks smoothly.
After Printing
Wait for the bed to cool, flex the plate to remove the print, trim any strings, and clean the surface for the next job.

Quick flow:
Grasshopper → STL → PrusaSlicer → G-code → Print → Cool → Done!

Example: Chainmail using Prusa CoreOne¶

Example: Using Prusa i3 Mk3s¶

Magnetic field pattern¶

Magnetic Field Pattern → 3D Print

What this is:
A magnetic field pattern generated in Grasshopper - curved “flow lines” reacting to attractor points like magnetic forces in motion. The piece was extruded, printed, and fused with a mesh insert to test layered material integration.

Define attractor points
I placed several points in Rhino, each acting as a magnetic pole. In Grasshopper, those points generate directional vector fields that control curve flow.
Build the vector field
Using vector components, each attractor emits forces that pull or push nearby lines. Combining them forms dynamic swirls and interactions across the surface.
Generate field lines
Streamlines were created from the vector field, producing flowing patterns that visually map invisible magnetic energy.
Bake into Rhino
Once satisfied, I baked the Grasshopper definition into Rhino to convert the parametric preview into editable geometry.
Extrude curves
I selected all baked curves and ran ExtrudeCrv with a distance of 2 mm. This created a shallow relief pattern suitable for 3D printing or embossing.
Prepare for print
The extruded geometry was exported as .STL and opened in PrusaSlicer. I used the Prusa i3 MK3S printer with a two-tone PLA filament to highlight the field pattern.
Pause to embed mesh
I paused the print after the first layer to place a fine mesh textile over the print bed. Once aligned, printing resumed - the next layers fused directly through the mesh, embedding it into the print. This created a composite surface of filament + textile, reinforcing the idea of “field lines crossing material boundaries.”
Print outcome
The total print time was approximately 45 minutes. The 2 mm-thick pattern printed cleanly, capturing the fluid geometry while bonding to the embedded mesh.

The final piece visualises magnetic energy as a tactile topography - algorithmically generated, physically layered, and materially hybrid.

to

Printer Settings Snapshot (Prusa i3 MK3S)¶

Setting	Description
Printer	Prusa i3 MK3S
Filament	Two-tone PLA Silk
Layer Height	0.20 mm
Infill	15%
Supports	None
Extrusion Height	2 mm
Print Time	~45 min
Special Step	Paused after layer 1 to embed textile mesh

Sliced in PrusaSlicer with visual preview enabled for mesh alignment.

Parametric Earring¶

Parametric Earring: From Grasshopper to 3D Print

Start with a base curve in Rhino
I drew a simple ring-shaped profile in Rhino — basically the outline of the earring. This 2D curve is the geometry that Grasshopper will manipulate.
Send the curve into Grasshopper
In Grasshopper I referenced that Rhino curve. Then I built a parametric definition based on the “Parametric Ring Design in Grasshopper (Weaverbird)” tutorial. The definition controls things like number of segments, radius, fillet/smooth amount, and thickness.
Shape it parametrically
I used sliders to control how wide the ring is and how many panels it has. I added twist and rotation so it’s not flat. Then I used Weaverbird to smooth and round the mesh until it became a clean, watertight 3D form.
Bake into Rhino
When I liked the shape, I baked it. Baking turns the Grasshopper preview into real Rhino geometry. In Rhino I checked: it’s closed (no holes), thick enough to print, and sized correctly to wear.
Export to STL
I exported the baked ring as an .stl file for 3D printing.
Slice in PrusaSlicer
I opened the STL in PrusaSlicer and set: Printer = Prusa CORE One 0.4 nozzle, Filament = PLA Silk, Layer height = 0.2 mm, Supports = build plate only, Infill = 40%. The orange lines in the preview are the print path, the green is support.
Export G-code
I checked the layer preview, then exported G-code to the SD card. G-code is what the printer actually runs.
Ready to print
Load filament, put in the SD card, choose the file on the Prusa, and start the print.

Summary: Grasshopper → Bake to Rhino → STL → PrusaSlicer → G-code → Print.

![Earring Print Preview](../../images/week06/earringprusa.jpg)

Reflection¶

In the future, I would like to experiment with more flexible materials, as the magnetic field pattern would work beautifully as a stretchable surface.
Testing with elastic or TPU filaments could allow the pattern to deform and move - making the field lines dynamic rather than static.
Exploring new materials would also reveal how magnetism-inspired geometry behaves when it can bend, flex, and adapt to the body.