7. BioFabricating Materials

Suzanne Lee: "Why Bio-fabrication is the next industrial revolution."

Bio-fabrication fundamentally changes how we make materials, products, and even buildings. Instead of relying on extractive, polluting, and wasteful manufacturing methods, biofabrication uses living organisms (like bacteria, yeast, fungi, and algae) to grow materials sustainably.

“In the future, we won’t manufacture - we’ll grow what we need. Biology is the next manufacturing platform.”

Plant-based fibers

Inspiration

1. Paula Ulargui - Works with natural fibers and living materials that evolve over time, blurring the line between fashion and nature. Her pieces often incorporate plants or biodegradable components, emphasising fashion as a living ecosystem.
2. Rootfull – Zena Holloway Uses plant roots to grow sculptural textiles. Through a process of biofabrication, she guides root systems into intricate forms, demonstrating how biology can be a collaborative design partner.
3. Raewyn Hildreth Experiments with woven and sculptural structures made from plant-based or biodegradable fibers. Her work highlights texture, pattern, and the tactile qualities of organic materials, connecting traditional craft with future-facing biomaterials.

Cat Tail & Milk Casein Recipes

Cat Tail (Plant Fibre Experiment)

Inspiration
Exploring cattail plant fibres as a natural, glue-bonded bio-textile - forming rolled, layered materials through coating and dehydration.

Materials - Cat tail leaves or seed heads
- White glue (PVA or natural adhesive)
- Knife or blade
- Dehydrator

Method 1. Coat cat tail strips in a thin, even layer of white glue.
2. Form a small “candy roll” shape and wrap tightly.
3. Continue to measure, coat, and wrap — the first layer must be smooth, no folds.
4. Once fully rolled, place in the dehydrator until dry.
5. Using a knife, carefully slice down to the stem and peel away slowly.
6. Roll up again with glue, ensuring no folds or creases.
7. Dehydrate a second time until stable and flexible.

Notes - The first coating layer is crucial for a smooth finish.
- Turning or re-rolling during dehydration improves uniformity.
- Produces a natural, plant-based, semi-translucent material.

---

Milk Casein (Bio-Plastic / Protein Polymer)

Inspiration
Transforming milk protein into a malleable bio-polymer - historically known as casein plastic. Similar to paneer or cheese-making.

Materials - 500 ml milk (fat level determines method)
- Vinegar or lemon juice (acidic agent)
- Optional: alkali such as sodium carbonate (for high-fat milk)
- Filter cloth or fine sieve
- Bowl, pot, and stirring spoon

Method (Low-Fat Milk) 1. Put milk gently into a bowl.
2. Add vinegar or lemon juice and stir slowly.
3. The milk will separate into curds and whey.
4. Once clumped, filter through a sieve or cloth.
5. Collect the casein curd (bottom paste).
6. Knead gently to form a malleable paste.
7. Roll flat or press into a mould; dry for several days.

Method (Full-Fat Milk) 1. Add a small amount of sodium carbonate (alkali) to the milk.
2. Adjust pH to around 10 - this helps the casein precipitate.
3. Then add vinegar or lemon juice to trigger separation.
4. Filter as before, collecting curds and whey.
5. Retain the malleable liquid layer - useful for coating or casting.

Results & Observations - The top layer becomes whey; the bottom layer forms casein paste.
- The texture resembles soft paneer before drying.
- Rich in minerals; can be rolled, pressed, or cast.
- Once dried, forms a tough, natural plastic-like sheet.

References - Documentation: Marieke & Loes - Bio Scoring System, Waag TextileLab
- Casein can also be purchased or made from milk waste streams.

Cat Tail process:

Our Cat Tail playground

Bio - plastics

Inspiration

1. Carolynn Raff - Experiments with bioplastics made from natural pigments and algae, creating colourful and translucent materials inspired by organic textures.
2. Scarlett Yang - Combines digital design with biodegradable materials such as algae and silk, producing garments that naturally decompose and highlight circular design.
3. Beatriz Sandini - Focuses on materials grown from biological processes, exploring texture and colour through microbial and algae-based films.
4. Violane Buet - Works with seaweed as a textile, transforming marine materials into sculptural, woven-like surfaces that merge craft and ecology.
5. TP Sea - Develops sustainable biomaterials derived from seaweed and ocean waste, exploring how marine resources can replace plastics in design.

Bio Materials - Waag TextileLab Recipes

BIO RESIN

Recipe
- 48 g gelatin
- 8 g glycerine
- 240 ml water
- pigment (optional)

Tools
- Pot, stove, spoons
- Scale, moulds, jars for mixing

How To
1. Warm up the water in a pot (plain or dyed).
2. Add plasticiser - glycerine bonds with gelatin (your polymer).
3. Mix gently until smooth.
4. Simmer 10–15 min at 85°C max (or 120°C to evaporate faster).
5. Prepare moulds and surfaces.
6. If making multiple colours, prepare them now.
7. Once syrup-like, pour slowly into moulds without trapping air.
8. Let dry in a ventilated room - turning helps prevent mould but may deform.

---

BIO FOAM

Recipe - 48 g gelatin
- 8 g glycerine
- 240 ml water
- pigment (optional)

Tools
- Pot, stove, spoons
- Whisk or foamer
- Scale, moulds, jars for mixing

How To
1. Warm up water (plain or dyed).
2. Add glycerine (plasticiser).
3. Add gelatin (polymer).
4. Mix gently until smooth.
5. Add 1 tbsp dishwashing soap to create foam.
6. Boil 15–20 min (86°C max), whisking constantly.
7. Prepare moulds.
8. Pour the syrupy mix slowly without inglobating air.
9. Let dry in ventilated area, turning if needed.

---

BIO FOIL (GELATINE)

Recipe - 48 g gelatin
- 8 g glycerine
- 240 ml water
- pigment (optional)

Tools
- Pot, stove, spoons
- Scale, moulds, jars

How To
1. Warm water in pot (plain or dyed).
2. Add glycerine.
3. Add gelatin.
4. Mix until smooth.
5. Boil for 20 min (100°C).
6. Prepare moulds.
7. Colour batches if needed.
8. Pour slowly into moulds.
9. Dry in ventilated room, keep in mould for smooth finish.

---

BIO FOIL (AGAR & GELATINE)

Recipe - 3 g agar
- 20 g gelatin
- 5 g glycerine
- 500 ml water
- pigment (optional)

Tools
- Pot, stove, spoons
- Scale, moulds, jars

How To
1. Warm up water (plain or dyed).
2. Add glycerine.
3. Add agar and gelatin.
4. Mix until smooth - agar dissolves slowly; heat gently at 60°C if needed.
5. Simmer 20 min (80°C max).
6. Prepare moulds.
7. Pour syrup-like mix slowly.
8. Dry in ventilated room, keep in mould for smooth surface.

---

BIO SILICONE

Recipe - 48 g gelatin
- 8 g glycerine
- 240 ml water
- pigment (optional)

Tools
- Pot, stove, spoons
- Scale, moulds, jars

How To
1. Warm up water in pot.
2. Add glycerine (more gives elastic texture).
3. Add gelatin.
4. Mix until smooth.
5. Simmer 15–20 min (86°C max).
6. Prepare moulds.
7. Pour syrupy mix slowly, avoiding air bubbles.
8. Let dry in ventilated room, turning occasionally.

---

BIO FOIL (AGAR)

Recipe - 4 g agar
- 3 g glycerine
- 400 ml water
- pigment (optional)

Tools
- Pot, stove, spoons
- Scale, moulds, jars

How To
1. Warm up water.
2. Add glycerine.
3. Add agar and mix gently until dissolved.
4. Simmer 20 min (80°C max).
5. Prepare moulds.
6. Pour mix slowly to avoid air.
7. Dry in a ventilated room - keep in mould for a smooth finish.

Pigments & Additives

Type	Ingredient	Effect
Natural dye	Oak gall, Cochineal, Ochre	Warm earth tones
Mineral	Charcoal, clay, Gold mica, iron oxide	Matte finish
Bio-fillers	Coffee grounds, sawdust, shells, cattails	Texture & stiffness
Plasticiser	Glycerine	Softens the bioplastic

---

Tools

• Hot plate or stove
• Silicone molds / glass trays
• Digital scale
• Spatula & measuring jug
• Drying rack or dehydrator

Bio Foil

Final product

Bio Resin

Final product

Bio Yarns using Alginate

The results

Bacterial Cellulose leather aka Kombucha

Inspiration

1. Susana Sanmartin - Explores bacterial cellulose as a textile, creating fashion pieces that highlight natural textures and transparency.
2. Suzanne Lee - A pioneer in biofabrication who grows “BioCouture” garments from kombucha cultures, showing how clothing can be grown instead of manufactured.
3. Mille Teisne - Works with kombucha leather and natural dyes to develop soft, sustainable alternatives to animal leather.
4. Chelbaeva - Experiments with microbial materials and bioplastics, blending scientific methods with wearable design.
5. Paula Gonzalez - Develops eco-textiles using fermentation and organic processes, exploring how living materials can reshape fashion sustainability.

Kombucha Leather Recipe

Kombucha SCOBY Leather

Overview
Kombucha leather (or bacterial cellulose) grows from a symbiotic culture of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY) in a sweetened tea medium. Over time, it forms a thick, flexible sheet that can be dried, dyed, and shaped like fabric.

Ingredients
- 1 L filtered water
- 50–60 g sugar (white crystal sugar)
- 2–4 black tea bags (organic if possible)
- 100–200 ml starter kombucha (from a previous batch or unpasteurised store-bought)
- 1 SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast)
- 1 tbsp apple cider vinegar (to lower pH to ~5)

Equipment
- Large glass or food-grade plastic container
- Clean cloth or kitchen towel with small holes
- Rubber band or string
- Heating mat (optional, for cooler environments)
- Ethanol for cleaning containers

Method
1. Clean all tools and containers with ethanol.
2. Boil 1 L of water, steep tea bags for ~15 minutes, then remove them.
3. Add sugar and stir until dissolved.
4. Let the tea cool to room temperature (20–30°C) - hot tea will kill the culture.
5. Add apple cider vinegar and your starter kombucha liquid.
6. Gently place the SCOBY on top - it may float or sink (both are fine).
7. Cover the jar with a breathable kitchen cloth and secure with a rubber band (to keep out flies).
8. Leave the jar undisturbed in a warm spot (20–30°C), away from direct sunlight.
9. Check every 5 days - the SCOBY will thicken as it converts sugar into cellulose.
10. A full sheet forms in 3–4 weeks, depending on container size.

Harvesting & Finishing
1. When the sheet reaches desired thickness, remove it carefully and rinse with clean water.
2. Dry it flat on a silicone sheet or fabric frame.
3. Once dry, it becomes translucent and leather-like.
4. Dye after drying using tea, red wine, or natural pigments for colour variations.

Tips
- Black tea gives the most reliable growth.
- Avoid metal containers - they can react with the acidity.
- For thicker sheets, pour the mix into shallow trays.
- If it dries too fast, it may crack - slow drying yields smoother sheets.
- Adding butterfly pea tea gives a blue hue.

Mycelium

Inspiration

1. Yanko Design - A global design magazine that showcases innovative material experiments and sustainable prototypes, often blending nature with modern industrial design.
2. Philip Ross - An artist and researcher who pioneers mycelium-grown furniture and architectural structures, treating mushrooms as a construction material.
3. Klarenbeek & Dros - Dutch designers exploring biopolymers like algae and mycelium to create 3D-printed, biodegradable objects that challenge petrochemical plastics.
4. bioMATTERS - A design research studio developing biofabricated composites such as cellulose-based ceramics and biopolymers that merge science and aesthetics.

Mycelium Material Recipe

Mycelium Composites

Overview
Mycelium is the vegetative part of fungi - a living network of threads (hyphae) that bind organic matter together. With the right mix of substrate, moisture, and temperature, it grows into solid, compostable biocomposites.

Materials
- Mycelium starter (e.g. Pleurotus ostreatus / Oyster mushroom)
- Sterilised substrate (choose 1 or mix):
- Hemp fibres
- Jute or cardboard pulp
- Cat tail fibres
- Coffee grounds
- Clean water (to moisten substrate)
- Gloves, alcohol for sterilisation
- Petri dish or bag with filter patch
- Cling film or plastic bag (with air holes)

How to Start
1. Begin with mycelium on a Petri dish or slice from a fresh store-bought mushroom stem.
2. Place the sterile inner part on agar or in a sterilised medium.
3. Once the mycelium spreads, transfer to your moist substrate.

Substrate Preparation
1. Mix your chosen fibers (hemp, jute, cattail, coffee) in a clean bowl.
2. Add just enough water to moisten - not dripping.
3. Steam or autoclave to sterilise if possible.
4. Let cool before adding mycelium (heat kills spores).

Growth & Incubation
1. Mix substrate and mycelium gently until evenly distributed.
2. Place into your mould or breathable bag (poke air holes).
3. Keep at 20–25°C in a dark, ventilated space.
4. Mist lightly every 3–4 days - fungi need moisture + oxygen.
5. After 1–2 weeks, white mycelium should cover substrate.
6. When fully colonised (uniform white), it's ready for drying.

Finishing
1. Dry completely - air dry or oven at low heat (~80°C).
2. Optional: heat press to compact + seal surface.
3. While alive, pieces can be fused - they grow together.
4. Final piece becomes lightweight, strong, and compostable.

Tips
- Too dry → spray a little water
- Too wet → increase air flow
- Mycelium “remembers” mould shape
- Best to join pieces before drying

Reference
- Starter cultures: Mycelia / Krown.bio
- Based on Fabric Academy & Waag protocols

Fish skin

1. Inuit - For centuries, the Inuit have crafted fish skin leather from salmon, char, and cod, a soft yet remarkably durable material traditionally used for waterproof clothing, boots, and bags.
2. Vissenleer - A Dutch studio reviving traditional fish-leather techniques using eco-friendly tanning processes that transform waste skins into luxurious textiles.
3. Nienke-Hoogvliet - A designer exploring the hidden potential of marine materials, including fish leather and seaweed yarns, to question our relationship with waste.
4. Flora Houldsworth - Multi disciplined artist & friend who has worked with salmon skins in creating beautiful bags.
5. bn z (Pinterest) - A visual reference collection celebrating experimental fish-leather textures and natural hues for bio-inspired fashion concepts.

Fish Skin Leather - Ethanol & Egg Yolk Methods

Overview

Two natural tanning methods for transforming fish skin into a soft, flexible leather using only simple, non-toxic ingredients - one for preserving and disinfecting (ethanol + water) and one for softening and conditioning (egg yolk + sunflower oil + water).

Best skins: salmon, trout, cod, perch — cleaned, scaled, fleshed, scraped, and rinsed.

---

METHOD 1 - ETHANOL + WATER PRESERVATION

Ingredients
- Clean fish skins (scraped and rinsed, scaled & fleshed)
- 1 part ethanol (≥ 40%)
- 3 parts water

Tools
- Non-metallic bowl or jar
- Gloves and clean workspace

Steps
1. Rinse the prepared fish skins to remove any remaining fat or tissue.
2. Mix 1 part ethanol with 3 parts water in a non-metallic container.
3. Submerge the skins fully - ensure no overlapping.
4. Leave for 24–48 hours, shaking or stirring once or twice a day.
5. Remove, rinse lightly in clean water, and gently stretch.
6. Dry flat in a ventilated space, away from direct sunlight.

Result
- Pale, semi-translucent, and slightly firm fish leather.
- Ethanol disinfects, removes odour, and preserves the collagen fibres.

Tips
- Longer soaking = firmer texture.
- Combine with the egg yolk softening method below for a supple finish.

---

METHOD 2 - EGG YOLK + SUNFLOWER OIL + WATER SOFTENING

Ingredients
- 1 egg yolk
- Few drops of sunflower oil
- 1 tsp water
- Clean fish skins (scraped and rinsed, scaled & fleshed)

Tools
- Small bowl and whisk or fork
- Soft brush or cloth

Steps
1. Whisk egg yolk, sunflower oil, and water until creamy and smooth.
2. Lay the dried or semi-dried fish skin inner-side up.
3. Brush a thin layer of the emulsion evenly across the surface.
4. Let rest, then gently stretch and massage by hand.
5. Reapply the mixture once or twice for deeper absorption.
6. Continue stretching as it dries to prevent stiffness.

Result
- Soft, flexible, lightly golden fish leather.
- Naturally conditioned surface that feels smooth and durable.

Notes
- Use gloves; ethanol can dry your hands.
- Combining both methods yields strong, soft, and beautifully textured leather.
- Store finished samples flat or gently rolled once dry.

References
- Inspired by Inuit and Nordic fish-leather traditions
- Adapted for Fabric Academy / Waag TextileLab Amsterdam