10. Textile Scaffold¶

Research¶

Junele¶

Junele proposes custom Signs, Wall Art & Decor —Made from Recycled Fashion Waste An innovative approach to art and design — for those who want to stand out, sustainably.

/bespoke each piece is made by hand in my Dundee studio, tailored to your specified purpose, shape, size and colour

/biodegradable her custom plant-based binder, designed to dissolve in water so each piece can be safely broken down or remade

/recycled collected natural fibre fashion waste from across the UK, processed and used as the raw material for new artworks

/durable designed to last: panels are strong and stable indoors

Scafold cotton braand linen pattern¶

After all the tests, I started to design a portable project. I use my test in cotton and cornstarch resin for blocks. I will dye the cotton fiber with a natural red onion dye without additive. I will place linen fibers in both directions to create a solid framework and be able to assemble the bricks. That’s why I designed a 3-block mold with a thickness of 7/8 mm and notches to pass my fibers through the middle of my cotton and resin mixture. The wires that come out can be assembled with knots.

Material

Base: Cotton cutted into small pieces in an Hollander Blender

Dying color: Red oinions

Gelatine: - 100 g corn starch (or potato, tapioca or wheat starch) - 500 ml of water distilled - 1 tablespoon of white vinegar - 1 tablespoon of vegetable glycerin - 1 tablespoon of Borax

⁴ : Triple nottech Mold in .stl ⁵ : Triple nottech Mold COVER in .stl

Here is the result on the left: - I mixed the cotton and put it in an Hollander Blender - put a linen thread - no binder - Compressed in mold - I kept it warm and put a tile with a clamp for 2 hours in the dehydrator.

• easy to unmold
• the flax did not integrate into the mixture
• the cotton "brick" is very fragile and tearable

Here is the result on the right: - I mixed the cotton and put it in an Hollander Blender, - cotton dyed with red oinons - linen yarn - mixed about 30% of corn starch binder - Compressed in mold - I kept warm and put a printed PLA cover for 2 hours in the dehydrator.

• impossible to unmold, the starch and the PLA are welded

Focus on Pur cotton bricks.

CNC¶

I have always been rocked in the middle of an electronics lab, a photo lab, and a large wood cutting workshop. The tools have passed from hand to hand, and I find myself with my brother, heirs of this treasure. My brother has already installed a CNC in his garage and I will occasionally ask him for advice. I placed a cutting order with a manufacturer. I would like to be able to develop this skill because the combination of flexible materials and hard materials allows for building larger and more solid projects.

The CNC also has the possibility to work in 3D, for now I think of staying in 2D to familiarize myself with the process.

In 2D, I find it very interesting to take advantage of the constraints of the router and the arcs of a circle created during cutting/ramming. These circular arcs have led many designers to work on the shape of DOG BONES and to use this writing to give personality to objects.

Image: mkmra2

A blog with so many joints for CNC!

Fusion 360°¶

Camille introduced us to the CNC universe by making a book opener.

1. Design your 2D model

Mode CONCEPTION, open your model in Fusion 360. (The 2D shape was already drawn, we prepared it for cutting.)

2. Define the Workholding (Setup)

Mode MANUFACTURING Go to the Manufacture tab > Setup > New Setup. Select your model and orient it. OK

3. Set the origin

Use the Set Origin tool to place the zero point (WCS) where the tool will start (usually a corner of the stock). Ensure the Z-axis is pointing upward.

4. Define the Milling Tool

Open the Tool Library: Go to Manufacture > Tool Library. If you don’t have a suitable tool, create one:

Click Create Tool > Mill.

Enter the parameters:

GENERIC: Tool type: End mill (or a dedicated wood bit). Diameter: e.g., 6 mm or 10 mm, depending on your pocket/contour size. Length: Ensure it’s long enough to cut through 22 mm of plywood. Cutting speed and feed rate: For plywood, a spindle speed of 18,000–24,000 RPM and a feed rate of 1,200–1,800 mm/min are typical (adjust based on your machine and desired finish).

SAVE

My mill: Dia.: 8 - Dia body: 8 Lenght:70 Lenght under colar: 30 épaulement: 25 teeth: 22 3 teaths

5. Create a Pocket Operation

In the Manufacture tab, click 2D > Pocket. Select geometry:

Choose the inner contour of your pocket.

Cutting parameters:

Depth: 22 mm (full thickness of the plywood). Depth per pass: 5–10 mm (to avoid overloading the tool). Cutting strategy: Choose Conventional or Climb based on your finish requirements. Tool compensation: Enable if needed for precise pocket sizing. Speed and feed: Use the values defined earlier.

My setups

TOOL: Spindle: 20000 Cutting feedrate: 2760 Transition feedrate: 400 Ramp Feedrate: 1000 Plunge Feedrate: 400

GEOMETRY Closed Chan 1

PASSES: Both way ON Multiple Dephts: ON Maximum Roughing Stepdows: 3 mm Stock to leave: OFF

HEIGHTS no changes

LINING Safe distance: 4 mm Leads & Translation OFF Ramp/ Maximum Ramp Stepdown : 3° Helical Ramp Diameter: 5,7 / 7,6 Minimum Ramp Diameter: 4 mm

Simulate: Run a simulation to check the toolpath.

6. Create a Contour Operation

Go to 2D > Contour, select geometry: Choose the outer contour of your part.

Cutting parameters: (see above the image)

Depth: 22 mm (to cut through the material). Depth per pass: 4 mm. Tool compensation: Enable for accurate contouring. Pass direction: Climb for a cleaner finish.

7. Add tabs

To prevent the part from moving, add tabs in the parameters. Simulate: Verify the toolpath before generating G-code.

8. Generate G-code

Click Actions > Post Process. Select the appropriate post-processor for your CNC machine. Save the G-code file to a USB drive or transfer it directly to your machine.

My setups

TOOL: Spindle: 20000 Cutting feedrate: 2760 Transition feedrate: 400 Ramp Feedrate: 1000 Plunge Feedrate: 400

GEOMETRY Closed Chan 1 Tabs ON Tabs ON Tab Width: 6 mm Tab height: 1 mm Tabs per contour: 4

PASSES: Both ways: ON Multiple Dephts ON Verify your Mill is IN the stock

HEIGHTS no changes

LINING Safe distance: 4 mm Leads & Translation ON Ramp/ Maximum Ramp Stepdown : 8°

9. Manufacting with Camille's CNC machine, MEKANIKA S (EVO)

Fix well the wood on the plate
Define X,Y by using <>, define the Z with the connecting tool
Select your file and put glasses and helmett
Turn on the wacum (not automatical her)
Adapt the milling machine spead (5 = about 200000 s)
Plug the mill and never go away, turn it on, push the red button if neccessary!
Follow the milling machine with the vacum
When it's finished, turn off very machines, deplug the milling machine also.
With a wood scissors, put away connectors and sand the piece of whood.

¹ : Open book, .nc file

CNC Milling Machines¶

Mekanika offers a range of CNC milling machines for all types of machining. Evo is the ideal choice for hobbyists, Pro is a robust and powerful machine, and Fab tackles any panel-shaped material. Belgium made

MEKANIKA

They offer greats tutorial, in French, english... in video. Mekanika tutorials

Inspiration¶

Wood + color paper
Junele and wast of fabric
Encaustic, pigmented beeswax, black sand, powdered charcoal, soot… from Laura Moriarty

Crystal¶

Hot water: 250g SelSalt: 50g

A: Plywood disc, cut with laser cutting machine. [^2] SVG file
B: Salt plate
C: to break into pieces
D: Partial immersion of objects Wait for the result...

1. Leather
2. Plastic dowel 100% high quality nylon
3. PLA fibers
4. Cordellette
5. Foarm
6. Spool of thread
7. Whool
8. Silk
9. Leather-covered belt buckle
10. Wool ribbon

Result¶

At the Greenfabric, it is too cold and too wet for the water to evaporate. To test in summer!

Cornstarch with cotton and leather¶

Leather preparation¶

Wash leftover leather, and dry it. I didn't boiled the leather because those pieces are not natural dyed. It doesn't smell good and it could be dangerous.

Resine¶

Recipies

100 g corn starch (or potato, tapioca or wheat starch)
500 ml of water (preferably distilled)
1 tablespoon of white vinegar (for a better water resistance)
1 tablespoon of vegetable glycerin
Optional: 1 teaspoon vegetable oil (for more flexibility)

Optionnal:

For a better water resistance: Add a little bit of borax (1 teaspoon) to improve the moisture resistance, but this reduces the biodegradability.

For a better flexibility: Increase the amount of glycerin for a more flexible material.

Preparation steps

Initial mixture

In a saucepan, mix the starch and a small amount of cold water to form a smooth dough. Add the remaining water, vinegar and glycerin. Mix well.

2. Cooking

Bring the mixture to low heat, stirring constantly with a whisk. The preparation will gradually thicken. Continue to stir until you get a transparent gel texture (about 5-10 minutes). Do not boil too hard to avoid lumps.

3. Ready!

Remove from the heat as soon as the mixture becomes viscous.

4. Apply

Apply the resin to the mixed leather/cotton fibers or use it as a binder to agglomerate the leather particles in a mold.

5. **Drying**

Let air dry for 24 to 48 hours, or in the oven at 40-60°C to speed up the process. Complete drying can take several days depending on the thickness.
Conservation: Use the resin within 24 hours, as it can degrade or rot.

Encausic with cotton and leather¶

I used my cleaned leather, dried and the cotton that I mixed with wax. I shod the wax in my oven at 160° To mix the ingredients, wax and material, I had difficulties with the waxing machine. I pressed the mixture into steack molds. It is difficult to completely press the mixture. There are empty spaces left

Recipies

Bee wax
a teaspoon of coconut oil

Let the wax and oil melt in the oven or in the bath-marie. Mix the materials and the wax, Be careful, it’s hot! To assemble pieces of leather together, use a brush.

Let dry.

Others¶

Gelatine¶

Week 6, I made a mistake, I let my gelatine samples is the deshydrator. The result was interresting because the resine melted in the felt.

So I designed squares in felt, put Dyied resign on it. Unfortunety, it did melt and attached on the feld. I would try again whith natural felt and put a bigger thicknessof resine.

⁷ : Squares for laser cutting

PLA tests¶

In greenFabric we have a lot of knitted or leftovers PLA and Flex. I press with a hot press 200° - 30 secondes, once, double time… between 2 pieces of linen fabric. It doesn't melt that much.

At home, I use my domestic oven. I mixes Cotton / carton board / leather with PLA.

Despite the hood and open windows, the smoke filled the kitchen and I had to stop the experiment as a precaution. I also saw that my residue/PLA mixture was not good at all. You need to test with 70% of PLA in a very ventilated place.

Mold for leather¶

I used my shape from week 7 in Blender. I rounded the transitions to have a more leather-friendly look. I added a base to the positive model. To create the negative model, I folded the shape and thickened it with the "SOLIDIFY" transformer by 2 mm. I then applied a 'Difference' BOLEAN in a new block.

These shapes were printed in PLA. The leather will not be able to be hammered on it. You can use the shapes to make paper pulp on the other...

⁵ : Mold in Blender ⁶ : Mold (minus) in Blender

Fabrication files¶

Images and drawings: Annabel Fournier unless otherwise stated