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6. Computational Couture

This week is about 3D printing and parametric design.

PARAMETRIC DESIGN

Parametric design is an algorithmic approach that defines and encodes the relationships between a designer's intent and the design's response through parameters and rules, offering flexibility and precision. Unlike traditional CAD systems, where each element is generally independent, parametric design links decision variables and constraints directly to geometry, enabling interdependent relationships and dynamic control over design components. This approach allows designers to efficiently generate complex geometries, testing multiple design variants without the need for manual adjustments to individual elements, even as the project evolves. By establishing a network of relationships within the model, designers can easily manipulate parameters, exploring a range of solutions simultaneously and achieving a level of freedom and adaptability not possible in conventional drafting. This capability makes parametric design especially valuable in handling complex projects with numerous parameters, enabling designers to integrate various design aspects into a cohesive, responsive system that autonomously adapts and generates novel solutions within defined constraints.

KEY 3D PRINTING AND DIGITAL FASHION TECHNOLOGIES:

𖡎 SLA – Stereolithography is a 3D printing technique that uses UV light to cure liquid resin into solid layers, creating highly detailed, smooth surfaces. It's widely used in fashion design for crafting intricate pieces, as explored in resources like Digitally Crafted Couture, which delves into the applications of SLA in producing wearable art and detailed couture.

𖡎 PolyJet Technology is a multi-material 3D printing method from Stratasys that enables printing directly onto fabrics, offering the ability to integrate flexible, colorful textures and designs into textiles. This method is popular in fashion tech for creating garments that combine both 3D-printed and traditional fabric elements, enhancing customization and flexibility.

𖡎 Laser Sintering (EOS) particularly with EOS machines, is an additive manufacturing process that fuses powdered materials using a high-powered laser. It allows for the creation of durable, lightweight structures, often used in fashion for creating high-strength components or intricate, wearable designs that require precision and durability.

𖡎 Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) is a widely accessible 3D printing method that extrudes thermoplastic filaments layer by layer. Known for its versatility and cost-effectiveness, FDM is commonly used in prototyping and creating wearable tech, where flexibility and functionality are key.

Research & Ideation

How can structure replace material properties for stiffness ?

  1. Iris Van Herpen, Spring 2021 Couture “The ability to vary softness and elasticity inspired us to design a “second skin” for the body acting as armor-in-motion; in this way we were able to design not only the garment’s form but also its motion,” explains Oxman. “The incredible possibilities afforded by these new technologies allowed us to reinterpret the tradition of couture as ‘tech-couture’ where delicate hand-made embroidery and needlework is replaced by code….”

  2. Julia Keoner, SETAE For Chro Morpho Collection by STRATASYS The research explores digital setae pattern design and multi-color 3D printing on fabric, inspired by microscopic butterfly wing patterns. Butterfly wings are made up of membranes which are covered by thousands of colorful scales and hairs, plate-like setae. Photographs of the Madagascan Sunset Butterfly wing setae are digitized into an algorithm which translates the color pixels into 3D bristle patterns which correspond to the form of the garment design. The digital designs are 3D printed in an innovative way, without any support material and directly on fabric. The relation between the colourful rigid setae and the flexible fabric create enigmatic visual effects when the garment is in motion.

  3. Harumi Nakashima, Sculpture, 2002 Born in 1950, Harumi Nakashima is known for his biomorphic porcelain sculptures decorated with opulent blue dots, He excels in clay creations far removed from both tradition and functionality.

  4. Julia Koener, KELP MINI The KELP • MINI is entirely 3D printed, including its hinge, closure clasp and interior pocket. It features an iconic design that is inspired by natural kelp structures and can only be created using additive manufacturing, resulting in a hand bag consisting of 2980 layers and made locally from renewable plant-based polymers. The KELP • MINI is lighter than the HY Mini and has slightly larger pocket space.

More... amazing projects:

Julia Koener, Kelp Jacket

The Kelp Jacket by Julia Körner is an exceptional example of parametric design inspired by nature. Drawing from the organic forms found in marine life, particularly kelp, Körner used advanced computational techniques to generate the jacket’s flowing, intricate structure. The design mimics the fluidity and movement of underwater plants, creating a garment that is both visually striking and functional. Made using 3D-printing technology, the Kelp Jacket exemplifies how parametric design allows for the creation of complex, organic forms that would be difficult to achieve through traditional methods.

Source is official website of Julia Korner.

Nervous System, Cell Cycle Collection

Have you ever dreamt of wearing a ring that’s uniquely yours? Nervous System makes this a reality with their Cell Cycle Collection. Customers can tweak parameters like density and pattern, resulting in a one-of-a-kind ring that perfectly matches their personality using a web based tool. These designs are then 3D-printed, making each piece unique and tailored to the customer’s preferences. This blend of art and technology allows you to wear your individuality.

Source is Nervous System


Tools

Process and workflow

I followed all the steps of this video too create my experiment. It gives a clear explanation for making a turing pattern. It also gives a file so that we can tweak parameters ourselves. Having no experience on Blender I used this tutorial.

Step 1 : Creating a parametric model on Blender

↓↓↓ Step by step to have something to print ↓↓↓

  • Open file on Blender and tweak parameters (see screenshot above as well as tutorial video)
  • Press the space bar to start the simulation (go check the video to see more how it works!!)
  • Stop the simulation when at the growth you like
  • Create a plane and copy the geometry node above
  • apply the geometry node
  • Now you have an editable object → Select all the edges and extrude them on the Z direction, otherwise the slicer software will not be able to recognize your mesh because it's too flat.

I also used the documentation of Jeanne

Step : Printing

This is the machine used:



PRINTER PROFILE

𖡎 Model: PRUSA MINI & MINI +
𖡎 Nozzle Diameter: 0.2 mm QUALITY
𖡎 Technology: FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication)

PRINT SETTINGS

𖡎 Profile: 0.20mm 
𖡎 Layer Height: 0.08 – 0.28 mm
𖡎 Infill: 15% (Grid)
𖡎 First layer: 22min
𖡎 Total print time: 1h53min

MATERIALS

𖡎 Filament Type: FLEX
𖡎 Filament Used: 10.67 g (3.64 m)

  1. Press start to find your file on the machine (should be a 3mf format)
  2. Click on your file and see that interface, chack that everythuing is correct and press PRINT
  3. You can see the remaining time
  4. After a couple minutes of the print
  5. First complete layer

I sandwiched a layer of fabric between the first layer of the print and the rest of the print. That's the inal result :)

Fabrication files

3mf format for flex filament