2. Digital bodies¶
Research & Ideation¶
Interlocking slices 3d design:¶
There are many ways to 3d design now a days, one of the most common is 3d printing, nonetheless there are other tools that designers can resort to the fabrications of these organic models, such as de interlocking slices also known as stereotomy. This technique consist in breaking the models into a sequential plans, they can be, interlocking, folded panels, stacked, among others. How one choose to make these panels is up to the designer, based on purpose, material, dimension or simple design.
References & Inspiration¶
I took as inspiration the work of David Cenry with his piece “Lilith”. This is a 24-meter-tall statue of a woman holding a building in Prague. She is all made from interlocking slices, I love how he played with the intersections, so that it looks like the angle of the arms and legs is not the same as in the torso and back, giving it an interesting look form different directions
Moodboard of inspiration¶
References¶
- Michelangel (1501)- Lockman, S (2023) [Photograph]. Available at: https://www.pexels.com/es-es/foto/ligero-arte-pared-muro-14979275/
- Everitt, K (2018) [Photograph]. Available at: https://www.pexels.com/es-es/foto/estatua-de-david-1001835/
- Canva Images
Tools¶
Process and workflow¶
Make Human¶
I wanted to have a canvas of me for future projects, so I used the program Make Human, this is an amazing program in which one can modify almost anything of a person through parametric design. The program come with establish parameters, so first, I uploaded all my information, like, age, muscle (%), weight (kg), and heigh (cm)
Since I only wanted the torso, I focused on modeling only five subcategories (torso, hips, stomach, buttocks, pelvis). I took some pictures of me to have as comparison and be able to have a reference of how I needed to modify it. Once I thought it was almost perfect, I took my picture and the model and made a final comparison before jumping to the next program, Rhinoceros, I used it to verify that the measurements were the closest to reality.
To modify the stl. I used the command_MestToNurbs, this convert it into a polysurface. I traced cutting planes for the arms, legs, and head. After that I modify it to look more like a mannequin, filling with solids and moving the control points (Cntrl+shift). Finally, I exported the document as an stl. File>export selected>stl>accept
Slices¶
Slicer for fusion is an open-source software that offers different ways of turning almost anything into planes, It will do the hard work of diving the model equitably and extracting the plane of each piece (one can also move these slices freely, and the program will automatedly adjust all the sections that interlock with it). The first thing I did was to change the canvas dimensions for the ones of my material (cardboard 39mm). For that I created a new option, configurating length, width and thickness.
I try all the different techniques of planes that this program offers:
I decided to stick to radial, but I still was aiming for something more organic, so I modify the angles (axis) of the slices and adjust the pieces that were marked as an error.
Laser Cutter machine¶
Adjusting the plans for laser cutting¶
Before I started laser cutting, first we did a test of speed and power, to do that, we did a chart with the same vector, but assigned different metrical, this helped visualize which ones were the best for both cutting and engraving.
When cutting any kind of material, we need to consider the amount of material that will be lost. For that we do a Kerf Test: Ther are many ways of doing this test, on of them is to cut 9 rectangles with the same size, after the test, we assign the power and speed based on the exercise results, then after cutting, take all the pieces and position them one next to other, measure then the gap left with a vernier, and that measure divided in the number of cuts, in this case 10.
With that number, I made an assembly test to check if everything I did was correct.
Then, back to slicer for fusion, I changed the slot number for the one I got
Finally, to obtain the plans I followed this steps:
This program makes a different file for each sheet, so I imported all the files to Rhino where I accommodate all the parts to optimize as much as I could the material. Finally, I save it as DXF.
The laser machine works with SmartCarve, this is the software where I set the speed and power.
Laser cut¶
Tip before cutting: The distance between the laser-pointer and the material needs to be from 5 to 6mm, so before cutting we need to verify this distance, and if needed, adjust the pointer IMPORTANT: The software SmartCarve needs a USB that works as a key, the program wont open without it
I organized my pieces in the working area, checking before cutting with the option “Go scale” that none of them was out of the limit, assigned the speed and power and finally cut.
TIPS:
Step by Step Assemblyng process¶
Scann¶
To use this scanner, it is needed to download the software Creality
How does a scan work? Infrared: The laser reflects on the object an it calculates how much time it takes to return, this way it forms the mesh
To begin practicing I scanned one of my friend's hand. Go check her website!!. And she practiced scanning me
The first thing is to connect both the scanner and computer/laptop to a power source otherwise the program won't let you continue. Then you have to select the model of scanner; it will do automatically a test run to verify that the computer has the power to use it. I selected the infrared option because it is better for scanning people, it already has the option of “body” and finally went for geometry.
For the scanning process, first, I turned on the recording button; it has one camera that allows to visualize the image in the monitor, if needed there is also a flashlight that can be turn on for a better scanning. Inspired in Greek/Roman statues, I scanned my sister's torso and arms in a specific pose. After scanning, I made modifications directly in the program, like removing the parts that are not needed or wanted: like errors, other body parts in this case, or simply cut imperfections.
To save the document the steps are:
Scanning process¶
3D printing¶
To 3d print, I first imported by dragging the file to the program, since it was a scan of approximately 60 cm, it was a little bit heave. I made the basic modifications to the mesh, like scale it, rotate and positioned it in the printing space.
I stablished the parameters for the printing, some were based in past experiences with the machines, an others according to what the material supplier specified.
To use the printing machine first I needed to save the document in the sd card that goes directly to the printer.
To level the hot bed: Settings>Leveling>#1. The center point, or #1 has an automatic level, so it will be the starting point to align the other 4. Going one by one, with a piece of paper check that that the nozzle has the same space to the hot table. You do this by trying to drag the paper out, this way you “feel” if it’s the same pressure. Once I was sure that the bed was leveled, I sent the order to start printing directly in the touch screen.
Tip: you can see if the bed was well set when printing. If its wrong, it will look more like cylindrical rather than kind of smearing the plastic on the bed.
Tips
Statue¶
I wanted to experiment doing something that shows how even though we are in a very digital era of design, we don’t really have to do everything digital, we can use all those tools and combine them with materialistic disciplines.
So, following the same line of the Roman/Greek inspiration, I looked Greek and Roman statues to have as a reference. Then I covered the 3d model with an airdry clay (DAS), applying a little thick layer to modeled the breast and shoulders, then added another layer that would be the toga, to do the details of folded fabric I both modeled and sculp to give it a deeper effect.
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Fabrication files¶
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File: Laser cut plans ↩