10. Textile Scaffold¶
Research¶
This weeks assigment consisted in producing structures that gives shape, support, or volume to a garment or object.
It can be enveloping or replicate a shape. The enveloping effect could be like crystallization, which is a chemical reaction in which molecules arrange themselves into repeating geometric patterns; these repeating units form crystals.
To replicate a shape, wet molding leather is a tehcnique used used for years, that consist in soaking it in water to make it soft and stretchy, then shape it over a mold/object so when it dries it will take that form, converting it in a 3D structure
References & Inspiration¶
I really liked the idea of being able to mold leather; I think you can achieve very interesting shapes in a material that is usually rigid. I particularly liked the concept of making garments with leather to achieve a "wet" effect.
And I think a very famous example of this technique is the iconic custom-made Balmain leather dress that Zendaya wore to the premiere of Dune during the Venice Film Festival.
@adolfmaldonado moulding leather in 30 seconds Sleevless draped top Nappa soft leather this leather is a byproduct = the skins of meat industry are used instead of disposed #fashiondesigner #fashionstudent #leathermanipulation #craftsmanship #tailoring #top #leather #textileart #draping #moulding #garmentconstruction #designprocess #makingof #atelier ♬ I Am - Blunted Beatz
I also found interesting this technique can be used to make purses. Like this Wildoreo letherbag, with a design inspired in the renaissance
@wilderoeleather She walks in shadows, but light finds the heart. The Renaissance Heart Bag — where sculpted leather meets timeless femininity. Handcrafted in the Netherlands for those who choose rarity over trend. Model @milakane.me #heartbag #leatherart #slowfashion #renaissancebag #sculpturaldesign #handcraftedluxury #wilderoe #artisanalbag #feminineenergy #timelessstyle #ModernMuse #fashionstatement ♬ original sound - wilderoeleather
Also the Design studio kofta develop "Wearable sculptures", and i think is an exceptional example of how far we could take lather molding.
Tools¶
Crystallization¶
Crystallization adheres better to suspended surfaces; any part of the pieces touching the container will not crystallize. Therefore, using paper clips, I attached the charms I made during Computational Culture week to give them that crystallization effect.
We used two different components to make the crystallization: sulfate and borax:
Borax
- 65 gr Borax
- 100ml distilled water
Sulfate
- 35gr Sulfate
- 100ml distilled water
It is important to once the borax and distillated water are combined, to start mixing, otherwise it will solidify.
We use a mixer and a grill to mix both solutions and obtain a more homogeneous mixture. Once both solutions where ready I poured it in the container where I had my pieces.
I also took a little bit of the sulfate solution and mixed with purple dye to obtained different color of crystals.
Since the borax solidify fast, when I wanted to mixed it with black dye it started to form a mass, so I had to reheat it to get a liquid solution and be able to properly crystallize it.
I let them for 24hrs before taking them out, and this is the final result!
Leather molding¶
I got inspired by the Designs of Diana Ulanova, I had seen her designs for some time and I find them incredible, the way she creates layers, colors and textures for each type of design, so taking some inspiration from her designs I thought of doing something similar, inspired by how fungi grow in nature.
Photos form Pinterest
Photos form Pinterest
I started by designing the mold. I wanted to do a purse with a mushroom design. Inspiring of how they grow and seems to be intertwined with one another. So, using the AI Tripo Studio, I uploaded an image of a mushroom so that it would make me a 3d design to start with.
It was an almost completely flat design, so I exported it as stl. to modify it in blender using sculp mode, this way I was able to to make it more organic.
This is the idea for the final result:
3D Model¶
Once i had it I exported it again as stl to use it in Rhinoceros 3D and started experimented on the design.
Using the program Vcarve12.0 I made the cutting paths to obtain my mold by CNC cutting. I decided to use to different tools to obtain a better
CNC file¶
I followed this steps to configure the cutting file:
It is very important to save the paths separated, otherwise the machine is going to make both with the same tool
Woods¶
I pasted three mdf of 18mm together to get a block of 54mm. The measurements where the same as the space of work I configured the CNC cuts. To pasted them I apply a layer of White resistol in the faces of the Wood, and then using four C-clamps of 3” and a clamp, hold the three pieces together, leaving it to dry for 24 hours, although the glue dries in 3 hours.
CNC¶
To start, I secured my piece to the working table using the fasteners.
And changed the tool, it has two tightening stops, and it very important to make sure that it is tight otherwise it can fall, cut in circles instead of doing it on its own axis, or cause and accident.
The tools have a mark indicating the maximum point to which they can protrude it looks like: __V__
The next thing is to set all three axis. Starting with X,Y and then with Z.
Finally selecting the first path (roughing), when done, selecting the second file (finish), changing again the tool.
Preparing the mold¶
Once I had my mold cut, I apply two layers of White resistol diluted in water (50/50), to seal it. Then applying two layers of varnish.
Leather¶
Now, I prepared a solution of 30% resistol and 70% water to submerge the leather. And then leave it for 45 minutes until it was malleable enough to be placed on the wooden mold.
I used 4 C-clam of 3” so secure the leather to the mold, and they use nails to strengthen the parts where the leather was too loose.
I leave it for a around 36 hrs. and they take it out first the clamps, then the nails, and finally carefully manipulate the leather.
Then repeat the proces again
And again
So far...
With all the pieces I made, I started experimenting with different ways to see which one convinced me the most, whether with a blue or black background, and how to arrange the small layers.
