6. Computational Couture¶
Introduction¶
The concept of computational couture represents the intersection of algorithms, digital modeling, and creative fashion design. In this field, shapes are not constructed through traditional cutting and sewing, but rather generated through mathematical and software logic based on data, equations, or digital simulations. The goal is to free designers from physical constraints and open the way for designing digitally customized fashions for each user's body, while maintaining geometric precision and artistic beauty.
Research & Ideation¶
Theoretical Foundation¶
This approach relies on the use of tools such as:
Rhino + Grasshopper: to create complex shapes generated by generative equations or algorithms.
CLO3D / Blender / Rhino plugin: to simulate fabrics and digitally test them on the body.
The designer relies on parametric design systems that allow variables (such as length, curvature, and repetition) to generate an infinite number of models.
The computational approach focuses on the relationship between data and final form; each piece of clothing can express personal or environmental data.
Design Philosophy¶
Computational design combines mathematical logic and technical precision on the one hand, and aesthetic and creative sensibility on the other.
In this approach, the designer becomes both a programmer and an engineer, treating code and equations as tools for artistic expression.
Fashion is no longer merely a covering for the body, but rather an extension of digital data that expresses the user's identity, movement, and even emotions.
This shift leads to the concept of "mass customization," the production of digitally customized fashions instead of repetitive industrial production.
Techniques and Tools Used¶
Parametric modeling: Creating flexible systems for design generation.
Algorithmic design: Programming shapes using code (such as Python for Rhino).
3D scanning: Customizing designs based on real-world body dimensions.
Digital fabrication: Such as 3D printing, laser cutting, and computer modeling.
Trend Analysis¶
Computational Couture aims to redefine "tailoring" as a digital computational process.
It reduces waste and enables sustainable fashion design through simulation before manufacturing.
It opens the door to interdisciplinary collaborations between designers, engineers, programmers, and scientists.
This approach represents a step toward a future where artificial intelligence and generative models are essential components of the fashion industry.
References & Inspiration¶
The field of computational couture is a fertile ground for inspiration, combining art, science, and technology. This week's inspiration ranged from experimental art projects to design research based on algorithms and parametric modeling. Designers in this field explore how data and equations can generate shapes that touch the body in unconventional ways, and how programming can transform into a new design language.
Inspiring Projects and Designers:¶
- Iris van Herpen – Voltage Collection
She used algorithms that simulate electrical energy and the movement of waves around the body.
The collection was created using 3D printing techniques in partnership with the MIT Lab.
- Anouk Wipprecht – Spider Dress
An interactive dress equipped with sensors and robotic movements that reacts to people's proximity.
The project combines electronic engineering, fashion design, and artificial intelligence.
It represents a powerful example of fashion as an intelligent and autonomous entity.
- Nervous System – Kinematics Dress
A design studio that combines mathematics and nature.
The dress is composed of small, interconnected units that move freely to fit the body.
It was generated using Parametric Design algorithms and then fully printed without any seams.
KUFLAG BAG¶
KUFLAG BAG Dosam's first product. Designed BY DOA'A ALHINTY
It was carefully designed to be a distinctive piece for women seeking something special, not just a bag.
Inspired by the bird motifs on the Palestinian koffiyeh, as well as the arches of old buildings in Amman and Jerusalem.
The bag features interchangeable parts; the arches and the handle can be swapped for a different design.
Currently, two designs are available:
The first features a 3D print on fabric combined with bio-leather.
The second is fully 3D printed and includes a bio-leather pouch inside.
3d printers 101¶
In our lab tow types of FDM 3D printers available;
- Ultimaker
- Prusa
For me I used Ultimaker printers many times before, using Prusa is new experiment.
Ultimaker¶
Ultimaker 3D printers are among the most popular professional printers based on FDM technology, distinguished by their high precision and reliability in educational, design, and engineering environments. They are widely used in prototyping, product development, and research experiments, thanks to their compatibility with a wide range of materials and ease of integration with digital design and manufacturing software.
Ultimaker Cura is an open-source 3D printing file preparation program and one of the most widely used slicing programs in the world. It allows users to convert 3D design models into precise printer instructions, with flexible control over print settings such as resolution, print speed, support type, and material properties. Cura features a user-friendly interface suitable for beginners, while also offering advanced settings to meet the needs of designers, engineers, and professionals.
In the software preparation phase for printing, the 3D model is first checked for geometric errors. Then, the appropriate printing orientation is selected to minimize supports and improve the part's strength and surface quality. Next, the layer height is adjusted according to the desired level of detail; thinner layers offer higher accuracy but require a longer printing time.
The type and percentage of infill are also determined to control weight and rigidity. The printing speed, nozzle temperature, and print bed temperature are adjusted to suit the material being used. Settings also include controlling the supports in terms of their location and density, as well as adhesion settings to the printing surface, such as brim or raft, to prevent warping and separation. All these details collectively directly impact the printing success and final quality.
Cura Interface – Short Overview
Import Model: Load a 3D model via menu or drag-and-drop into the build area.
Printer Selection: Choose the active printer from a dropdown list.
Material & Nozzle: Select material and nozzle size to auto-load print profiles.
Workflow Stages:
Prepare: Set print parameters
Preview: Review sliced layers
Monitor: Track connected printers
Settings Overview: View and access current print settings.
Model Tools: Move, rotate, scale, mirror models, or add supports.
Build Area: Printable space of the selected printer.
Print Profiles: Select or create profiles balancing speed and quality.
Utility Menu: Control view, check dimensions, manage file names and models.
Slice: Convert the model into printable layers; re-slice after any change.
Prusa XL Enclosure¶
Prusa is a leading 3D printing company, renowned for its high-quality, FDM-based printers. Prusa printers are known for their precision, reliability, and ease of maintenance, along with their reliance on open-source software, making them a popular choice for education, research, and prototyping among both hobbyists and professionals.
Prusa Slicer is an open-source 3D printing file preparation software developed by Prusa to be compatible with their own printers and many others. It allows users to precisely adjust printing settings such as layer thickness, supports, and internal fill, while providing ready-made profiles that facilitate high-quality results for both beginners and professionals.
The main screen in PrusaSlicer is designed to streamline the workflow from model import to export for printing. In the center of the screen is the Build Plate, which displays the printer's dimensions, allowing you to position, move, rotate, or resize the model.
At the top are tools for importing files, copying, and aligning, along with buttons to control the display mode. On the right side is a panel for selecting the printer, material, and print settings (Print/Filament/Printer Profiles), which directly controls print quality and speed.
At the bottom of the interface is the Slice/Export G-code button. After slicing, you can switch to Preview mode to view the layers and nozzle path. This screen combines simplicity with advanced control, making it suitable for both beginners and professionals.
grasshopper 101¶
Grasshopper is a parametric design program that functions as an add-on within Rhinoceros 3D. It relies on visual programming rather than traditional commands. It allows designers to create complex shapes and systems by linking nodes and equations, with the ability to modify the design instantly by changing values. Grasshopper is widely used in architectural and industrial design, as well as in the design of advanced digital patterns and structures.
grasshopper first try ever¶
During this week I started to learn grsshopper from scratch, so the below swatch is like grasshopper 101.
my first trial with grasshopper was like any electric circuit. later I started to enjoy using grasshopper for designing.
Summary of the steps for creating a shape in Grasshopper (as shown in the image):
Create the basic shape: Start by drawing a 2D shape (polygon/curve) in Rhino or generating one within Grasshopper.
Convert the shape to a surface: Use a component to convert the curve to a surface.
Copy the unit (array/move): Duplicate the basic shape along a specified direction using Move with a vector and a specified number of times.
Add thickness: Convert the surface to a 3D object using Extrude or Offset Surface.
Bake then check that the shape appear on rhino as solid.
3D Printing on fabric process¶
The 3D printing process on fabric involves several basic steps,
beginning with printing one or two layers of the design.
After printing the first few layers, the printer stops based on the settings previously configured on the slicer software.
The fabric is then securely mounted on the printer bed to prevent movement or wrinkling during printing. The printing is then applied directly onto the fabric, ensuring the first layers overlap with the fabric fibers for proper adhesion. Once finished, the work is allowed to cool before the fabric is gently removed. Flexibility and durability are then tested to confirm successful bonding between the printed material and the fabric.
Cura slicer settings¶
For the following swatch thats printed useng ULTIMAKER printer this is the settings for the cura slicer.
First swatch - The sun¶
Sun pattern printed on fabric using PLA filament on Ultimaker printer
Designing on Grasshopper
The design on grasshopper consist of two part, after I imported sun shape vector I draw it in rhno and it consist of tow parts the circle and the shine, so aftrer that I started to complete the design on grasshopper for each curve alone to get the 3d shape.
Ultimaker cura settings
while printing
Second swatch - The net PLA¶
Net pattern printed on fabric using PLA filament on Ultimaker printer
Designing on GRASSHOPPER
Ultimaker cura setting
While printing
Third swatch - The net TPU¶
Net pattern printed on fabric with stretching on both sides using TPU filament on Ultimaker printer
I used the Same design.
Cura Ultimaker setting
Fourth swatch - The curved cross¶
Curved cross pattern printed on fabric using PLA filament on PRUSA printer
Designing on grasshopper
Prusa slicer settings
While printing
Qubba Tile¶
Qubba Tile Pattern printed using TPU filament on ULTIMAKER printer
Qubba Tile pattern inspired by the gorgous THE DOME OF THE ROCK tiles which is OTTOMAN tiles represent floral motifs.
Rhino & Grasshopper designing process
I started with importing the tile picture to rhino, then I draw it.
for the next step I used array in rhino and saw how the shape is.
then I went grasshopper to to change the curves to surfaces, then I extrude the surfaces and bake it to get the solid shape on rhino.
Cura slicer settings
While printing
3D Model
Tools¶
- [Grasshopper](https://www.grasshopper3d.com)
- [Rhino3D](https://www.rhino3d.com)
- [Ultimaker](https://ultimaker.com)
- [Prusa](https://www.prusa3d.com/)