7. BioFabricating Materials¶
Are Biofabrication Technologies Really Environmentally Friendly?
During my work using bio-based materials in design projects, and while working on establishing Dosam Studio, a question was always raised by people and clients: Are these materials really environmentally friendly and harmless to humans?
Biofabrication is presented today as a sustainable trend and a healthy alternative to traditional petroleum- or animal-based manufacturing. But is this claim accurate?
Are these materials truly environmentally friendly and harmless to humans?
Or are we simply reproducing the same consumerist model, but with a more appealing, "bio" facade?
Research¶
Innovation in biomaterials is often seen as a step toward reducing industrial emissions, limiting plastic use, and lessening reliance on animal hides.
However, sustainability assessment is not based solely on the form or source of a material, but rather on its entire cycle of production, use, and return to the ecosystem.
Life cycle assessment studies of biomaterials indicate that they may reduce carbon emissions compared to petroleum-based materials, but they are not energy-, water-, or nutrient-free, especially in growth environments that require heat, incubation, or precise control of conditions.
Sources of Biomaterials¶
Biofabrication techniques rely on living organisms such as:
Cellulose-producing bacteria (e.g., SCOBY)
Fungi (Mycelium)
Plant cells
Natural polymers such as chitosan and alginates
These sources are renewable and are not associated with practices harmful to animals, making them ethically preferable to animal hides or petroleum-based polymers.
However, the growth process itself requires:
Water
Sugars and nutrients
Energy (especially when using incubators or bioreactors)
This means the environmental footprint doesn't disappear entirely, but rather changes in form.
Environmental Impact According to Recent Studies¶
Scientific studies published in:
Nature Communications (2023)
MDPI Sustainability (2024)
ScienceDirect (2025)
show that biomaterials may reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 30% to 60% compared to petroleum-based materials.
However, on the other hand:
They may increase water and nutrient consumption.
Their environmental impact varies depending on the source of the raw materials (are they local or imported?).
It also varies depending on whether or not temperature control is implemented during growth.
Chemicals Used and Their Effects¶
Although the base material is biodegradable, improving its properties (flexibility, water resistance, and shelf life) often requires the addition of:
Glycerol or plasticizers
Water-resistant coatings such as PVA or synthetic wax
Sometimes synthetic polymers such as PU or acrylic
This can lead to:
Reduced biodegradability
Increased carbon footprint
Potential health effects upon skin contact or product disposal
This means the material may transform from a biodegradable biodegradable material into a hybrid material that does not fully decompose.
The Socio-Economic Dimension¶
If the production of biomaterials remains confined to laboratories or large corporations, this:
Reproduces centralized production
And reduces access for local or independent manufacturers
However, if a model based on open knowledge, low-cost tools, and the utilization of local resources is adopted, biomanufacturing will become a tool for:
Boosting the local economy
Empowering small designers
And reducing transportation and long supply chains.
Summary¶
Biofabrication is not an entirely green solution, but rather a new production system that requires critical awareness during its implementation.
It can only be considered truly environmentally friendly if:
Local or recycled nutrients are used (not high-consumption agricultural crops).
Energy consumption during growth and drying is minimized.
No synthetic coatings that prevent biodegradation are used.
Material production is possible outside of a centralized industrial system.
The final product has undergone safety testing for skin contact.
If these conditions are met → Biofabrication becomes a truly conscious and sustainable alternative.
If they are not met → It becomes a "cosmetic solution" that replicates the environmental problem in a different way.
References¶
Sustainable biofabrication: from bioprinting to AI-driven predictive methods
Biofabrication should be sustainable
What Are Biofabrics & How Sustainable Are They?
The potential of emerging bio-based products to reduce environmental impacts
Biofabrication and Sustainable Fashion: Exploring Novel Materials for Eco-Friendly Apparel
References & Inspiration¶
- Suzanne Lee – Founder of Biofabricate
A fashion designer and researcher, she pioneered the concept of "BioCouture," using yeast and bacteria to produce wearable "skin."
She founded Biofabricate as a global platform for developing and supporting the bio-materials industry.
A leading producer of mycelium leather, known as Reishi™.
Their product has already entered the luxury market with global brands like Hermès.
An American company that developed Mylo™, a mycelium-based leather alternative.
They have collaborated with Adidas, Stella McCartney, and Patagonia.
A British company that manufactures textile fibers using bacteria that weave webs resembling natural fabrics.
The materials are designed to be strong, lightweight, and sustainable.
A bio-fabrication company that uses seaweed (kelp) to produce biodegradable textile yarns that compete with nylon.
It reduces the industry's reliance on fossil fuels.
Dialogues with Biomaterials¶
I began designing with biomaterials in 2022, and since then, I have carried out numerous experiments and creations. Each one of them feels like a story I tell, or a dialogue with someone dear to me.
Tools¶
These tools joined our journey all the week:
Still Matters¶
One of the important aspects is to view materials as opportunities, especially fruit and vegetable residues, as well as any other resources that may hold potential for creating biomaterials.
So you can easily dry lots of parts of fruits, vegetables, plant, ... etc, then keep it and use it in dying or as filling in biomaterials.
as you see in the picture below of carrot bioleather
Mistakes always happen¶
When working with experimental materials, even in the design phase, mistakes are inevitable and can occur frequently. This is especially true when working with natural materials, which are more susceptible to mold growth, excessive drying, cracking, breakage, and other changes that may occur during the process. These mistakes are an essential part of the learning and development journey, and not necessarily a negative outcome.
Another thing that might happen is that, in our haste, we might forget some of the leftover materials we made inside the cup, and they will dry out inside over time without us noticing
recipes¶
Gelatine Recipes:¶
All the most common Gelatin base materials recipes are sharing the same ingredient with different ammounts for each recipe.
In these recipes we used water as solvent, glycerine as plasticizer, gelatine as polymer.
before we startwith our recipes:
one of the most common recipes is gelatin base bio-plastic, in the below picture we can see different trials to make it with and without additives.
Bio-silicone
Ingredients amounts:
- Gelatine: 48 g
- Glycerine: 30 g
-Water: 240 ml
Add the water to the pot and wait couple of miniuts then add the glycerine and stir, when you see the that they mixed well then add the gelatine and keep stirring slowly untill the gelatine completly dissolved you can keep stirring for more time but be sure not to boil the mixture, know you can powr the mixture into your mold or tray and keep it untill complete dry.
| Material name | Flexibility | Drying Time | Shrinkage |
|---|---|---|---|
| bio-silicon | high | medium | medium |
Bio-foam:
Ingredients amounts:
- Gelatine: 24 g
- Glycerine: 6 g
- Water: 240 ml
- soap: 5 ml
Add the water to the pot and wait couple of miniuts then add the glycerine and stir, when you see the that they mixed well then add the gelatine and keep stirring slowly untill the gelatine completly dissolved you can keep stirring for more time but be sure not to boil the mixture, after that take some of your mixture to a cup or a powl and using amanual baloons blower or just use a straw to Pump air into the mixture untill the bubbles appear, you can make it as parts and transform each part alone to thae mold and tary to let it dry, if there any mixture left after you complete the mold you can just pour it with the foam to get foam surface with resin bottom.
| Material name | Flexibility | Drying Time | Shrinkage |
|---|---|---|---|
| bio-foam | low | low | medium |
Agar agar recipes:¶
The same of Gelatine all the most common Agar agar base materials recipes are sharing the same ingredient with different ammounts for each recipe.
In these recipes we used water as solvent, glycerine as plasticizer, Agar agar as polymer.
Bio-foil:
Ingredients amounts:
- Agar Agar: 5 g
- Glycerine: 15 g
- Water: 240 ml
Add the water to the pot and wait couple of miniuts then add the glycerine and stir, when you see the that they mixed well then add the Agar and keep stirring slowly untill the it completly dissolved you can keep stirring for more time but be sure not to boil the mixture, add your colors, know you can powr the mixture into your mold or tray and keep it untill complete dry.
| Material name | Flexibility | Drying Time | Shrinkage |
|---|---|---|---|
| bio-foil | high | medium | high |
### Gelatine Agar agar recipe:
In this recipe we made a mix between Gelatine & Agar agar to se the the produced material and its characteristics.
In this recipe we used water as solvent, glycerine as plasticizer, mixture of gelatin & Agar agar as polymer.
Bio-Plastic:
Ingredients amounts:
- Gelatine: 28 g
- Agar Agar: 6 g
- Glycerine: 12 g
- Water: 220 ml
Add the water to the pot and wait couple of miniuts then add the glycerine and stir.
when you see the that they mixed well then add the Agar and keep stirring slowly untill it completly dissolved.
then add the gelatin and keep stirring slowly util the gelatine dissolve completly but be sure not to boil the mixture,add your color while you stirring.
know you can powr the mixture into your mold or tray and keep it untill complete dry.
| Material name | Flexibility | Drying Time | Shrinkage |
|---|---|---|---|
| bio-plastic | very low | medium | low |
### Alginate recipe:
For all Sodium alginate base materials recipes you use the same ingredient with different ammounts for each recipe.
In these recipes we used water as solvent, glycerine as plasticizer, Sodium alginate as polymer and calcium chloride + water solution as curing agent.
Bio-lether:
Ingredients amounts:
- Sodium Alginat: 12 g
- Glycerine: 45 g
- Water: 400 ml
- calcium chloride: 10 g
- water: 100 ml
Add the water, glycerine, alginate and the oil to blenderand mix it well, nearly 3 min. to be sure that all the ingredients mixed well together. let the mixture to rest about 12 hours so the bubbles will The bubbles will rise to the top and the mixture will become clear.
pour the mixture to your tray and wait couple of min. then start using your curing solution, you will start notice that the sheet will start to shrink. wait half an houre then wash it with water to remove the excess calcium chloride, let it to dry copletly.
| Material name | Flexibility | Drying Time | Shrinkage |
|---|---|---|---|
| bio-leather | high | high | high |
From the same recipe I made BIOYARN: I put the mixture in a syringe and I took it directly into the calcium chloride solution.
Bio-plastic:
Ingredients amounts:
- Sodium alginate: 12 g
- Glycerine: 20 g
- sunfloweroil: 10 g
- Water: 200 ml
- calcium chloride: 10 g
- water: 100 ml
you can add color: food colors, natural dyes, mica powder.
you can add any dried components to be like filler.
Add the water, glycerine, alginate and the oil to blenderand mix it well, nearly 3 min. to be sure that all the ingredients mixed well together. let the mixture to rest about 12 hours so the bubbles will The bubbles will rise to the top and the mixture will become clear.
pour the mixture to your tray and wait couple of min. then start using your curing solution, you will start notice that the sheet will start to shrink. wait half an houre then wash it with water to remove the excess calcium chloride, let it to dry copletly.
| Material name | Flexibility | Drying Time | Shrinkage |
|---|---|---|---|
| bio-plastic | medium | medium | high |
All materials in one place¶
Documenting and comparing experiments¶
TEST SERIE BIO-PLASTIC¶
| Material pic | Material name | polymer | plastifier | filler | emulsifier |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 |
bio-silicone | Gelatine powder 48 gr | glycerol 30 ml | - | - |
 |
bio-film | Agar Agra 5 gr | glycerol 15 ml | - | - |
 |
bio-foam | Gelatine powder 24 gr | glycerol 6 ml | - | soap a drop |
|
bio-yarn | sodium alginate 12 gr | glycerol 45 ml | Mica powder | - |
 |
bio-plastic | gelatine 28 gr + Agar Agar 6 g | glycerol 12 ml | - | - |
 |
bio-plastic | sodium alginate 12 gr | glycerol 20 ml | Mica powder | - |
 |
bio-leather | sodium alginate powder 12 gr | glycerol 45 ml | mica powder | - |
### Kombucha leather:
Kombucha Leather
Kombucha leather is a bio-based, customizable material obtained by fermenting a solution of tea and sugar using a colony of bacteria and yeast (SCOBY). During fermentation, a bacterial cellulose film forms on the surface of the liquid, which is then harvested and dried into a supple material that resembles natural leather in texture and function.
My interest in this material began as an alternative to traditional materials often associated with unsustainable consumption, whether animal leather or synthetic leather derived from petroleum. Working with SCOBY is like collaborating with a living organism; it requires time, care, and constant monitoring. Each piece I've produced has its own unique character and story.
And since I have been experimenting with kombucha for a while, I can now summarize the most important key points in its production process.
Ingredients:
Ingredients amounts:
- 1 liter of water
- 2 tablespoons of black or green tea
- 100 grams of white sugar
- 1 SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast)
- 100 ml of starter liquid (previous kombucha batch or store-bought unpasteurized kombucha)
Preparation Method:
-
Preparing the Tea Boil water and add the tea for 5–10 minutes. Remove the tea and add sugar, stirring until completely dissolved.
-
Cooling Let the tea cool to room temperature (heat kills bacteria and yeast).
-
Fermentation Place the tea in a wide glass container.
Add the SCOBY and starter liquid.
-
Covering and Waiting Cover the container with a breathable, dust-proof cloth.
-
Leave it in a warm place (20–28°C).
-
Within 7–21 days, a thick film will form on the surface.
-
Harvesting and Drying
-
Harvesting Gently lift the film and wash it with lukewarm water.
-
Spreading Place it on a smooth surface (glass, plastic, or Teflon).
-
Drying Let it dry naturally for 3 to 10 days, depending on its thickness and the temperature.
Note:!!
If it dries too quickly, it may crack, and if the environment is humid, it may mold. Monitoring is important.
- Finishing
After drying, the material's properties can be modified:
To increase flexibility: Apply a coat of natural oils such as coconut oil or diluted beeswax.
Observations of challenges during the experiment:
Uneven thickness changes.
Cracking during drying.
Mold formation due to high humidity or poor ventilation.
Difficulty controlling flexibility after drying.
## Biomaterial Elegance
I designed this necklace to be showcased at the Maker Collective, its made from jute, soduim alginate, banana fibers
This necklace is designed to be more simpler than the previouse one , made of cotton fibers and sodium alginate
