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4. BioChromes

Research

Biochromes are natural pigments derived from living organisms—including plants, insects, fungi, and microorganisms—used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic dyes and inks. Extracted from renewable sources such as pomegranate rinds, onion skins, indigo plants, turmeric roots, avocado pits, and even pigment-producing bacteria, biochromes offer an eco-friendly approach to coloration across textiles, art, biodesign, cosmetics, food, and pharmaceutical applications.

Unlike synthetic dyes, biochromes are biodegradable, non-toxic, and aligned with circular economy principles, significantly reducing environmental pollution, water consumption, and chemical waste.Their use supports more responsible production systems while preserving rich, organic color palettes that vary naturally based on source, extraction method, and material interaction.

Biochromes can be prepared as dyes—water-soluble pigments that penetrate fibers—or as inks, which are denser and suited for writing, printing, or surface applications. To ensure durability and colorfastness, textiles such as cotton, wool, or silk must undergo preparation processes including scouring and mordanting. Mordants act as binding agents that help pigments adhere to fibers and can be plant-based (such as tannins) or mineral-based (including alum or iron), each influencing the final hue and tonal depth.

Key Aspects of Biochromes

Source Variety: Derived from plant matter (leaves, roots, fruits, seeds, bark, flowers), insects (e.g., cochineal), fungi, and pigment-producing microorganisms.

Sustainability: Lower environmental impact compared to synthetic dyes, with renewable sourcing and reduced toxicity.

Versatile Applications: Used in textiles, inks, art, biodesign, and emerging material practices.

Material Interaction: Color outcomes depend on fiber type, mordant choice, and processing techniques.

Common Biochrome Color Sources:

Reds & Pinks: Cochineal insects, madder root, avocado pits and skins, pomegranate skins
Yellows & Oranges: Turmeric, onion skins, pomegranate rinds, weld
Blues & Purples: Indigo (most iconic), purple cabbage
Browns & Greens: Walnut hulls, eucalyptus leaves, spinach, black tea, coffee

Recent research highlights the growing relevance of natural dyes and pigments as sustainable alternatives to synthetic colorants.

References & Inspiration

I was inspired by the natural dyeing techniques used in Oaxaca, Mexico that came from the Mesoamerical culture. I wanted to test how to dye fabrics using pumpkin flowers because is considered one ephemeral pigment hard to make it last.References: The Art of Dyeing Naturally in Oaxaca


Credit:Samantha Demangate


Tools & Materials

  • PH strips
  • cotton fabric
  • pots, jars
  • spoon, tongs, wisk etc
  • camera

Process and workflow

Natural Dye: Cotton & Wool

I follow the steps in the recipe for every of the ingredients.

Ingredients & Recipes

Fabric Cotton 100%

  • Scouring: soak the cotton in ph neutral soap for 30 min.
  • Weight and cut the cotton in 20x20cm pieces.
  • Prepare the dye bath.
  • Sumerge the fabric in the dye bath.
  • I changed mordants and measure the ph changes.

  • Prepare the swatches.

    Ingredients

    • 125 gr Hibiscus flowers
    • 125 gr Pupmkin flowers
    • 2 tbsp Annato
    • 2 tbsp Turmeric

Tools Materials


Yarn Angora Wool

  • Scouring: soak the yarn in ph neutral soap for 24 hrs.
  • Prepare the dye bath.
  • Mordant: Salt.
  • Ph modifier: Vinegar.
  • Sumerge the yarn in the dye bath.
  • Measured the ph.

  • Prepare the swatches.

    Ingredients

    • Hibiscus flowers 1/2 cup
    • Coffee 1/2 cup
    • Turmeric 1/2 cup


Botanical Ink: Cotton & Wool

Yarn Angora Wool

  • Scouring: soak the yarn in ph neutral soap for 24 hrs.
  • Prepare the dye bath.
  • Mordant: Arabic gum
  • Sumerge the yarn in the dye bath.
  • Measured the ph.

  • Prepare the swatches.

    Ingredients

    • Hibiscus flowers 1/2 cup
    • Coffee 1/2 cup
    • Turmeric 1/2 cup

Fabric Cotton 100%

  • Scouring: soak the fabric in ph neutral soap for 24 hrs.
  • Prepare the dye bath.
  • Mordant: Arabic gum
  • Sumerge the fabric in the dye bath.
  • Measured the ph.

  • Prepare the swatches.

    Ingredients

    • Hibiscus flowers 1/2 cup
    • Coffee 1/2 cup
    • Turmeric 1/2 cup
Hibiscus & Pumpkin Flowers


Annato & Turmeric


Drying..


RESULTS

NATURAL DYE: COTTON FABRIC AND ANGORA WOOL YARN



RESULTS

NATURAL INK