3. Circular Open Source Fashion¶
Research & Ideation¶
This week we focused on open source and zero waste systems. I found a few artists and concepts that I beleive align well with my understanding of both ideas.
* 0-waste modular dress - [Stephanie Johnsons - TextileLab Amsterdam](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/stephanie-johnson/assignments/week03/#f-i-n-a-l)
* Modular balaclava - [Mina Mayo Smith - FabLab Kamakura](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/mina-smith/assignments/week03/#octopus-balaclava)
* Modular jewellery - [Shefali Desai - Somaya](https://class.textile-academy.org/2025/shefali-desai/assignments/week03/)
* 0-waste garment - [Ruby Lennox - FabLab Bcn](https://class.textile-academy.org/2024/ruby-lennox/assignments/week03/#final-garment)
* 0-waste garment - [Alve Lagercrantz - FabLab Bcn](https://class.textile-academy.org/2023/alve-lagercrantz/assignments/week03/)
* Assembly instructions & embedded message - [Jessica Stanley - TextileLab Amsterdam](http://class.textile-academy.org/2019/jessica.stanley/assignments/week03/)
References & Inspiration¶
I decided to focus on materials an concepts bio available to Georgia, USA. Corn is widley available as a resource. I hope to show within my documentation how it is also a great case study for Circular Open Source Fashion technologies and concepts.
Biological Inspiration: I see Maize (corn) as a modular system. It has a nested modular hierarchy of cobs, kernels, and husks that behave as a directly legible design logic.
This week, nature itself serves as a primary "artist" or system for my research. Maize (corn) provides a directly legible design logic for zero-waste modularity:
- The Cob: Acts as a central engineering core with repeated "sockets" for modular attachment.
- The Husk: Serves as a protective, zero-waste wrap that provides a global compressive preload, a principle that can be used to secure modular assemblies without the need for glue or extra fasteners.
- Phyllotaxis: The mathematical growth rules of the plant (like the Golden Angle or Fibonacci spirals) offer a blueprint for creating efficient, close-packed interlocking panels. Phyllotaxis & Golden Angle: The mathematical rules governing how plants place new organs to minimize interference often result in a "golden angle" (~137.5°). These rules are used to generate cylindrical lattices and rhombic tilings for interlocking panel systems.
- Voronoi & Delaunay Tessellations: By treating kernel centers as a point set, designers can use Voronoi diagrams to create natural module boundaries and Delaunay triangulations to define nearest-neighbor connection graphs for struts, hinges, or lacing paths.
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Maize also demonstrates "mode switching," where it intentionally changes its patterning regime (e.g., from 2-row to multi-row) to accommodate changing loads or diameters, a feature that can be integrated into advanced modular systems.
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Two images side-by-side
Inspirational Artists and How they Relate
- Neri Oxman: Her work investigates natural growth systems where structures expand from a central point outward, directly mirroring how a cob or cone grows.
- Iris van Herpen: She utilizes radial geometries and repeated laser-cut modules to create architectural garments that expand like shells or cones.
- Lucy McRae: McRae designs body extensions and structural wearables that grow outward from the body in radial or conical forms.
Tools¶
- TinyPNG
- 2D/3D modelling Rhino3D
- 2D modelling Illustrator
- 40 Watt Epilog Laser Engraver
- Corn Husks (recycked)
- Recycled Paper
- Fusion 360
Process and workflow¶
Originally I was interested in exploring what types of sustainable bio available materials could be successfully modified using the laser engraver and digital design.
I chose corn husks because they are locally available and could be modified in the machine to test my own understanding of locally sourced materials, calculating their needs (drying, any safety preparations to preserve material integrity, etc), and attempting this week's objectives.
Thankfully, exploring this initial concept worked wonderfully and I was able to not only make a slot in the dried corn husks but was also able to engrave a legible message as well. I hope to explore this further in the future and test designs that can pass pull and stretch tests. Currently, the corn husk piece cannot withstand these types of tests.
The laser cut nesting 2 was created using inkscape and a 40 watt Co2 laser engraving and cutting machine for my corn husk example.
In order to explore zero waste systems, modular configurations and interlocking connections I used corn as inspiration for this week.
Corn Husk Recipie - Drying and Gluing
¶-Recipie for Husk Bath
- Water
- Vinegar (1tbsp)
-Recipie for Glue
- Water
- Baking Soda
- Cooking
- Heat
- Application
- Apply glue to overlapping sides of corn husk edges
- Drying Time
- 12 hours or more
- May require drying assistance
- Ensure that the piece is dry before continuing to the laser cutter.
Corn Husk Recipie - Preparing Laser engraver
¶- Review laser capacity
- Make note of fire safety steps
- Ensure that machine operator understands to be present with the machine until the process is complete and all materials are safely removed from the laser bed.
Corn Husk Resiliance Testing
¶- The husk engraved very well
- The husk was cut cleanly with minimal husk damage surrounding the cut
- The husk was not able to be pulled or stretch upon first prototype.
My paper example was completed using construction paper and standard scissors.
This example performed really well under the pull tests and resulted in the piece maintaining it's connection.
As seen above, I included a locking mechanisim that may not be needed for security but currently provides additional security.
Textile Based Application - Preparing Laser engraver for Leather testing
¶- Review laser capacity
- Make note of fire safety steps
- Ensure that machine operator understands to be present with the machine until the process is complete and all materials are safely removed from the laser bed.
I was interested in exploring leather as the textile based application testing for future research on the use of whole animals in Fab Labs.
Textil Based Resilience Testing
¶- The leather cutting was an interesting process. It took me 3 tries to find settings that worked well for my material.
As seen below, the initial settings provided in my machine's materials library for the type and thickness of leather was too powerful. The machine suggests a speed of 5% and a power of 100%, resulting in an incomplete cut with a lot of scorching.
Next I adjusted those settings based on previous tests with cardboard. I adjusted the speed in an attempt at full seperation. This provided more seperation but did not reduce burn marks and did not provide full seperation.
Finally I adjusted the settings to a speed of 40% and a power of 50% as well as 3 passes instead of one pass. This allowed me to reduce the scorching as well as achieve seperation.
- The pull and stretch test proved to be another area that would require reiteration.
Final¶
Finally, I needed to upload my findings to OS Circular Fashion as well as begin building out my lab's local materials library.
How-To DIY Videos¶
learn how to upload to OS Circular Fashion and how to Upcycle a Book Case into a Materials Library
From Vimeo¶
Sound Waves from George Gally (Radarboy) on Vimeo.