my collection the Unified Shades

about

Unified Shades is my fashion collection i got inspired by Rwanda’s culture, land, and strong sense of unity. Rwanda is known as the Land of a Thousand Hills, a place where nature and people live closely together. This collection tells a story about how diversity, tradition, and sustainability can come together to create beauty.

UNIFIED

The name Unified Shades represents two powerful ideas. Unified means togetherness, peace, and shared identity.

SHADES

Shades refers to different colors, tones, people, cultures, and experiences. Just like natural dyes create many different shades even when using the same source, people are different but connected. This idea reflects Rwanda’s values of unity, healing, and moving forward together.

References

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Imigongo

👉 AFAR article on traditional Imigongo art: https://www.afar.com/magazine/from-the-ashes-rwandas-traditional-imigongo-art-is-on-the-rise

👉 News article about revival of Imigongo in Rwanda: https://english.aawsat.com/culture/4951826-reviving-traditional-art-form-rwanda-after-genocide

👉 Tourism info including Imigongo craft: https://serengetinationalparksafaris.com/rwanda-culture-and-people/

Overview of Natural Dyes in Rwanda

Introduction

Natural dyeing in Rwanda is deeply connected to nature, agriculture, and traditional knowledge. Long before synthetic dyes were introduced, Rwandan communities used plants, soils, and organic waste to color textiles, baskets, and everyday materials. These dyeing practices were simple, local, and sustainable, reflecting a strong relationship between people and their environment.

Today, natural dyes are being rediscovered as part of sustainable fashion, environmental protection, and cultural preservation.

Sources of Natural Dyes in Rwanda

Rwanda’s fertile land and rich biodiversity provide many natural dye sources. Common materials include:

1. Coffee Skins and Beans

Coffee is one of Rwanda’s most important crops. The skins and beans produce warm brown, beige, and earthy tones. Using coffee waste for dyeing supports sustainability by reducing agricultural waste and adding value to local resources.

1. Onion Skins

Onion skins are widely used in households and markets. They produce shades of yellow, gold, and light brown. This dye source represents reuse and low-cost natural dyeing, making it accessible for small-scale artisans.

1. Leaves, Bark, and Roots

Various local plants provide green, brown, and grey tones. Leaves and bark are often boiled to extract color, following traditional methods passed down through generations.

1. Soil and Clay

In some regions, colored soil and clay are used for artistic and decorative purposes, similar to techniques seen in Imigongo art. These earth pigments influence textile color inspiration, even when not directly applied to fabric.

Traditional Knowledge and Craft

Natural dyeing knowledge in Rwanda has traditionally been shared orally within families and communities. Women artisans, basket weavers, and craftspeople played a key role in preserving these techniques. The process often involved patience, observation, and respect for natural cycles such as seasons and plant growth.

These practices align with slow fashion principles—working carefully, using local materials, and minimizing waste.

Flax Fabric (Linen) — Material Overview

Introduction

Flax fabric, commonly known as linen, is one of the oldest textiles in the world. It is made from the fibers of the flax plant (Linum usitatissimum). Linen has been used for thousands of years because of its strength, breathability, and natural beauty. Today, flax fabric is valued in sustainable fashion due to its low environmental impact and long lifespan.

Origin of Flax

The flax plant grows best in cool and temperate climates. Almost every part of the plant is used, making it a highly efficient crop. The fibers are taken from the stem of the plant and transformed into yarn, which is then woven into linen fabric.

Production Process

The process of making flax fabric includes:

Harvesting – Flax is pulled from the ground to keep fibers long

Retting – Natural decomposition using water or dew to separate fibers

Breaking & Scutching – Removing woody parts

Hackling – Combing fibers to make them smooth

Spinning & Weaving – Turning fibers into fabric

This process is largely mechanical and can be done with minimal chemical use.

Properties of Flax Fabric

Flax (linen) has many natural qualities:

Highly breathable and cool

Stronger when wet

Long-lasting and durable

Naturally antibacterial

Absorbs moisture quickly

Biodegradable

These properties make linen ideal for warm climates like Rwanda.

Flax Fabric and Sustainability

Flax is considered one of the most sustainable fibers because:

It requires less water than cotton

It grows with minimal pesticides

Almost no part of the plant is wasted

Linen is biodegradable and recyclable

Because of these qualities, flax aligns strongly with eco-conscious and slow fashion practices.

Flax Fabric and Natural Dyeing

Flax fabric works very well with natural dyes. Its cellulose fiber structure allows dyes from plants, coffee, and onion skins to bond effectively. Linen produces soft, earthy, and natural shades that age beautifully over time.

This makes flax fabric perfect for collections like Unified Shades, where color variation and organic aesthetics are important.

Natural Dyeing Process (for Flax / Linen Fabric)

1. Fabric Preparation (Scouring)

Before dyeing, the flax (linen) fabric must be cleaned. This step removes dust, oils, and factory finishes that can block the dye from entering the fibers.

Process:

Wash the fabric in warm water

Use mild natural soap or soda ash

Rinse well and keep the fabric wet

Purpose: This helps the fabric absorb the dye evenly.

2. Mordanting the Fabric

A mordant is a natural or mineral substance that helps the dye stick to the fabric and improves color durability.

Common mordants used:

Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate)

Tannins (from plants, tea, or bark)

Process:

Dissolve the mordant in warm water

Soak the fabric for 1–2 hours

Rinse lightly or air-dry

Purpose: Mordanting improves color strength and prevents fading.

WH questions

Who

This project is developed by me as a Fabricademy student. It is created for designers, researchers, and communities interested in sustainable fashion, textile experimentation, and responsible material use.

What

The project is a fashion collection made of six outfits, all produced using linen fabric. The outfit will be dyed using a natural dye process, and the garments are designed to show variation in form while maintaining visual unity through material and color.

When

This project is developed during the Fabricademy final project phase, following the skills and knowledge gained throughout the course.

Where

The research, dyeing, and garment development are carried out within a Fabricademy-supported lab environment and a local textile context.

Why

The project aims to explore alternative dyeing methods that reduce environmental impact and encourage sustainable practices in fashion. By working with linen and natural dye, the collection demonstrates how thoughtful material choices and processes can lead to responsible and meaningful fashion design.

Moodboard

Collect images to give insight in your vision: colors, shapes, sounds, images, words..