6. COMPUTIONAL COUTURE¶
INSPIRATION¶
Inspiration on 3D-printing for costume & fahsion design
- Dita’s Gown – A 2013 collaboration by Studio Francis Bitonti, Michael Schmidt, and Shapeways producing a 3D-printed evening dress for burlesque artist Dita von Teese.
- Holobiont Dress– A 2021 3D-printed fashion piece designed by Iris van Herpen.
- Yvonne Dicketmüller’s 3D Costume Work – Experiments with 3D printing in costume design.
- Fold the Inter-fashionality Project – 3D printing project by Mingjing Lin and Tsai-Chun Huang creating innovative opera costumes for Farewell My Concubine with a flexible textile called Flexa Black.
- 3D-printed armor created by Wojciech Dziedzic and Tomasz Dabert for the opera The Conquest of Mexico at the Royal Theatre Madrid in 2015.
Inspiration on Parametric Design
Parametric design for textiles uses algorithms and adjustable parameters to generate adaptable designs that can be used for fashion or costume design. This method enables quick adjustment of patterns or designs to fit specific body shapes, functional needs, or aesthetic preferences. As a costume designer, this approach gives me the possibility to quickly change designs to suit different body shapes or to alter the aesthetic according to any parameter I choose. It allows me to experiment and make adjustments without having to change the whole design.
3D PRINTING FOR TEXTILES¶
Methods for Printing with Fabric¶
In general, there are limitations when working with 3D printing and textiles related to the size of the print bed. Depending on the size of the print bed you have, the design must be planned accordingly.
- Chainmail Fabrics – It is possible to print chainmail patterns consisting of interlocked elements that function like a fabric. These elements can be individually adjusted.
- Printing on Fabrics
- Sandwich Technique – This technique involves printing directly on fabrics. It works best with fabrics that have low density. Two layers are printed first, then the fabric is placed on top, and printing continues so that the fabric is sandwiched between the 3D printed layers. This method is most effective with fabrics like tulle or loose weaves, where the layers bond through the fabric.
- Printing on mesh - Another possibility is to work with mesh by stretching it over the print bed and printing on it with TPU. When the fabric is loosened, it squeezes together into a specific shape.
PrusaSlicer¶
We used the software PrusaSlicer to prepare the files for 3D printing
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Printer configuration:
- In the Settings, select the correct printer model you will use.
- Each G-code must be generated specifically for the chosen printer.
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Importing models:
- Export the model from Rhino as an stl. file.
- Import the STL into PrusaSlicer.
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Filament setup:
- Add Ultrafuse TPU 95A to the filament selection list in PrusaSlicer.
- Use appropriate temperature and speed profiles for flexible materials.
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Print model example:
- Chainmail fabric with hexagonal pattern (available at the provided link).
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Print Settings overview:
- The Print Settings tab in the main interface controls the print height and other parameters.
- Switch from Beginner to Expert mode to unlock advanced options.
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Key print parameters:
- Layer Height:Defines printing resolution (thinner layers = higher detail).
- Side Walls:Adjust the number of perimeter layers.
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Printing Infill Only: Set
- Solid Layers (Top): 0
- Solid Layers (Bottom): 0
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Skirt:mAdjust the number of loops printed around the object to prime the nozzle.
- Brim: Enable if the part needs better adhesion to the print bed.
Testing Prints¶
Prusa Core One¶
- Filament: generic PLA
- printing a chainmail
Printing Instructions:
- Unload filament if any remains in the printer.
- Load filament (PLA):
- Insert the filament through the guiding tube until it reaches the sensor.
- The printer will automatically draw it in.
- Confirm that the filament color is correct.
- Clean the print bed and ensure it is properly aligned and not touching the printer box walls.
- Insert the USB drive with your print file.
- If the printer asks for calibration, ignore the prompt.
- Ensure the top ventilation is open.
- Select the file you wish to print.
- Wait as the machine heats up and begins printing.
- Wait until the first layer is printing to check that the print is working properly
- After printing take out the print - carefull the bed might be still hot.
- Unload filament and store it dry.
Prusa i3 MK3S¶
- Filament: TPU
- create pause after printing two layxers at PrusaSlicer when setting the up the file for the g-code
- changing the nozzle temperature
- testing printing on a tull fabric
Printing Instructions
- Prepare the filament:
- We used color.changing eSUN Filament
- Keep the filament in sealed boxes to prevent moisture absorption.
- Mount the filament on the roller so it rolls smoothly.
- Cut the filament at an angle before inserting it into the tube.
- Load the filament:
- Insert a short length of filament, then select Load Filament.
- Choose Flex material type — the nozzle will begin heating.
- When loading, ensure the filament extrudes with the correct color.
- Prepare the printer:
- Clean the print surface with alcohol using a paper towel.
- Remove any filament residue and avoid touching the cleaned surface with your hands.
- Align the print bed carefully; adjust screws so the bed is level.
- Start the print:
- When ready, press the knob to load filament fully.
- Insert the SD card and choose the file to print.
- The printer will calibrate automatically and begin printing.
- Add the fabric layer:
- After the first two layers finish printing, the printer will pause.
- Quickly place the fabric on the bed while it is still hot (45°C).
- Ensure the fabric is smooth, flat, and secured with tape.
- Avoid moving the print bed, then resume the print** immediately.
- Printing settings:
- TPU prints at a slower speed — preconfigured in the settings.
Printing with PHA¶
I wanted to test the PHA filament because sustainability is an important aspect for me. PHA (Polyhydroxyalkanoate) filament is a polymer material produced and decomposed by microorganisms (bacteria) and is biodegradable under normal composting conditions. I used the filament allPHA from colorfabb.
To run the test, I printed two 2x2 cm rectangles. Irja already carried out a similar test last year — you can find her documentation here — and she gave me some helpful advice. Because PHA is very sticky, I had to apply tape to the print bed to remove the printed object more easily. The tape from the company elma worked very well.
In the end, the cold bed worked better. The PHA tended to curl slightly upwards, but under the microscope, this effect was slightly less pronounced when using a cold print bed.
PHA Printing Tests Summary
| Parameter | Test 1 (Cold Bed) | Test 2 (Hot Bed 60 °C) |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzle Temperature | 200 °C | 200 °C |
| Print Speed | 60 mm/s | 60 mm/s |
| Bed Temperature | Cold | 60 °C |
| Fan Speed | 100% | 100% |
| Bed Surface | Tape | Tape |
| Result Observation | Less warping, good adhesion | Slight upward warping observed |
Parametric Design¶
Parametric Pattern Design - with extruded vonoroi cell walls¶
For creating parametric desing I used grasshopper in Rhino.
I wanted to print a prototype of a parametric pattern — a design that fits the shape of a T-shirt and can be easily adjusted. The pattern contains an attractor curve. The closer a point within the pattern is to this curve, the smaller and higher its Voronoi cell becomes. By changing the shape of the attractor curve, you can influence the structure of the Voronoi cells within the pattern. Since the design is parametric, the parameters automatically update according to the attractor curve.
You can find the Rhino file1 with explanations in the Grasshopper code to better understand the parameter setup. I used and adapted an example file created by Asli. The main concept is similar to the Voronoi principle shown in this video, but because I wanted to apply it to a pattern instead of a rectangle, some challenges arose in shaping the edges of the pattern properly.
I printed the pattern with PHA using the settings tested above with a cold bed which worked very well.
Parametric Pattern Design - with extruded vonoroi infill¶
I wanted to create another print the other way around. So, I changed the parameters in Grasshopper to have the infill of the Voronoi cells extruded instead of the walls. You can check the Rhino and Grasshopper files, where I explain how I did this. As I’m not very familiar with Grasshopper, it was difficult for me to find the component that controls the offset or inner part, but with Asli’s help, I was able to figure it out and label the code for a better understanding of the parameters and components.
This time, I was printing on organza fabric. Therefore, I added a pause after the second layer in PrusaSlicer to sandwich the fabric between the 3D-printed layers. During the printing process, the printer paused, and I adjusted the fabric on the first layer by taping it down (trying not to move the bed), and then continued printing.
