3. Circular Open Source Fashion¶

The individual module¹ and array² for laser-cutting files are available for download on OS Circular Fashion Library.

References & Inspiratation¶

My inspiration this week includes weaving and its role in 3D textile manipulation. I found examples of fashion and textile design that utilize the over-and-under layering of fabric strips or string. Interlocking modules can create intriguing textures and dimensions in a garment or textile.

Deflected Double Weave structure, Elisabeth Hill and Madelyn van der Hoogt
Wide Bracelet, Iris Nijenhuis
LOOP by Selma Durand
Acoustic Landscapes by Robin Pleun Maas
Bags by textile designer Jennifer Barrett
Look 3, Kei Ninomiya Spring/Summer 2018

Fabricademy Participants¶

Research and Ideation¶

weekly assignment

Include some inspiration: research on artists or projects that work with modules and zero waste systems Document, Design and prototype with paper and scissors modular configurations and interlocking connections Document, Design and prototype digitally your modular configurations and interlocking connections in 2D Document the process of testing and laser cutting your designs, including the machine settings, material type and thickness Laser cut the modules. Create a modular or seamless garment, showing that the connection is well-designed and holds the pull/stretch. Document the assembly process and tests Upload the fabrication PDF file at oscircularfashion.com, in 1:1 scale accompanied by 1-5 pictures (preferably in white background) Submit some of the modules to the analog or digital material library of the lab. (Recommended size 20cm x 20cm) (extra credit)

Often, I feel like my creative process starts as me seeing a finished idea in my mind, and then deciding and following the steps needed to get to the finished product. I tend to work towards an image (mental or sketched) of a completed project. This week, I struggled to immediately envision a final product to work towards. So to move past that creative block, I gave myself three rules:

Use interlocking modules
Make it zero waste
Incorporate the action of weaving something together

Tools¶

Rhino 90 day trial
Cricut Maker 3 and Cricut Design Space Software (Specific to our FabLab)
Laser cutter and Lightburn (specific to our FabLab)

Process and workflow¶

Designing the module¶

I started with drawing and paper prototypes. The first thing I did was draw how I thought my module would behave. My first paper sample was hand-cut, and I explored ways to interlock squares that would hold a lattice/grid in place.

I moved on to designing the module in Rhino. I exported my design as a .svg and used a Cricut vinyl cutter machine in the lab to test my digital designed module¹ with paper. I made a few changes to work with the fabric I chose.

Material Tests¶

There were neon pink and dark teal scuba knits that were both 3mm thick. I made several samples to test how wide the holes needed to be. I tested both colors to see the effects of the laser on the color. I noticed that the pink fabric had visible burning. The laser cut fabric also retains a burnt plastic smell after cutting.

2.5 mm and 2 mm were too loose. The first video clip shows that the 1.5mm hole stretched but held together, and flattened out nicely. The second clip shows that 1mm holds and stretches well, but is too tight and causes the modules to sit together at a right angle.

Scale of the module

Scaling the whole module changes the size of the hole, while your material thickness doesn’t actually change. You must change the scale of the hole to be 1.5mm afterwards.

I deleted one of the rectangular holes after scaling. On the remaining hole, I first used the Scale1D command and selected the points that define the height of the rectangle. I then used the Rotate command to move a second rectangle around the center point of the module to the opposite corner.

Laser parameters

Speed (mm/sec) = 100 Power Max (%) = 45 Power Min (%) = 15

Final Project Assembly¶

The module can be used to make any garment or textile based on a grid pattern. For a drawstring bag, I laser cut two rectangular panels and interlocked them together at the edges. To “weave” my modules around the grid, I interlocked the modules in front of the grid going in the vertical direction, and behind the grid in the horizontal direction. My planned grid was 8 x 12 squares², but I ended up using panels that were 6 x 12 squares. For both panels to create a tube with right sides facing out, my first plan didn’t work. I used the squares from the columns I had removed to join both panels together at the edges. Then I joined the panels along the bottom edge. Here, I interlocked the squares facing inward to create a flat bottom for my bag. I picked up some cord and cord locks from a local fabric and sewing supply shop and wove it through the top row of modules to get an even fold/scrunch when the drawstring is pulled. I also used heat-shrink tubing to seal the ends of the cord. The bag can hold lightweight materials, and I used it to carry some yarn and a lightweight rain jacket today!