4. BioChromes

Research

This weeks topic is all about colors! We are to use natural materials to extract dyes out of it. I am taken aback to how the history of dye came to be and how it was prepared before use of readily processed mordants. I wannna link this weeks activity by delving into the history of traditional dyes and tannins in Kenya to better understand how it shaped the evolution of modern dye extraction.

Across Kenya, natural color traditions span coast, highlands, and arid north: on the Swahili coast, dyers fermented leaves of local Indigofera to make indigo vats for deep-blue cottons that circulated in trade; coastal artisans also boiled tannin-rich barks—like mangrove and other hardwoods—to produce durable browns and near-blacks used to color and preserve fishing nets, leather, and cordage. In the eastern highlands, especially among Taita, Mijikenda, and Kamba makers, chopped barks, roots, fruits, and leaves were simmered to dye sisal and other fibers in reds, browns, greens, and blacks, often assisted by wood ash or alum, then woven into patterned baskets. In arid zones (e.g., Somali communities around Garissa), decoctions from local trees supplied dyes and tanning liquor for leatherwork. While Maasai and Samburu are best known for red ochre (a mineral, not a plant dye) mixed with fat for hair and body adornment, plant dyes were common in utilitarian textiles and craft. Today, many of these practices persist in basketry and small-scale textile studios, with renewed interest from designers seeking lower-toxicity, culturally grounded color.

The Kenyan flag is represented by 4 different colors;

• Black- people
• White- peace
• Red- blood
• Green- fertile land.

Traditional dyes in Kenya were primarily natural and plant-based, extracted from leaves, barks, roots, fruits, flowers, lichens, and soil.

Key traditional sources:

🌿 Red ochre, a mineral (eng'are in Maa): From iron-rich soil, often mixed with animal fat or clarified butter to make it sticky. Applied on body and hair.

🌳 Acacia bark and pods: Rich in tannins, producing brown to reddish hues.

🌰 Saba (Acacia nilotica): Known for deep browns and used in leather tanning.

🐘 Charcoal and ash: Used to create greys and blacks.

The Maasai community are known to be the most culturally resilient groups in Kenya.They used natural tannins from tree barks to fix dyes and color fabrics as well as to tan hides for clothing and accessories.

Red is the color most associated with the Maasai identity; it represents not just protection but also connection to cattle and tradition. Maasai community are known to produce Shuka- a vibrant checked cloth. Originally, the Maasai did not wear fabric but skins from cattle and goats, tanned and dyed using tannin-rich bark.

Preparation for fabric

1. Soak hide material in water
2. Soak in acacia tannin
3. Apply ochre mixed with oil or fat- to help preserve both the hide and the pigment. Some of the colors were sourced from:
4. Red-ochre, red clay
5. White-chalk, white ash
6. Green- barks, leaves

preparation for hair

1. Grind red ochre finely
2. Warm animal fat like ghee to soften
3. Mix to smooth paste
4. Braid hair into many fine plaits and work paste through the braids.

Weekly assignment

My first step was to ensure all tools and materials to be used for the week were available.

Tools

• Pot
• Measuring cylinder
• Motor and Pestle
• Knife
• Spoons
• Cups
• Filter paper

Materials

Cinnamon bark

Beetroot

Blueberries

Process and Workflow

Hibiscus dye extraction

??? 1. Wash the flowers to remove any dirt

1. Add 300ml of water in a pot

2. Simmer the mixture for 30 minutes while stirring occasionally.

3. Allow the mixture to cool then filter using filter paper.

Application on cotton fabric

a)With dye bath only b) With Sodium bicarbonate c) With lemon juice only d) With Iron e) With sodium bicarbonat+ lemon juice

Mango leaves dye extract

1. Wash and blend mango leaves
2. Add 500ml of water in a pot
3. Simmer the mixture for 30 minutes
4. Allow mixture to cool and then filter.

Application on cotton fabric

a) With dye bath only

b) With sodium bicarbonate

c) With Lemon juice only

d) With Iron

Tannin extraction

I decided to extract tannin from natural plant material. The tannin extract was purposefully to use as a surface finish for wood.

I used aqueous method of extraction on cinnamon bark. 1. Clean the cinnamon bark to remove dirt 2. Weigh 50 gram of cinnamon bark 3. Heat 300ml of water (not boiling) 4. Add cinnamon bark and simmer for 30 minutes (avoid boiling to to prevent tannin degradation) 5. Let the mixture cool and filter using filter paper 6. Store in the fridge if not immediately used.

Blueberry extract

I used acetone as my solvent because it was more affordable and accessible than ethanol.

1. Freeze and thaw-place fresh berries in boiling water for 30s to allow skin to loose, transfer the berries to ice water to stop cooking and allows skin to separate.
2. Mash and soak in 70% acetone for 24hrs
3. Stir occasionally
4. Filter the extract.

Application on wood

References & Inspiration

• Inks & folds - Germarillis Ruiz - FabLab Bcn

• Image reference

centered image with credits/reference

• Download reference

Links to reference files, PDF, booklets,

Process and workflow

My first step was too..... Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam, quis nostrud exercitation ullamco laboris nisi ut aliquip ex ea commodo consequat. Duis aute irure dolor in reprehenderit in voluptate velit esse cillum dolore eu fugiat nulla pariatur. Excepteur sint occaecat cupidatat non proident, sunt in culpa qui officia deserunt mollit anim id est laborum.

Recipes

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1. recipe: banana indigo ↩