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10. Textile Scaffold

During Week 10 we discovered technical textiles have various applications, a.o. agrotech, building, clothes, geotech, sports. In this class we used textiles for composites, fabric formwork, polymerisation, solidification, crystallization,(bio)composites & agglomerates.

Research

describe what you see in this image Cover Art- Nadia Attmore

This week expands into my ongoing study of the human body as a structural and emotional place within fashion. The symbolism of tears, beauty, suffering, and the release of emotions, that’s been interpreted through crystallization and biofabricated materials, is the source of my research and inspiration this week. Within my research I studied how transitions can resemble how emotion appears in the body. Although, I didn’t physically create a garment this week I instead used this as a prototype in the coming weeks for the final project.

References & Inspiration

The idea that the mind is the source of creativity, trauma, memory, and imagination is also incorporated into the brain mold composite. I wanted to convey the idea of internal growth, and how feelings, experiences, and our thoughts as beings blossom, die, and renew within us by combining dried flowers into the mold.

My growing interest in how fashion may reflect emotional factors while being rooted in materials experimentation is continued by the way these pieces collectively frame the body not only as a physical form but also as an area where pain and beauty are aligned.

Project Art Inspiration

Design by Nadia Attmore

Tools

Crystalliization Samples 

- Borax
- Boiling water
- Mesh tulle fabric
- Fringe trim
- Measuring soons/cups

Brain Composite & Mold 

- 3D printed brain form
- Bio silicone miixture * gelatin,lyceriin, water * 
- Dried flowers
- Mold casting 
- Resin

Process and workflow

Part 1: Crystallization Textile

In order to achieve heavier crystallization, I started by making a supersaturated borax solution by tripling the base recipe and adding 9 tablespoons of borax to 3 cups of hot water in each container. To allow the fibers to be an anchor for the crystallization to take place, I used mesh tulle and fringe trim soaking them in the solution. I left the materials in the mixture for 24 hours, the solution cooled and the crystals began to form on the trim and tulle. I chose one of each material to go through a 2nd crystallization cycle for another 24 hours, this time doubling the base recipe using 6 tablespoons of borax and 2 cups of boiling water.

describe what you see in this image

Cover Art- Nadia Attmore

Part 2: Brain Composite Cast

I focused on turning the human brain cast into a symbolic representation during the 2nd phase. A bio silicone mixture based on gelatine, glycerin, and water was used to make the mold, which helped me get the finer details of the original 3D printed brain. I'm still utilizing resin as the main structural material for the brain piece, but this time I'm adding a composite layer that represents both organic growth and deep feelings.

My initial 3D printed brain mold is where the process starts. In order to create the basic structure and capture the many details of the brain, my first pour will be a layer of clear resin. I will put the 3D printed brain model back into the resin before the cures, which will create a second negative space inside the mold. This negative area serves as a figurative inside, a place for spiritual change, memories, and emotion. The flowers inside are meant to resemble growth, such as ideas sprouting and memories planting seed within the brain's folds also.

A thin layer of kombucha leather, made with scoby grown with red wine rather than regular tea, will be added between the floral layer and the last resin pour. This approach gives a gentle, natural pink or cherry tone. The flowers and kombucha leather will be sealed within the brain mold by a final layer of resin that will seal everything in.

3D Printed Brain

Ingredients & Recipes

    * Base recipe- 3 tbs borax, 1 cup boiling water
    * Tripled recipe- 9 tbs borax, 3 cup boiling water
    * Doubled recipe- 6 tbs borax, 2 cup boiling water

Step 1: Bring the required amount of water to a full boil using a kettle or stovetop. The water must be boiling to properly dissolve the borax.

Step 2: 

    Mix the Borax Solution
    Pour the boiling water into a heat safe glass or ceramic container.

    Slowly add the borax one tablespoon at a time, stirring continuously.

Step 3: Stir the mixture for 2–3 minutes until the borax is fully dissolved.

    The solution should appear clear with no visible granules at the bottom. *If borax settles, the water was not hot enough.*

Step 4: 

    Cut and shape the tulle fabric before placing it into the solution.

    The fabric should be clean and dry to allow crystals to adhere evenly.

Step 5: 

    Carefully place the fabric into the borax solution. As the solution cools, crystals begin to form and attach to the fibers of the tulle.

Step 6: Allow the fabric to remain undisturbed for 6–12 hours.

    Crystal growth becomes more visible as the solution cools and evaporates.

Step 7:

    Remove the fabric once desired crystal growth is achieved.

    Place it on a non stick surface and allow it to air dry for 12–24 hours

Kombucha x Bio-Resin

Ingredients

    96 grams of gelatin powder
    serves as the polymer, causing it to solidify.
    16 grams of glycerine
    serves as a plasticizer, bonding with the gelatine to give it flexibility.
    480 ml/gr of water
    To dissolve and combine the plasticizer and polymer

Tools

    Stove or Hot Plate
    Spoon
    Silicone Mold 
    Pot

Prep

Weigh the ingredients

Once the mold is ready, find a spot where you can leave it for a while 

Combining and dissolving the components

Bring the water to a boil. If you want to use color, you can add natural coloring, glycerine, and gelatin

To prevent bubbles, stir extremely slowly and softly

Cooking

For at least 20 minutes or up to an hour, simmer the mixture at 60 - 80 degrees while stirring gently. When bubbles start to form, turn it down since you don't want the liquid to move or boil.

A longer cooking time will significantly lessen the casted part's reduction by allowing more water to evaporate. The liquid will be thicker. Use this recipe to cast greater volumes and solids by evaporating a significant amount of water until it becomes extremely thick. Sometimes it makes sense to reheat and melt scraps because they have already lost a lot of water.

Casting

Allow the liquid to cool for a few minutes, or until it gels somewhat but is still pourable

To prevent bubbles, cast slowly into the mold

Pour from the center and let the liquid spread out

Store the mold in a cool location with plenty of ventilation, such as next to an open window, to dry. In addition to accelerating the drying process, a warmer environment can promote bacterial and fungal growth.

After four to eight hours, remove and place the mold on its side so that air may enter from both sides

To preserve the shape as much as possible while using a flexible mold, let it dry without releasing

CNC Milling

I started by manipulating a basic mesh plane in Blender to create a 3D design. After finishing it, I loaded it into Apsire and exported it as an STL file.

Using Aspire

    Open Aspire and start a new job

    Enter the exact size of your wood length, width, thickness

    Set the Z zero to the top of the material

    Import your 3D model file STL or OBJ

    Scale the model so it fits inside the wood dimensions

    Rotate the model so the flat side is facing down

    Move the model so it sits centered on the material

    Make sure the model does not go past the material thickness

Toolpaths

    Select your cutting tool

    Choose a 3D roughing toolpath first

    Set the cut depth to match your model height

    Preview the toolpath to check for errors

    Add a 3D finishing toolpath for details

    Preview again to confirm the final result

    Save the toolpaths for the ShopBot machine

Using ShopBot

    Open ShopBot software

    Turn on the ShopBot machine

    Load the saved toolpath file

    Zero the X and Y axes to the corner of the wood

    Zero the Z axis on top of the material

    Check that the correct bit is installed

    Start the job and stay near the machine

    Stop the machine if anything looks wrong

Running CNC

    Secure the wood firmly to the bed

    Wear eye and ear protection

    Keep hands away from the cutting area

    Let the machine finish before removing material

RESULTS

The borax crystals developed more densely and clearly on the second crystallization attempt, especially along the tulle's structure. This attempt resulted in parts of the tulle resting on the container's sides since the fabric was fully submerged in the solution. This affected the crystals density and growth layout but did not stop crystallization.

This process showed me that more uniform crystal formation would result from suspending the textile rather than letting it remain in the container. To keep the cloth in place and keep it from coming into contact with the container walls, I would/should create a simple support device in the future, like a frame or suspension system. This modification would improve the textile's function as a structural scaffold and enable crystals to grow more evenly.

I used the CNC machine for the first time, and I'm happy with the outcome. The  wave geometry was properly rendered as a physical surface keeping its distinct structure by the CNC milled panel. Layered outlines that highlight the surface are made clear by the grooves.


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