7. BioFabricating Materials¶

Research¶

Biomaterials are substances derived from biological sources or engineered to interact with biological systems, initially for medical purposes but increasingly applied in industries like fashion. In the context of textiles and apparel, biomaterials serve as sustainable alternatives to traditional, high-impact materials like petroleum-based synthetics or animal leather.

Designer Neri Oxman has a Creativity Cycle, called the "Krebs Cycle of Creativity" (referencing the biological metabolic cycle), posits that creativity is a continuous, iterative loop where four distinct, but interconnected domains build upon and feed into one another.

•   Science (Knowledge): Informs our understanding of the world through rigorous research, observation, and experimentation, producing knowledge.
•   Engineering (Utility): Applies the knowledge gained from science to create practical solutions, products, and systems, focusing on utility and performance.
•   Design (Culture): Imbues those practical solutions from Engineering with cultural significance, meaning, and experience, focusing on aesthetics, form, function, and user interaction, which generates culture.
•   Art (Perception): Questions, challenges, and reframes our perceptions of the world and our relationship with it, inspiring new lines of inquiry and driving the cycle back towards science for deeper understanding, resulting in perceptions.

It emphasizes that true innovation requires a holistic, interdisciplinary approach rather than working in isolated domains.

The cycle is a continuous flow. It emphasizes that true innovation requires a holistic, interdisciplinary approach rather than working in isolated domains.

Bio-Innovation in Fashion¶

The fabrication of biomaterials (materials wholly or partially derived from biological sources, like plants, waste, or microorganisms) and biotextiles (textile products using these biomaterials) for fashion is a prime example of this Creativity Cycle in action.

They are generally categorized in the fashion context as:

•   Biobased Materials: Materials that are wholly or partially derived from renewable biomass sources, like plants, trees, or agricultural waste. Examples include traditional materials like cotton and wool, as well as new innovations.
•   Biofabricated (or Bioassembled) Materials: Materials crafted or grown by living organisms (like fungi, bacteria, or yeast) through processes like fermentation, where the organism essentially builds the material.
•   Biosynthetic Materials: Synthetic materials, such as bio-PET or bio-nylon, that are chemically converted from biological sources (like biomass or plant sugar) instead of virgin fossil fuels.

The fashion industry is heavily invested in biomaterials to address its significant environmental footprint, particularly concerning waste, water use, and pollution from conventional materials. Implementation focuses on creating lower-impact, circular, and ethical alternatives to common fibers and leathers.

Applications¶

The widespread adoption of these materials, however, still faces challenges related to scaling production, achieving cost competitiveness, and ensuring clarity in their sustainability claims. Biomaterials based on ingredients like glycerin, agar (agar-agar), and gelatin (grenatine) are a popular area of DIY and professional sustainable design. These are often used to create bio-textiles that are biodegradable.

Material Components and Function¶

General Bioplastic Production Process¶

The basic process for creating these bioplastics involves a few key steps:

1.  Mixing: Dry ingredients (alginate/gelatin/agar) are mixed with the liquid ingredients (water, glycerin, and optional dyes/fillers) in a pot.
2.  Heating: The mixture is heated, often up to 60-80° C (or simmering for agar-agar) with continuous stirring, until the gelling agents fully dissolve and the mixture thickens to a syrupy or honey-like consistency.
3.  Casting: The liquid is carefully poured onto a flat surface or into a mold.6
4.  Drying/Curing: The material is left to air dry in a well-ventilated area.7 Drying time can vary from a few days to over a week, depending on the thickness and the amount of glycerin used.

Note: The ratio of the polymer (alginate/agar/gelatin) to the plasticizer (glycerin) determines the final material's properties—more glycerin results in a softer, more flexible, but sometimes stickier and slower-to-dry material.

Mycelium Leather¶

Mycelium is the vegetative root structure of fungi, consisting of a dense network of branching, thread-like cells called hyphae. Mycelium leather is a bio-fabricated material and a sustainable, vegan alternative to traditional leather.

Production:¶

The mycelium is grown on a substrate, typically low-cost agricultural byproducts like sawdust, straw, or other lignocellulosic waste.

1.  Inoculation: The substrate is inoculated with fungal spores.
2.  Incubation/Growth: The mycelium grows for a period (often 1-2 weeks), binding the substrate into a dense, interconnected mat.
3.  Harvesting and Processing: The mat is harvested, treated (often with heat and chemicals like polyethylene glycol or citric acid for plasticizing and cross-linking), and then pressed and dried to create a durable, leather-like sheet.

Properties:¶

It can exhibit properties similar to animal leather, including high density and tensile strength, and is entirely biodegradable. The final texture and performance can be fine-tuned by selecting different fungal species, adjusting the substrate, and modifying the post-processing treatments.

Kombusha Leather (Microbial Cellulose)¶

Kombucha leather is a leather substitute grown through the fermentation of sweetened tea. It's made from bacterial cellulose (BC), which is the thick, gelatinous layer produced by the SCOBY (Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast) used to brew Kombucha. The key cellulose-producing microorganism is typically a bacterium like Komagataeibacter xylinus.

Production¶

1.  Fermentation: The SCOBY is placed in a solution of sugared tea and left to ferment.17
2.  Growth: The bacteria synthesize an extracellular, pure nanocellulose layer on the surface of the liquid. This layer is the "kombucha leather" or KBC (Kombucha-derived Bacterial Cellulose).
3.  Harvesting and Drying: The cellulose mat is harvested, washed, and dried.

References & Inspiration¶

After hearing Cecilias's lecture I got inspired and wanted to know more and more.There are a lot of great designers that are working and innovating with biomaterials and doing fantastic things, but there are two Latin American designers that I follow in Instagram because I like their work, what they do and achieve.

Laura Messing: Visual Artist & Bio-Innovator¶

Laura Messing (born 1953 in Buenos Aires) is a prominent figure in the field of sustainable art and bio-innovation, blending her background in architecture and visual arts with materials research. Focus on Sustainable Art and Biomaterials

•   Motivation: Her recent work is driven by the realization that even art can be contaminating. She shifted her focus to creating installations and sculptures using materials that are non-polluting and aim for 100% domestic compostability.
•   Thematic Core: Her art centers on themes of environmental justice, climate change, and the relationship between humans and nature.
•   Technique: She often works with biodegradable materials in sculptures and installations, viewing the life cycle of the material (from creation to decomposition into fertile land) as part of the artwork's purpose.

Projects and Initiatives¶

•   MOEBIO® (Green Company): In 2020, she founded MOEBIO®, a green company and innovative project dedicated to researching and developing sustainable materials.
•   Bioleather: MOEBIO® is particularly known for its bioleather project, which uses plant and bacterial cellulose (often from kombucha drink) as a non-polluting, non-extractivist, vegan, and biodegradable leather substitute.
•   Education: She is also a teacher and lecturer who provides workshops and courses to diffuse knowledge about biomaterials, encouraging designers, artists, and architects to adopt sustainable production processes.

You can follow her on:

Laura Messing

David Cabra: Sustainable Designer & Biomaterials Researcher¶

He is a colombian designer and researcher focused on sustainable fashion and biomaterials. Is recognized for his work at the intersection of fashion design, sustainability, and materials science.

•   Biomaterials: He is passionate about developing and utilizing new, sustainable materials, specifically bioplastics and biofabrics, as revolutionary alternatives to traditional textiles and leather.
•   Circular Bio-economy: His work aligns with the principles of converting waste into valuable resources, improving the lifecycle of materials, and reducing reliance on non-renewable sources.
•   Holistic Design: He advocates for a holistic vision of design, bringing a "materials development" approach from a creative perspective (design and art) rather than just an engineering one.

Projects and Concepts¶

•   Project Carbo: An innovative project where he explores a potential solution for the escalating Sargassum (brown seaweed) issue. The project involves developing biofabrics and natural pigments, often using waste from woodworking and other industries.
•   Bioplastic Formula: He developed a bioplastic formula to encapsulate cellulosic and other waste, creating new materials that are designed for improved biodegradation.
•   Studio: He is currently working on the development of his new design studio specializing in new biomaterials and fashion, called OFFMATTER.

If you want to know more follow him on his instagram page:

David Cabra

I also digged into a lot of Fabricademy previous participants, seeing amazing things. Like:

Let's begin the journey¶

First of all I looked and opened Cecilia presentation and lecture. I looked for the recipes she gave us and gathered all the materials needed. Before I began doing my biotextiles, I blendered all the waste ingredients I had saved for this week (egg sheels, melon peel, avocado peel, pineapple peel, banana peel, tangarine peel, coffee and papaya peel). I don't know whether I will use them all, but I blended all anyway.

Materials and tools:¶

•   Alginate
•   Gelatin
•   Agar Agar
•   Glycerine
•   Sodium chloride
•   Sunflower oil
•   Natural dyes
•   Natural waste
•   Pot
•   Spoon
•   Scale
•   Tray
•   Wax paper
•   Blender

Procedure:¶

AGAR-AGAR¶

Agar-agar is a jelly-like substance, obtained from red algae. It is a compound known as a polysaccharide. It’s not water resistance and either is good with heat.

Recipes:¶

FLEXIBLE BIO-FOIL¶

Ingredients:¶

•   5 gr Agar
•   15 ml Glycerine
•   250 ml water

Dissolve the agar-agar in the hot water, pour the rest of the ingredients and cook for about 20 to 30 min approximately 80° C. Carefully stirring to avoid bubbles. Place the mixture on a flat surface and let it dry.

I don't know what happened but it didn´t work it is to sticky and as it dried bubbles appeared. I will try it again.

STRETCH BIO-FOIL¶

Ingredients:¶

•   3 gr Agar
•   15 ml Glycerine
•   400 ml Water

Dissolve the agar-agar in the hot water, pour the rest of the ingredients. For this recipe you will need to cook for 45 min at 80° C. It is important to stir constantly to get a better structure.

BIO PLASTIC¶

Ingredients:¶

•   4 gr Agar
•   25 ml Glycerine
•   400 ml Water

Dissolve the agar-agar in the hot water, pour the rest of the ingredients. It takes a lot of time to get it into a thicker honey like liquid. It is important to keep this in mind to get a better result.

AGAR COMPOSITE¶

This recipe I took it from Loes Boger. You can look it up at: Loes Bogers

Ingredients:¶

• 5 gr Agar • 15 gr Glycerine • 250 ml Water • A piece of textile large enough to fit over the mold • A mold or two.

Dissolve the ingredients in hot water. You can substitute part of the water with natural dye if you wish. Bring the mixture to a boil point, while stirring gently. Once the agar is completely dissolved, lower the temperature to 60/80 degrees, without bubbling.

Let the water evaporate for 40 min while you stir slowly and continuously. The thicker it becomes, thicker the foil will be and vice versa.

I decided to try it out on a female mannequin. I prepare it with plastic to avoid getting it dirty. Then I poured the textile in the mixture and when it was completely wet, I started modeling on to a kind of strapless. When I finished, I notice It hadn’t been enough so I made more mixture and added it with a 1” brush. I hope it will work.

Hear is a video of the textile. It has not dry completetly but the swrinkles are there. ai hope that when it totaly dries it will stay as in the manequin.

ALGINATE¶

Recipes:¶

FLEXIBLE THIN BIO-FOIL¶

Ingredients:¶

•   12 gr Alginate
•   30 ml Glycerine
•   400 ml water
•   10 ml Sodium Chloride hydrate
•   100 ml water.

Dissolve the alginate in the water, add the glycerine. Once you have it ready you should pour it on a syringe and let the foil drawn into the sodium chloride water

I couldn't get the yarns, they got sticky and mixed while I poor them into the water. I must try it again.

FLEXIBLE BIO-SHEET 6 YARNS¶

Ingredients:¶

•   12 gr Alginate
•   40 ml Glycerine
•   400 ml water
•   10 ml Sodium Chloride hydrate
•   100 ml water

Dissolve the alginate in the water, add the glycerine. Once you have it ready you should pour it down. It works when cast in sheets or extrude as yarns. You can get a thin sheet.

FLEXIBLE BIO-PLASTIC¶

Ingredients:¶

•   12 gr Alginate
•   20 ml Glycerine
•   10 ml Sunflower oil
•   200 ml water
•   10 ml Sodium Chloride hydrate
•   100 ml water

Dissolve the alginate in the water, add the glycerine. It is recommended to use a blender. Once you have it ready you should cast it in a thicker sheet, it will shrink in both size and thickness, but it will be strong and durable. You must leave it rest for 24 hours until all the bubbles disappear. I tried adding some natural pigments and with a stick spread it into the mixture before it dry.

Sodium Alginate is the sodium salt form of the alginic acid and gum mainly extracted form the cell walls of brown algae. You need to cure it with calcium chloride hydrate. This is a cold process. It is water resistance, but if you change the PH it starts to melt.

GELATINE BIOPLASTICS:¶

Gelatine is animal derived ingredient, made from the collagen present in bones and other parts of the animal. Gelatine bioplastics are crafted usually from powder, combined with glycerine and water. It is sensitive to heat and melts at 60° C. You can resolve it any time you want. It melts very easily, so it is not water resistance nor heat.

Ingredients:¶

• 48 gr Gelatine • 8 ml Glycerine • 250 ml Water

Mix all the ingredients into the water at 60° C until it is smooth and then boil at 100° C for 5 to 10 min.

Missing the video

BIO-PLASTIC¶

Ingredients:¶

•   48 gr Gelatine
•   12 ml Glycerine
•   240 ml Water

You can play with the amount of glycerine. It is great for composites ro mixtures with other powders or dry elements. In my case I used dry wasted peels.

Video missing

BIO-SILICONE¶

Ingredients:¶

•   48 gr Gelatine
•   12 ml Glycerine
•   240 ml Water

You have o heat water to melt the gelatine, and you can add more or less glycerine until you reach a 1:1 ration. Try to stir gently to avoid forming bubbles. prepare your molds before you pour the mixture in them.

missing one video

BIO-FOAM¶

Ingredientes:¶

• 48 gr Gelatine • 12 ml Glycerine • 240 ml Water • 10 ml Soap

You can use a compressor or a mixed electric foamer or a straw. These tools will help you form different sizes of bubbles air/gelatine ratio. I pour some natural dye colors and made bubbles of different sizes with a straw. At the beginning they satyed up, but in time the vanished.

KOMBUSHA BIO LEATHER¶

Commonly referred to as SCOBY leather or bacterial cellulose, is an innovative, sustainable, and animal-free material grown for use as a textile or leather alternative in fashion. It is a biotextile because it is literally grown by living organisms.

The Growth Process (Biofabrication):

1.  The culture is fed with a mixture of sweet tea (water, tea, and sugar).
2.  As the yeast ferments the sugar, the bacteria (specifically Komagataeibacter xylinus) produce incredibly fine strands of pure microbial cellulose as a byproduct.
3.  These cellulose strands knit together to form a solid, thin, leather-like film on the surface of the liquid, which is the material harvested for use.

I wash the Scoby on the same bag as it came and then poured it into the solution made with tea and sugar. I used black tea because I could not find a good green tea.

Now I just have to wait for it to grow.

From SCOBY to Fabric

1.  Growing: The SCOBY film is grown in large vats to the desired size and thickness. Unlike traditional fabrics, which are woven, this material is grown as a continuous sheet.
2.  Harvesting & Drying: The sheet is harvested, washed, and then carefully dried. As it dries, it shrinks and becomes tough and flexible.
3.  Finishing: The dried material is often treated with natural oils (like coconut oil or beeswax) to make it softer, more flexible, and improve its water resistance, giving it a texture like natural leather or thick paper.