6. Computational Couture¶

𓋜 Research 𓋜¶

Computational couture is an approach to fashion and textile design that uses computational tools, algorithms, and digital fabrication to create garments and textile structures. By working with parametric design and digital processes, it becomes possible to explore new forms, materials, and interactions that go beyond traditional textile techniques.

what is parametric design?

Parametric design is a design approach in which forms and structures are created using parameters and adjustable values that control the geometry and behavior of a design.

Instead of drawing a single fixed shape, the designer defines a set of rules and relationships. When a parameter changes, the design updates automatically.

In fashion, textiles, and computational couture, parametric design is often used to create patterns, molds, or structures that can be customized, repeated, or scaled while maintaining coherence across the design.

Poseidon by Hillary Sampliner, 2014

ྀི ̼◡ References & Inspiration ◡ ̼ ྀི¶

For this assignment, I was inspired by Op Art and by how it is applied to faces. I like how forms are clearly defined using light and shadow, even without necessarily using straight lines to create the image.

Franz Kafka, unknown, via pinterest
Renee Passet button portrait, unknown, via pinterest
Stevie Wonder in the recording studio, by PQpod, via pinterest
Fotografia efecto visual, by Manolo Peña, via pinterest
Frida Kahlo, by Yoo Hyun, via creative boom

𖣠Tools𖣠¶

⚆ ⚇ Process and workflow ⚈ ⚉¶

Grasshopper for Rhino is a visual programming tool integrated into Rhinoceros (Rhino) that allows you to create parametric and algorithmic designs without writing traditional code. This is the program i chose to use. Within it´s functions, there's one called image sampler that reads pixel values from an image and converts them into numerical data. These values can then be used to control geometry parametrically, such as the size, height, or density of elements. By translating light and dark areas of an image into data. So that was the perfect function to create what i wanted to do.

For the portrait image i wanted to use a famous photo of one of my favorite poets, Alejandra Pizarnick.

Alejandra Pizarnick by Sara Facio

GH¶

To use grasshopper you first need to open rhino, once it´s open go: tools > Grasshopper

A second page it´s going to pop out, your screen should look like this:

To visually see your work, use Rhino, and to continue configuring it, use Grasshopper. Split your screen with both tabs open to comfortably visualize the progress of your work.

On the main page, once you open GH (Grasshopper), a menu with colored cubes appears showing your saved past projects. If you don’t have one yet, to start adding components you can either search for them in the top bar or double-click on the beige workspace, where a search bar will appear so you can type the name of the component you want.

Now you can start your project!

These are the main components for my final result; numer silder for the image resolution and distribution, connected to image sampler where you can upload any picture or image you just double click on the square and a menu should pop out, thre´s a search bar were you can type in the file path of your image.

This is how the resolution changes with number slider:

This is what my complete setup looks like

For the indepth process you can look for "Grasshopper Image Sampler" on youtube and there are many tutorials you can follow, this is the one i used:

Tip: save your work constantly while working both on GH and rhino since the programs can crash out sometimes.

3D printing¶

3D printing is a digital fabrication process in which objects are created layer by layer from a digital model. The following illustrations were taken from an alumni´s page Isobel that created by another alumni Asli, as I found them very clear and helpful to visually support what I was explaining in my text.

Illustration adapted by Asli Aksan from Redwood, B., Schöffer, F., & Garret, B. (2017). The 3D Printing Handbook: Technologies, design and applications. 3D Hubs

I used the Creality Ender 3 that uses 1.75 mm filament to print, the filament it´s thermoplastic (it melts) that goes through a heated nozzle and builds layer by layer the final product.

Illustration by Asli Aksan

To parametrize (prepare the 3D printing process), a software program is required. In my case, I used Ultimaker Cura to configure the printing parameters such as layer height, infill density, print speed, and supports. This software translates the 3D model into machine-readable instructions (g-code), allowing the printer to fabricate the object accurately layer by layer.

I used the following images from my instructor, Mar Chávez, to illustrate some procedures because they are very clear and descriptive and show the right way to useg the 3D printing machines available at the FabLab Ibero Puebla.

Calibrating a 3D printer before using it is important because it ensures accuracy, consistency, and reliability during the printing process. Proper calibration directly affects both the quality of the printed object and the performance of the machine. This is how you level a Creality Ender 3:

By Mar Chávez, fabricademy, 2025

There is also a complete procedure for properly changing the filament, which is important to avoid clogs, uneven extrusion, or print failures. This process usually involves heating the nozzle to the correct temperature, unloading the previous filament, carefully inserting the new filament, and extruding a small amount to ensure a smooth and consistent flow.

By Mar Chávez, fabricademy, 2025

Print set up¶

I started by opening my file (the GH file) using File < Import.

I scaled and moved it using the menu icons on the left toolbar of the program.

Went to extensions > post precessing > modify g-code

I added a script called pause at height > pause at > layer number > pause layer > 1 I did this so I could place my piece of tulle on the print bed, allowing the machine time to pause for placement and helping the filament adhere better to the material.

I modified Right menu > Quality > Layer Height

Finally, I saved the file using Save to Disk, meaning the removable SD card of the Ender printer, so I could open my G-code directly on the machine.

I inserted the microSD card into the machine and, under Print, searched for the file named CE3PRO_Samanthafabry.

I pressed the play icon and the first layer was printed. I attatched a drawing here to make the procedure clearer.

By Samantha Sánchez, 2026

As mentioned before, after the first layer is printed, the machine will pause. Once this happens, it is the ideal moment to place your piece of fabric, in my case I used tulle, and secure it with clips along the edge of the print bed.

Once it is secured, you can press play and the print will resume.

⍟ Final result ⍟¶

2nd try¶

I made a second printing test using the Prusa and TPU, which is another type of plastic, a more flexible one. This time, I only secured a piece of denim with tape along the edges and parametrized my design in PrusaSlicer. You can see this process in more depth in my Textile Scaffold week. The only additional step I added was changing the nozzle and the material. I went to the top menu bar > Filaments > Advanced > Extruder > Filament type > Flex.

Final result¶

Hand print¶

3D print result

Here is another example of how I learned to parameterize for 3D printing, which you can check on my week 2 page. To achieve this result, no other process could be used besides 3D printing, due to the outcome I was aiming for.

File → Open File… I imported the 3D hand model in STL format to begin the preparation process.

Main View → Transform Tools Selected Move to center the model on the build plate. Selected Rotate to ensure a stable orientation.

Right Panel → Walls → Wall Line Count → 0

Infill Pattern → Spiral → Infill Pattern → Spiral / Gyroid

Generate Support → disabled / Right Panel → Build Plate Adhesion→ Brim

Button → Slice → Save to device

Conclusions¶

This week helped me understand how computational tools can become part of my design process in a very tangible way. By working with Grasshopper, image based data, and 3D printing, I was able to translate a visual reference into a physical outcome while experimenting with materials and fabrication techniques. Although the process required patience and problem solving, it allowed me to connect digital design, textiles, and making in a more intuitive and personal way, expanding how I imagine and approach future projects.

Note: You can scale and extrude the design according to your preference, download the image if you want to recreate the exact same one.