7. Computational Couture#

Objectives from Fabricademy website:

Design and develop your Grasshopper definition to create 3-dimensional patterns to 3D print#

You can use various methods for 3D printing including rigid structures, flexible structures, 3D printing on fabrics#

3D Printed Flame Tattoo Sleeve#

Parametric woven pattern designed in Grasshopper (via tutorial) | 3D flame tattoo designed in Rhino

Inspiration / References#

3D Printing is the 4th industrial revolution#

Clockwise starting top left: Prada shoe via SONYC | Space tattoos | Campfire tattoo by @_azamp via Instagram | Pusha T in Prada shirt | Prada look book | Jeremy Scott’s flame Ugg boots (background image)

Design Process#

Step 1: Take measurements#

*Taking my own measurements at the wrist and forearm for the tattoo sleeve | Dimensional layout of tattoo sleeve | Reference image via TattoosTime [https://www.tattoostime.com/black-ink-fire-and-flame-tattoo-on-right-forearm/]

Step 2: Design in Rhino#

I had to think of:
- a joining system
- b. how to make a gradient that would go from 14 cm to 23 cm
- c. how to connect the flames so that they wouldn’t flop around when you are wearing the piece
- d. what material would be appropriate for the use

Step 3: Transfer your model to the 3D Printer#

To prepare your model in Rhino to export it to the 3D printer some useful tips:

Step 4: Adjusting parameters in Cura#

Ensure your piece fits on the bed

Parameters to change:
- Layer Height = 0.3 mm (the standard is 0.2 mmm but we changed it for the sake of printing faster)
- Support > Adhesion Plate = None
- Infill > Infill Density = 15%
- Zig Zag Pattern
- Shell > Top Layers = 3, Bottom Layers = 3
- Speed > Print Speed = 30 (because we are using Filaflex, we have to go at a slower speed. The default is 60).

Step 5: 3D Machine#

Step 6: Test Prototype#

Step 7: Record observations + fix imperfections of Prototype 1#

  1. General functioning
  2. The arrows do not fit in the holes because the holes are too narrow (see photo 2)
    - Solution: Widen the holes of the interlocking system (from 1.5 mm to 2.5 mm) in Rhino
  3. The 3D printing machine moved whilst printing, resulting in a “double layer” or “offset” look of the filaflex. The spread filament that resulted was actually a contributor to why the interlocking system didn’t shut properly. You can see how the arrow in photo #3 is wider than it should be.
    - Solution: Keep a closer eye on the 3D printer when it’s printing
  4. The 3D printer created some pock marks (or indents) on the filaflex and left some gaps (see photo 1) - Solution: This can be fixed by adjusting the infill density in Cura

  5. Design aestethic

  6. The tattoo was way too thick. When you wrapped it around your arm, it raised off of the skin so much that it didn’t look like a tattoo at all. It just looked like a shirt sleeve.
    - Solution: Reduce the thickness from 4mm to 0.5 mm in Cura
  7. I didn’t like the white colour at all. It’s not appropriate for this project, because it doesn’t communicate the notion of a “tattoo”. It needs to be black, to mimic the look of a black ink arm sleeve.
    - Solution: buy black Filaflex
  8. I didn’t like the look of the “straight across” connections of the flames
    - Solution: Alter the design in Rhino
  9. I didn’t like how wide the attachment straps were. I made them this wide because I thought it would be necessary for the tattoo not to break. But we realized it could be a lot skinnier and still not snap.
    - Solution: Reduced the width of the straps in Rhino

Step 8: Print Prototype 2#

We got black Filaflex!
- Anytime you are working with a new material, you have to read the information sheet it comes with to determine its temperature requirements. Each 3D printing filament has it’s own requirements.

This time in Cura:
- I had to scale down the design slightly because the object wouldn’t fit on the bed. We made it x=96 and y=96
- I chose to do a “Voronoi” design instead of a “Zig Zag”
- I printed only 2 layers this time, instead of 3 top layers and 3 bottom layers

Step 9: Fix again and print Prototype 3#

This time, the tattoo sleeve fit nice and close to the skin. But it was a little TOO thin. So another Prototype needs to be made.

Design Files:#


I wanted to simulate how a parametric pattern (like the 3D flame tattoo) would stretch, inflate, deflate on a human arm. Next, I wanted to simulate what it would look like on different parts of the body, for example the leg or neck.

Overview of Grasshopper connections

Resulting parametric pattern in Rhino, once “baked in Grasshopper

Lecture reflections#

“Computational Couture”
Presented by Aldo Sollazzo
Lecture 7

Bonus Information#