3. Circular fashion

Inspiration.

I am very excited about the possibility to play around flat patterns in order to achieve volumetric configurations. Among so many other properties to create a module, I am interested in the opportunity to design a pattern that should not produce left overs. This module should make the most of the textile surface through its geometry.

I would like to highlight the following work from different authors as a way of Inspiration

Matija Cop

Elisa Strozyk

Eunsuk Hur

Workflow:

Sketch some modules. Decide for one option

Digitalize it

Laser cut the parts

Try different assemble options

Assemble a final garment

Fabrication.

Sketches and paper prototype

This design has 2 components: the big piece has slots where the small part gets hocked. The small component works as a connector. The idea is to have the possibility to connect the bigger components through many sides as possible.

Lets see how it works as a paper prototype

Digital module.

I started by playing with a square. Although it is a simple shape, I wanted to discover many ways to assemble it. So, I used a hexagon as internal geometry to break the rectangular angle constriction.

The top of the hexagon will be intersected by another square, this second element should be a quarter of the size from the first square. In consequence, I would keep using the entire surface and would not leave left overs in a rectangular piece of textile.

I used inventor for this exercise. The yellow smaller square will be connecting the bigger square through the internal shape.

Then I copied the big squares and allocate them one next to the other. Have in mind that we do not want lines overlapping. Erase extra lines before allocating all your models.

Then I draw 4 arcs in the small square that will have to intersect with the hexagonal cuts from the bigger square. Do have in mind that this cuts have to fit with the hexagonal geometry. I overlapped both squares to decide where the arc should start

In order to achieve the intersection needed in the not rectangular cuts, I moved some edges from the internal hexagon towards the vertex of the big square. This will allow the small squares to reach those edges and create new ways of assemble. In addition, three extra edges will be cut so I can play with even more chances for assemble the pieces.

Laser cuts.

After few small tests, I found a good relation to laser cut the pieces: speed 70 and power: 20%

It is also important to focus the laser beam, the lab machine has a special little piece of mdf that fits perfect for a proper focal distance.

Lets remember the recommendations

Here some recommendations when working with this kind of machines:

  • To start using the laser cutting machine you have to turn On components in the following order: Turn on the chiller, turn on the airpump (touch it, make sure it is vibrating), and then turn on the laser bed.

  • Turn every thing off in the opposite way: turn the laser bed off then the air pump and finally, the Chiller. (alow the machine to cool down before turning it off)

  • Always check out for the Chiller. Temperature in the CO2 tube for this machine MUST NOT exceed 27 degrees. If temperature reaches this level, allow the machine to rest for a couple of minutes

  • You will be working with laser radiation, take safety rules seriously: do not operate the laser cutter when the screen protection is open

  • Allow the extractor of the laser cutter to work. Wait about 10 seconds before openning the machin's working area. The machine will have enough time to extract remaining fumes.

Assemble.

Once I get the pieces, I started to play around different ways of putting the modules together.

Finally, I assemble the pieces on the mannequin

Here are the files Open Source Circular Fashion

Analogue Library

I used double sided tape foam to hold a sample I will be giving to FABLAB ZOI. I will also leave the files that will be used for the brand new material library.

https://gitlab.fabcloud.org/academany/fabricademy/2020/students/andres.basantes/raw/master/docs/images/wk3/analogLib.jpg