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01 desktop research

proposal

My final project proposal is to create a clothing concept using body mapping techniques via computational design and implement healing biomaterials or concepts. I aim for an outcome with sensual relief for the wearer. As a bare minimum my goal is to raise awareness about the important of our body experience - to return our concentration to our physical being, as reflected in mindful practises. My long term goal is to develop functional healing properties of the garments through consistent and in depth biomaterial research and collaboration.

My initial presentation and research for this can be viewed in the implication and applications

implication/applications feedback

This work by Laura Deschl is very similar to my final project proposal. In terms of creating a garment with therapeutic properties, the emphasis on acupressure and the wearability of the clothing (activewear). There are some differences however, towards certain details such as:

  • I would like to incorporate some chemical lace/embroidery machine lace into the sensuality of the outcome. My preliminary samples can be viewed here from the textiles scaffold week
  • I propose to create a bioceramic material with insulation properties - these will be either deposited into knitted pockets and/or layered with a biopolymer foam

concept development

research

Who Am I - Documentary from Caleb Vinson on Vimeo.

Documentary WHO AM I ? by Caleb Winson explores TCM: Taoist Chinese Medicine. In TCN, health is achieved by balance and harmony of mind, body and spirit. This interconneted and interdependent relationship is known as Yin & Yang. Dr Ming Wu is a chinese herbalist and master of Qi Gong and Tai Chi - both practises of which are recognised for promoting TCM. TCM works with our bioelectric system: finding root causes of blockages and energy imbalance and looking at the whole body to see the problem - rather than covering up symptoms. Who am I? is Wu's mantra: an ongoing rhetorical question to and about ourselves; listening to your body through awareness.

This documentary about Donna Haraway helped me think about my approach to a narrative and in storytelling in general. She talks about intimacy in inheritance, postmodern sci-fi - feminist writers in particular, sci-fi as a way to explore philosophies.

"we are kin with more than other human beings" She also talk about the arrogance of scholarly critique: that they "poison progression". In general it's an interesting documentary because her statements and visions are progressive and thought provoking.

aesthetic


Gael del Rio: Untitled 1993-96


László Moholy-Nagy


The Holy Mountain is a surreal and psychedelic film with themes around impermanence which I found inspiring. Also, the colour palettes and photography are very magnetic and have influenced my own colour palette.

articles/journals

I have been researching several academic sources to support my project:

  1. Compression Garments for Medical Therapy and Sports
    I looked at this article to establish the proven scientific research behind compression benefits in clothing. Compression is recognised as a technique that helps our brains produce oxytocin and I am hoping to create this feeling in my final project - whether this be through manufacturing/textile/biomaterials elements.

    The paper details the history of compression in medical care as well as the different knitting techniques which can be achieved.

  1. Study of the mechanical and the thermal insulation properties of polyurethane coating containing eggshell
    I looked at this to explore the alternative fabricating techniques for a biomaterial/bead with insultation properties

  2. MRI scans show that memorizing ancient mantras increases the size of brain regions associated with cognitive function

  3. Effects of far infrared rays emitting clothing on recovery after an intense plyometric exercise

  4. bioceramic starting point;

    "In this study, a blend of gelatin and alginate (Gel–Alg) was chosen as a hydrogel coating for β-TCP scaffolds to modulate the physical and mechanical properties of the ceramic."

  5. this article reviews the performance and recovery properties of [infrared-emitting garments/FIR]((https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0251282)

    • athletes are the main drivers of performances in sportswear eg. compression garments are now considered a benchmark in manufacturers of innovative technology
    • FIR - infrared spectrum of electromagnetic radiation; emitted by any object above 0°c; undetectable by eye but perceived by skin receptors as radiant heat
    • FIR has been used for a long time for treatment of chronic muscle pain/fatigue etc.
    • range of techniques can be implemented/devices eg heat lamp
    • FIR garments are used prior or post exercise
    • bioceramics are embedded into fabric or created as disks
    • FIR garments when resting enhance blood flow/muscle tissue/oxygenation/resting metabolism/sleep parameters
    • composed of several metallic compounds eg magnesium/tourmaline/silica/aluminium that radiate when heated to body temperature

related content

  • There are a lot more collaborations with loungewear like this one with 032c x Sloggi. Loungewear is clothing with an emphasis on comfort so this is why I am interested in making clothing with this quality but adding therapeutic properties to elevate what the garments can provide for the wearer.

  • seamless knitwear

  • auxetic structure bra; laser cut, seamless. inspires the feeling of how the piece can feel and also promotes the wellness character of the garment

  • I saw this device in the Court Ingles: an LED face mask. There is a link between the bioceramic material and LED light therapy in that bioceramics mimic the application of LED with the reflecting capabilities of the multiple mineral compositions.

  • I found this information about FIR textiles from a global testing company: SGS


  • https://www.bustle.com/style/how-to-buy-aldi-heated-dressing-gown-in-the-uk

  • This is an interesting project by Kristi Kuusk: a self care wearable, "inviting the wearer to heal through vibrations"

specialised bioceramic manufacturers

  • https://www.fir-skin.com/ supplier for Yooneek

  • https://www.kymirasport.com/

  • https://www.schoeller-textiles.com/en/ bioceramic supplier for Vollebak

zoom talk

I arranged to talk to a professional who does holistic healing therapy including acupuncture and massage. I wanted to find out about the pressure points that are worked on the most. She sent me some images that I will use as a the basic pressure points.

Jo recommended I watch these TED talks relating to stress and oxytocin:

This talk emphasises our approach to stress: to observe it as a preparation for meeting challenges rather than dread and anxiety; view it as a performance aid; biology of courage towards creating resilience

Oxytocin in sharing trust and morality

sportswear & knitwear research


visual boards

colour

knit
This is my knitwear moodboard inspired by a photo I took on the bus earlier last year and Vasarley/optical art patterns

appliques
I did some draping to get an idea of the garment design I am working towards. The style has a raglan sleeve - it's a rough toile.. The lace detail on the back is an important emphasis on the pressure points for the spine in acupuncture.

Last update: 2022-05-16