Week 03-04/10/2022

Open Source
Circular
Fashion

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Oct 04, 2022

Open Source Circular Fashion

Hello there! This is a page that documents my third week of Fabricademy. Let's go!


1. Weekly Documentation planning

How I worked this week

2. Modular Fashion

In this week's class the lecture elaborates about the systems behind fashion and the textile industry, focusing on alternative systems such as circular fashion, agile fashion, open value chains.
Our assignment is to create modular elements, structures and connections that allow the user to change the shape of a garment, resize it or replace certain elements.

I find inspiration and explore other ideas to do this week in Pinterest and OS Circular fashion page. I find really intesting the explorations of interlocking conections, specially the ones from Maite Sosa and the "Post couture collective" from Martijn van Strien.

Testing joints, attachments and locking connections by Maite Sosa (OS Circular fashion)
"Post couture collective"- Martijn van Strien.

3. Creating modular seams

3.1. Paper & Scissors

This week I wanted to explore locking connections to create seamless garmets. I started drawing the ideas that I got based on textile structures.

Textile structures
Inicial drawings
Testing using paper
3.2. Digital Prototyping

After making these tests I use Rhinoceros to digitally draw my ideas. I use the polyline and fillet tool. Here are my results:

Final results

4. Fabrication

4.1. Choosing a Material

It's important to choose a suitable material for laser cutting. Some material can release dangerous gases or dust. Here's a list of materials that we have to avoid. After reviewing that list I went to a fabric store and pick a material to make the assignment.

Local Fabric store of my country

I decided to try velvet, it's a soft fabric and it has fine texture and luxurious look. Here you can check the materiacl specifications:

Source

4.2.Laser Cutting

4.2.1. Machine Specifications

  • Machine model: JQ1390
  • Job size:130*90cm / 47.3in * 35,5 (L * W)
  • Company: Jinan Jinqiang Laser Cnc Equipment Co., Ltd.

Before cutting a file, it is necessary to carry out tests with the material that we are going to use to ensure a clean job without major problems.

4.2.2. Power and Speed test

This test will help us find the correct parameters of speed and power for the material selected.

Now, I can start cutting my joints.

4.2.3. Laser cutting results

I made a detailed list about all the steps required to operate the laser cutting machine in my second week of fabricademy.
I follow the same path for this week's assignments and these were my results:

Lasercutting my modules
First type of joint based on weaving
Second type of joint based on Braiding
Third type of joint based on weft-knit

4.2.4. Pull test

I tested the joints pulling the fabrics away from each other. All joints worked well, but the second type was stroger and harder to dissamble. That's why I decided to pick that one and designed a seamless garmet using it.

via GIPHY

5. Seamless garmet

I design a Bucket hat using this free template. I edited the file in Rhino and add the joint pattern making sure each "X cut" was equidistant from each other and following the seam path.

Edited pattern using Rhinoceros

5.1. Assembly

The assembly process was pretty slow at the beginning but it quickly became easier and faster. The result was great and I'm excited to try this interlocking connection with more garmets. (You can find the file at the bottom of the page).

Final result

5.2. OS Circular Fashion

I upload my design files the Fabricademy Open Source Circular fashion catalogue. You can check it here.


6. Reflections

What went wrong

  • I could not build other garmets using the connection or try different fabrics

What went right

  • Try different types of interlocking connection.
  • Make an useful interlocked connection and build a seamless hat.

7. References:

Textile structures

FABRICS AND ABBREVIATIONS


8. Files

Bucket Hat DXF file

Bucket Hat PDF file

Weekly assignments

  • 100%
    Include some inspiration
  • 100%
    Design and prototype with paper and scissors
  • 100%
    Document, Design and prototype digitally your modular configurations and interlocking connections in 2D
  • 100%
    Document the process of testing and laser cutting your designs
  • 100%
    Laser cut the modules. Create a modular or seamless garment.
  • 100%
    Upload the fabrication file.
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