7. Computational Couture¶
RESEARCH & IDEATION¶
Computational couture looks at the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing (typical of haute couture) through the lens of a systemic approach, extending the sartorial techniques with 3D modeling and computation-based approaches developed in Rhinoceros and the visual programming environment Grasshopper.
3D PRINTING¶
3D printing is a process in which a digital model is turned into a tangible, solid, three-dimensional object, usually by laying down many successive, thin layers of a material. 3D printing has become popular so quickly because it makes manufacturing accessible to more people than ever before. This is partly due to the price (the starting price for a basic 3D printer is about $300), but also the small size of the printers compared to traditional manufacturing.
How does it work?
First, a virtual design of the object is made. This design will work like a blueprint for the 3D printer to read. The virtual design is made using computer-aided design (CAD) software, a type of software that can create precise drawings and technical illustrations. A virtual design can also be made using a 3D scanner, which creates a copy of an existing object by basically taking pictures of it from different angles.
Once the virtual model is made, it must be prepared for printing. This is done by breaking down the model into many layers using a process called slicing. Slicing takes the model and slices it into hundreds or even thousands of thin, horizontal layers using special software. Cura Ultimaker
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How are things printed? The 3D printer will begin printing the layers of material in a process known as material extrusion. Depending on the type of 3D printer and material being used, there are several methods of material extrusion.
Materials
Most common:
What is grasshopper?
Grasshopper is a cutting-edge parametric modelling tool which works with Rhino to allow a powerful and efficient new way of designing.
Get started with grasshopper
REFERENCES & INSPIRATION¶
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Image reference
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Unknown Human skin seen under a microscope, showing hair shaft and sweat pores
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tonaquatic Skin
Tools¶
EXAMPLES¶
EXAMPLE #1 Polygons¶
In these examples, a base was also designed where all the polygons sit since we will be working with TPU, which is a flexible filament. If the base is also flexible, we can curve the entire piece.
The configuration was made with a layer height of 0.12 to get maximum details but there would be no problem printing with a layer height of 0.2 which is a standard level of quality.
One of the important aspects of TPU is that it requires printing at about 230 degrees Celsius in the extruder and about 60 degrees in the hot bed.
It is important to know that you can only print flexible filament with a direct extruder.
EXAMPLE #2 Polygons and Surface¶
In this example I wanted the base to be limited with the polygons, which when creating them also created a surface, we simply extruded that surface in the grasshopper.
EXAMPLE #3 Printing with TPU¶
For this example I wanted to create walls in the shape of a polygon, so the way I did it was by duplicating the code of the first pattern and then increasing the negative distance between each polygon to create those walls. Finally, we use the Solid difference block to make the cut between both bodies.
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Check the printing parameters of the filament, this is usually on the same roll.
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Introduce the filament into the extruder, it is very important that it be a direct extruder and not a bowden.
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Clean the machine, the print bed too and Calibrate the bed with the nozzle.
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Initialize the program and make sure that the temperatures reach the range you assigned.
Check that the first layer is done correctly, if you see that it comes off, recalibrate the bed.
After leaving the impression running, the holidays began and the Fab Lab closed. When I returned, the laboratory was under renovation and the machines were out of service and in a totally different classroom. Unfortunately, the final result was lost but I will try again.
EXAMPLE #4 3D print on textile with TPU¶
For the last example I did not extrude any base for the polygons since I plan to do these tests using fabric as the base and thus also experiment printing on different types of fabric, with different rigidities.
- Direct drive: 0.4 mm and 30 mm/s
- Extruder temperature: 235 degrees
- Bed temperature: 60 degrees
- Bowden: 2 mm and 20 mm/s
- Layer height: 0.2mm
- Filling: 20%
- Speed: 40.0 mm/s
- Retraction distance: 6.5mm
- Retraction speed: 25.0 mm/s
- Adhesion Type: Brim
First we let the first two layers be created without the fabric, after those two layers are finished you can add the fabric and hold it very well so that it does not move.
