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4. BioChromes

"If science teaches us anything, it teaches us to accept our failures, as well as our successes, with quiet dignity and grace." Frankenstein junior"

Quilted Archive / credits : ray

Weekly Assignmet

Learning Outcomes - Checklist 

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Ray's History with Natural Dying

**Eye of Ray emerged during the pandemic as a conseguence of isolation and alienation in my own home. I found myself surrounded by my old clothes and house. I was slowly finding new ways of expression through clothing, despite being a project with broad artistic visions. I referred to it as my personal incubator, where I felt free to express various mediums and techniques, resulting in a fluctuation between art and fashion.

The production of each garment generated the least possible impact. I used deadstock, recycled fabrics, and natural pigments and fibers, with each piece being entirely unique, made in Rome by the hands of local artisans. Although this project was successful and I achieved my aim of not exploiting new resources, I eventually felt that I was producing for an audience and had lost some of my authenticity. The search to recapture this was pivotal in my recent journey of self-renewal and discovery.**

Hacks

Hacks for Giphy: - Hack to reduce size of giphy embeded code change the first line where there is the: "width:60%"><div style="height:0;padding-bottom:70%; ....

  • Hacked and modified the syntax to remove hyperlink giphy tha tkeeps on shifting whilst I reduce size. HACK just remove the last line from the embeded code that giphy generates that after </ div > select from < p > until < p<> to fully remove hyperlink...

  • found finally where to storage my own giffs!!! amazing website which i upload them (and they will stay there!) and embed them into the website:

  • IMGUR

  • Tumeric is pH sensitive!!

CLASS NOTES

Credits: Asli Aksan

WORKFLOW

Natural Dyes¶ Weighing fibers Scouring Tanning (if you want the color to last longer) - we skipped this step in our experiment. However, we used Oak Galls, which are used for tanning, to color our fibers in the dyeing step Mordanting Dyeing Making pigments Weighing fibers¶ weighing fibers when dry

It is really important to weigh your fibers dry before starting the whole process. The recipes rely heavily on the weight of the fibers because you measure the amount of each ingredient depending on the fiber weight. For our collective experiments, the following are the weights of fibers:

Cotton thread: 3 gr per piece, 32 pieces total. Cotton fabric: 30 gr per a piece of fabric measuring 580*680mm, 8 pieces total. Dutch wool: 10 gr per pieces, 24 pieces total. South American wool (Alpaca wool): 5 gr per pieces, 14 pieces total.

Scouring and Mordanting¶

Scouring is cleaning the fibers from dirt and oil. Our wool fibers were clean to start with, so did not scour them. For the amount of cotton fibers we had, we boiled 6lt of water and put 2 heaps of tablespoon of Sodium Carbonate in a pot and stirred. We put the cotton thread and cotton fabric in the boiling water and simmered for 1 hour.

Mordanting acts like a catalyser for binding the dye pigment to fibers. We used tepid water for mordanting because wool cannot be in boiling hot water. For mordanting wool, you need Potassium Aluminum Sulphate (Alum) (10-20% weight of the fibers) and Tartaric acid (8% of the weight of the fibers). We mordanted for 1 hour. If you are using the leftover mordant water to mordant again, you assume the strength of the mixture is half the strength and calculate dependently. You do not need tartaric acid for cotton fibers.

Starting Points 

Jan Georg Rosenboom / chemical engineer

Examples of invasive Plants in the NL?

  • Japanese Knotweed (Reynoutria japonica): Japanese Knotweed is an invasive plant in the Netherlands known for its aggressive growth. It contains a natural source of resveratrol, which has been studied for its potential use as a dye and pigment in textiles.

  • Common Madder (Rubia tinctorum): While not necessarily invasive, Common Madder is a plant that has been historically used for its red dye-producing roots. It can be found in various regions, including the Netherlands, and has been cultivated for its dye properties.

  • Dyer's Greenweed (Genista tinctoria): Dyer's Greenweed is a plant known for its yellow dye-producing properties. While it's not typically considered invasive, it can be found in various parts of Europe, including the Netherlands.

  • Himalayan Balsam (Impatiens glandulifera): This invasive plant is not known for tintorial properties but is often found along riverbanks and wetlands in the Netherlands. by AI

  • don't forget about BIODIVERISITY OF PLANTS!

Why does the Netherlands have a nitrogen problem?

How Nitrogen Fixing Bacteria Work

  • Emissions of nitrogen oxides and ammonia have been too high in the Netherlands for many years. This causes excessive deposition of nitrogen, which is harmful for both nature and public health. Transport and industry are the main emitters of nitrogen oxides.
Q & A (Pigments & Inks)

Q: “What pigment protects against UV rays?

  • Melanin: In addition to the stratospheric ozone layer filtering the most harmful UVC, human skin contains a photoprotective pigment called melanin to protect from UVB, UVA, and blue visible light. This pigment is a redox UV-absorbing agent and functions as a shield to prevent direct UV action on the DNA of epidermal cells. Q: From where to etract melnanin?

  • Human or Animal Skin: Melanin is present in human and animal skin. It can be isolated from skin tissue, often by chemical extraction methods.

  • Hair: Hair, particularly the hair shaft, contains melanin. It can be isolated from hair samples.

  • Iris of the Eye: Melanin is also present in the iris of the eye. It can be extracted from the iris tissue.

Q:Functional Inks

  • Ink that adds properties to fabric is typically referred to as "functional ink" or "smart ink." This type of ink contains additives or materials that can impart specific properties to the fabric, such as:

  • Conductive Ink: Conductive ink contains materials like silver or carbon nanoparticles, which can make fabric conductive. This is commonly used in wearable technology, like smart clothing or e-textiles, to create circuits and sensors within the fabric.

  • Thermochromic Ink: Thermochromic ink changes color or becomes transparent when exposed to heat. It's often used in clothing to create color-changing or temperature-sensitive designs.

  • Photochromic Ink: Photochromic ink changes color when exposed to UV or sunlight. It can create designs or patterns that become visible when the fabric is exposed to sunlight.

  • Hydrophobic Ink: Hydrophobic ink creates a water-repellent or waterproof coating on fabric. It causes water to bead up and roll off the fabric's surface, keeping it dry.

  • Glow-in-the-Dark Ink: Glow-in-the-dark ink contains phosphorescent materials that absorb and emit light. It's used to create designs that glow in the dark after exposure to light.

  • Antimicrobial Ink: Antimicrobial ink contains agents that inhibit the growth of bacteria and microorganisms on fabric. It's often used in healthcare textiles or sportswear to reduce odor and maintain hygiene.

  • UV-Protective Ink: UV-protective ink can add UV-blocking properties to fabric, reducing the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation from the sun.

  • Flame-Retardant Ink: Flame-retardant ink contains materials that make fabric resistant to catching fire. It's used in industries where fire safety is critical, such as in protective clothing.

  • Aromatherapy Ink: Aromatherapy ink incorporates scents or fragrances into fabric. It can be used for scented clothing or textiles for relaxation or mood enhancement.

  • These types of functional inks are used in various industries, including fashion, textiles, electronics, healthcare, and more. They allow designers and manufacturers to add unique and innovative properties to fabrics, expanding the possibilities for creative and functional textiles. chatgbt

Thermochromic Inks:

These inks change color in response to temperature variations. While not providing insulation, they can visually indicate temperature changes, serving as an interesting feature in cold-sensitive applications.

  • Conductive Inks: In some cases, conductive inks can be used for printing on fabrics or materials to create elements like conductive traces. These may be part of electronic components that generate heat when a current is applied. However, these are more about generating heat rather than providing insulation.

  • Coatings for Thermal Insulation: Rather than inks, coatings or materials with thermal insulation properties could be applied to surfaces. These coatings are designed to minimize heat transfer and maintain warmth, offering protection against the cold.

Inks that react with BLOOD - The concept of inks reacting with blood may raise concerns related to medical applications, forensic science, or safety concerns. It's important to note that any interaction with blood should prioritize safety, and the use of such inks should adhere to ethical and legal standards.

  • Forensic Luminol: Luminol is not an ink, but it's worth mentioning in the context of blood detection. It's a chemical that reacts with the iron in hemoglobin, producing a luminescent effect. This is often used in forensic science to detect blood at crime scenes.

It's crucial to handle any materials involving blood with great care and adhere to ethical and legal guidelines. Additionally, if you're considering the use of inks or chemicals in any product or application, it's advisable to consult with experts in the relevant fields to ensure safety, ethical considerations, and legal compliance. chatgtb

Tools and Workflow 
**Tools:**

Scour Agent Sodium carbonate 15/30 gr depends on the ratio

Mordent Agent: Alum 15/30 gr depends on the ratio

Stirring Utensil: A long spoon or stick for stirring the fabric in the dye bath.

Gloves: Wear rubber or latex gloves to protect your hands from staining and heat.

Plastic tablecloth or garbage bags: To protect your work surface from dye splatters.

Measuring cups and spoons: For accurately measuring the dye and other ingredients.

Water: You'll need clean, warm water for the dyeing process.

Sink or tub: To rinse and wash the dyed fabric.

Fabric: Choose the fabric you want to dye. In this case we could only choose Natural fibers like cotton, linen, silk, and wool tend to take dye well, as synthetic fibers require specialized dyes.

**Workflow:**

Prepare your work area: Cover your work surface with a plastic tablecloth or garbage bags to protect it from dye spills. Wear old clothes or an apron.

Prepare your fabric: Wash the fabric to remove any dirt, oils, or finishes that might hinder the dye's absorption 2 steps to do that:

  1. Scour Fabric (clean): Use a pan boil the water and add sodium carbonate (alkaline) leave them for 30min to 1 hour.

  2. Mordent Fabric: Use a pan boil the water and add alum which adds an acidity to it and makes the pigment last longer to the fabric, leave them for 30min to 1 hour.

Prepare the dye bath: a. Fill the bucket or stainless steel pot with enough warm water to fully submerge the fabric. b. Add the appropriate amount of dye according to the package instructions. c. If required, add salt or vinegar as specified by the dye instructions.

Dye your fabric: a. Wet the fabric thoroughly. b. Immerse the fabric in the dye bath, ensuring it's fully submerged. c. Stir the fabric continuously for even color distribution. d. Let it soak for the recommended time (typically 20-30 minutes). e. Keep in mind that the color will look darker when wet.

Rinse and wash: a. Rinse the dyed fabric under cold water until the water runs clear. b. Wash the fabric separately in cold water with a mild detergent. c. Dry the fabric as you normally would (air dry or machine dry).

**Up-Cylce your Dye Bath**

Precipitate Ink:

  • Step 1: Prepare the Alum and Soda Solution

  • Start with approximately 15 grams of alum (aluminum potassium sulfate) and 7 grams of soda ash (sodium carbonate).

  • Step 2: Gradually Add Alum to the Dyed Fabric

  • Step 3: Gradually Add Soda Ash to the Dyed Fabric

  • Step 4: Gradually add the soda ash solution to the dyed fabric, just as you did with the alum. Stir to ensure even distribution.

  • Step 5: Filter (coffee paper filter works great) the dye for at least 24hr, eventually only a thick paste will have stayed on the filter and that can be upclycled in many diffrent ways

Fabric Scan

Week 04 Biochromes Experiment

Wild Dyeing 01

Group Dying Pots:

**Ray's Pot:**
  • Sweet Pea: 20 grms (I would add more in the future)
  • scour (sodium carbonate) + mordent (alum) fabric (natural fibre only)

  • 2 lt of boiling water

    (I would add more in the future, this was an experiment, the results were a bit weak, so I tried to steam them on both paper and fabric and the sewwt pea really got some strong vivid purple/blue colours out)

    Steph's Pot:

  • Red Onion skins

  • Half weight of fibres 50%

  • 50 grams + extra pinch for good luck
    -100grams of fibre

    Zee's Pot:

  • Oak galls: 35 grams

  • Rhubarb roots: 30 grams

  • Weld: 60 grams

    Jiawen‘s Pot

  • Holy Hocks: 20 grams -2lt of water

    Riley's Pot:

  • St. John's: 30 grams

    Teresa's Pot:

  • Maddar

  • Iron
Insivible Ink

In my second workshop, I tried out invisible ink, aiming for glow-in-the-dark messages. The initial test didn't go as planned, but I used it as coloring ink instead—turned out to be surprisingly fun!

“I see my artwork as a process of realising intentions, in which “a failure” is just another departure point into new ideas. In this sense I see my process of art making similar to the process of doing scientific experiments – they do not always have to be ‘successful’. My objective is to induce different understanding through the creation of various platforms of interaction. It is the intention to fabricate meaningful habitation that is the driving force behind my works.” - Ana Rewakowicz

  • Focus on inks: My experiment with glow-in-the-dark or invisible ink failed, but I used it to color paper. And, 'by accident,' during my wild experiments, I discovered that turmeric was pH-sensitive! That made my day

  • Fluorescein, commonly known as uranine, resorcinolphthalein, or D&C Yellow, is a dye derived primarily from two petroleum products, resorcinol and phthalic anhydride.

How to Make Fluorescein from Highlighter Markers:

PAPER USED TO CLEAN MY SPILLS OF FLUO INK

pH

Natural pH modifier colour : cabbadge

"Cabbage is a versatile and interesting natural pH indicator. It can change color based on the pH of the solution it is placed in. Specifically, cabbage contains a water-soluble pigment molecule called anthocyanin, which is responsible for the color change.

Here's how cabbage changes color based on pH:

  • Acidic Solution (pH < 7): In acidic solutions, such as lemon juice or vinegar, the cabbage extract turns red or pink. This is because anthocyanin molecules are red at lower pH values.

  • Neutral Solution (pH 7): In neutral solutions, like water, the cabbage extract will generally appear purplish or bluish. The color is often less vibrant than in acidic or alkaline solutions.

Alkaline Solution (pH > 7): In alkaline solutions, such as baking soda or ammonia, the cabbage extract turns green or yellow. In alkaline conditions, the anthocyanin molecules become green or yellow in color.

This color-changing property of cabbage makes it a natural and easily accessible pH indicator for various educational and scientific experiments. You can create your own cabbage pH indicator by boiling red cabbage leaves, extracting the pigment, and using it to test the pH of different substances."

Other pH modifiers or indicators:

Blueberries: Blueberries contain a natural pigment called anthocyanin, similar to cabbage. In acidic solutions, they will turn reddish, and in alkaline solutions, they will turn green or bluish.

  • Red Beet Juice: Beet juice contains a pigment called betalain. It can be used as a pH indicator, turning from red in acidic solutions to yellow or orange in alkaline solutions.

  • Turmeric: Turmeric is a spice that contains curcumin, which can act as a pH indicator. It turns from yellow in acidic solutions to red in alkaline solutions.

  • Grape Juice: Grape juice can be used as a pH indicator, with a color change from red or purple in acidic solutions to green or yellow in alkaline solutions.

  • Hibiscus Tea: Hibiscus tea is known for its bright red color in acidic solutions and its color change to green or yellow in alkaline solutions.

  • Purple Carrot Juice: Purple carrots, like red cabbage, contain anthocyanins. The juice can be used to indicate pH changes by turning from pink in acidic solutions to green or yellow in alkaline solutions.

  • Red Onions: Red onion skins can be boiled to create a natural pH indicator that changes color based on the pH of the solution. It typically turns reddish in acidic solutions.

  • Ink formulations that react to changes in pH are often referred to as pH-sensitive or pH-responsive inks. These inks can change color or undergo other visible alterations in response to variations in the acidity or alkalinity of their environment.

The two main types of pH-sensitive inks are:

  • Litmus paper and ink are classic examples of pH indicators. Litmus ink can change color in response to acidic or basic conditions. For example, it may turn red in an acidic environment and blue in a basic (alkaline) environment.

  • Universal pH Indicator Inks: These inks are more versatile and can exhibit a range of colors across the pH scale. The colors often correspond to specific pH levels, allowing for a more detailed indication of the pH of a substance.

INSPO:MAROCCAN PIGMENTS What is Berber lipstick? "This is the original lipsticks from Northern Africa, Morocco. 🇲🇦 It's called Aker Fassi, the Berber lipstick. It's made from petals of dried poppy and red terra-cotta. clay."

Bacterial Dyes¶

Credits: Asli Aksan

BACTERIA USED: Serratia Marcescens

We dyed our silk fabrics with Serratia Marcescens bacteria. This bacteria likes damp environment and usually can be found in bathrooms. Of course, we work with biosafety level 1 bacteria so it is low-risk that actually does not require special equipment or containment to work with.

Warning

Some important Biosafety Rules to follow in the BioLab:

  • Tie your hair.
  • No jewelery.
  • No food or drinks in the lab.
  • Do not bring phones or notebooks to the lab. There is a lab phone and notebooks in the lab which you can use for documentation. They are not to be taken outside.
  • Wash your hands before going in the lab and coming out of the lab.
  • Wear a lab coat.
  • All windows and doors should be shut during an experiment.

  • Sterilize your tools in the pressure cooker.

  • Preparing the fabric for bacteria growth: We used paper towels and ethanol to sterilize the table.

Methods of sterilization:

  • Heat
  • UV light
  • Alcohol
  • Acidity

Firstly, we put fabrics in the petri dishes. Then, we prepared the food for the bacteria according to the preparation manual on the bottles. We prepared to two bottles, one with Luria Broth and the other with Nutrient Agar. Nutrient Agar has a very thick consistency so it needs to be heated a little if stored in the fridge.We put the petri dishes in autoclave bags and seal them really well so the contents stay dry. Then, we put the bags and the food bottles (they should be slightly open so that they do not explode in the pressure cooker) in the pressure cooker.

Sterilization in the pressure cooker takes place at 121 degree celcius for 20 mins.

Camping gas fire helps to create a sterilized bubble for bacteria, make sure you create a circle (circa 50cm diameter) with ethanol and make the flame of the fire as blue as possible. After the sterilization in the pressure cooker, bring the food and petri dishes under the bubble of the fire. Pour the food on top of the fabrics in the petri dishes. (We put LB in three of the petri dishes and NA in two of the petri dishes). Scoop some bacteria with inoculation loop and smear it on a few places on the fabric. Seal the petri dishes with parafilm tape. Put the pteri dishes in the incubator. Incubator helps to create a steady environment for the bacteria at 18-20 degree celcius.

Food Nutrient amount (gr) Demineralized Water (ml) Peanut butter (gr)
Nutrient Agar 9,3 gr 300 ml 0,5 gr
Luria Broth 7,5 gr 300 ml 0,6 gr
Bio-Hacking Q&A

BIO-HACKING 

Q: WHAT ARE BACTERIA EXAMPLES THAT COLOUR TEXTILES?

  • Serratia marcescens: This bacterium produces a bright red pigment called prodigiosin. It has been used to dye textiles red and is considered safe for use in the textile industry.
  • Streptomyces coelicolor: This bacterium is known for producing a blue pigment called actinorhodin. It has been explored for its potential use in coloring textiles with shades of blue.
  • Chromobacterium violaceum: This bacterium produces a violet pigment called violacein. While not as commonly used as some other bacterial pigments, it has been considered for its potential use in textile dyeing.
  • Paenibacillus polymyxa: This bacterium produces a yellow pigment called xanthomonadin. It has been studied as a natural source of yellow dye for textiles.
  • Rubrivivax gelatinosus: This bacterium produces a purple pigment called bacteriorhodopsin. It has been explored for its potential use in textile dyeing processes. ChatGPT

Q: Which bacteria absorb atmospheric nitrogen and converts it into nitrate?

  • Rhizobium
  • Coccus
  • Bacilli
  • Spirilla Solution
  • Rhizobium is the type of bacteria which is found in the roots of leguminous plants and converts atmospheric nitrogen into nitrates.

BACTERIA THAT ABSORBS NITROGEN

BACTERIA CLASS NOTES

SPF Protection
  • UV-Protective Ink: UV-protective ink can add UV-blocking properties to fabric, reducing the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation from the sun.

Fugitive Inks

ANTHOTYPE IDEA: Fugitive Inks: Imagine a complete outfit that you wear every day. The ink's reaction to our daily lives adapts to our gestures, exposure to light, forms, anatomy, etc. This garment I'm fascinated by the seeing how the garments mimicks our daily lives, which evolves with us every day.

Reflections

Reflection on my week exploring biochromes, natural dyes, chemical reactions, bacteria, reactive, and sensible inks: This has been, for now, my most comfortable week, given my engagement in dyeing since the onset of COVID. I chose to invest my time this week in delving into aspects I hadn't managed to explore yet. However, I feel much less pressure to produce a final creation; instead, I see this as a research starting point, understanding that these ideas could eventually evolve into a more substantial project in the future.

I realized I'm curious about how fabrics react in different environments – soil, air, sunlight, and weather. It's fascinating to see how they wear and change in these surroundings.

I'm really excited to have narrowed down my interests and gained a clearer view of where I want to go and what I want to do in the future.

Favorite Outcome

This week, I focused on research without fixating on a specific outcome, which was different from my approach in previous weeks. I enthusiastically participated in a group workshop where each of us created at least one color. We then proceeded to dye and share our colors, along with our reactions, failures, and happiness. As a result, I gathered all the materials that "we" had dyed and sewed them together with a translucent fabric initially used to hold the dye materials like flowers and barks. However, I got inspired and decided to deconstruct my bag, using it as the base for all the small pieces of dyed matter.

Baby Proof

Dig Deeper in the Future

Extra Instagram Documentation

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