Concept & Research¶
Moodboard¶
The Living Garment¶
Arima: The Botanical Alchemist is a speculative fashion piece integrating biodegradable modules that allow plants to grow on its surface, making the wearer a caretaker of a living ecosystem. It reclaims the word witch as a powerful symbol, honoring women silenced for their knowledge of nature. Through a feminist lens, it bridges nature and activism, challenging wasteful fashion practices and celebrating healing, resilience, and transformation. A living testament to women’s power and connection to the natural world.
Arima: The Botanical Alchemist focuses on blending fashion, feminism, ecology, and history into a dynamic statement. It is not only a fashion design but a transformative tool for change, one that connects wearers to the long and often forgotten history of women as guardians of nature. By embodying this living, evolving garment, wearers would become active participants in both its creation and its constant state of change, much like the role women have historically played in nurturing and protecting the Earth.
The project taps into the power of symbolism, reclaiming the term "witch," often used as a negative label for women with knowledge of plants, medicine, and the natural world. The garment itself becomes a manifestation of that knowledge, not as something dangerous, but as a vital force of healing, strength, and wisdom.
By addressing contemporary fashion’s wastefulness, Arima challenges the norms of fast fashion and invites a more sustainable and thoughtful approach to clothing, one that incorporates environmental consciousness and reverence for the cycles of life. The use of natural dyes and biodegradable materials further enhances the garment's connection to the Earth, making it not just an aesthetic statement but a part of an ecological movement.
This project also highlights the concept of ritual, connecting the wearer to something much larger than themselves: the heritage of women who were persecuted for their relationship with nature. In this way, The Living Garment does more than challenge fashion, it shifts the way we think about power, history, and connection to the natural world.
In essence, it’s an artistic act of rebellion, a protest against the forces that seek to separate us from nature. It's a celebration of resilience, the strength of women, and the vital, ongoing dialogue between human beings and the environment.
5 Ws¶
Who: The project is for all people who align with feminist ideals and seek for a deep connection with nature. It honors the legacy of women who were persecuted for their knowledge of the Earth, particularly those labeled as “witches” throughout history. The wearer is both a caretaker and collaborator, someone who actively engages with nature and ecology.
What: Arima is a speculative fashion design project that reimagines clothing as a living, evolving ecosystem. The garment integrates biodegradable modules that allow plants to grow on its surface, transforming as they grow. It is dyed naturally using plants, making the garment fully connected to nature. The project is not just a piece of clothing but a feminist statement, a ritual of care, and an art piece that celebrates ecological consciousness.
When: The project exists in the present but is deeply tied to the past. It draws inspiration from history, particularly the persecution of women with knowledge of nature, while challenging the wastefulness of contemporary fashion. It imagines a future where women’s connection to nature is celebrated, not feared, and positions this garment as part of a broader movement for sustainability and ecological awareness. Its influence spans across the ages, from historical reclamation to modern-day activism.
Where: The project is set in the Basque Country, a region with a rich history of witchcraft and emotional attachment to the concept of witches. This area has long been tied to the persecution of women accused of witchcraft, making it a significant and symbolic location for such a project. The Basque Country’s connection to these historical figures makes it an ideal place to reframe the image of the witch from one of fear to one of wisdom, power, and connection to the earth.
Why: The project aims to reclaim and redefine the concept of the "witch," transforming it from a figure of fear and persecution into a symbol of wisdom, resilience, and ecological power. It is a feminist statement asserting that women’s connection to nature, healing, and nurturing should be celebrated, not shamed. Additionally, it challenges the destructive and wasteful practices of contemporary fashion by offering an alternative vision where clothing and nature are interconnected. Ultimately, Arima is a way to honor the past, engage with the present, and imagine a sustainable, empowered future where nature and fashion are allies, not opposites.
Research¶
History¶
Since this project is contextualized in the Basque Country with a very relevant past in terms of witchcraft it is important to dig into it.
The culture of witches in the Basque Country is rich, mysterious, and deeply intertwined with both historical events and local folklore. The Basque region, which spans parts of northern Spain and southwestern France, has long been associated with unique traditions, language, and a history of persecution and superstition surrounding witches.
In the Basque Country, the witchcraft tradition has roots in pre-Christian beliefs, where the natural world, including the mountains, forests, and animals, held great spiritual significance. Many of these early traditions involved reverence for nature and the natural forces, much like other European pagan practices. Over time, however, this spiritual connection with nature would become associated with witchcraft, which was later demonized by the Christian Church.
The Witch Hunts (16th-17th centuries)
During the 16th and 17th centuries, the Basque Country was a hotbed of witchcraft accusations. This was a period of intense witch hunts across Europe, spurred by the growing influence of the Inquisition and religious fervor. Basque witches were accused of practicing sorcery, often involving rituals in isolated rural areas and forests.
The Zugarramurdi Witch Trials were one of the most infamous events in Basque witchcraft history. In 1610, the Inquisition conducted a large-scale witch trial in Zugarramurdi, resulting in the execution of 40 women and the torture of hundreds.
Cultural Role of Witches in Basque Folklore
In Basque folklore, witches were believed to possess powerful abilities, such as the power to curse or heal, to control the weather, and to communicate with spirits. The Basques have their own unique mythology surrounding witches. Witches were often portrayed as both feared and revered figures, associated with the mystical and supernatural elements of Basque culture.
Witchcraft in the Basque region was often linked to the idea of a Sabbath, a night-time gathering where witches would supposedly worship the devil, practice magic, and even engage in orgies. These events, whether real or the product of Inquisition propaganda, were believed to take place in remote forests and caves. The Sabbath was seen as a space where Basque witches could subvert societal norms and engage in practices that were considered taboo.
The Basque language (Euskara) has unique terms for witches and witchcraft that reflect its deep cultural roots. For example, Akelarre. This term, which is used in many languages, refers to the traditional witch’s meeting in Basque culture.
Modern Views on Witches in the Basque Country
In the present day, witchcraft in the Basque Country is viewed much differently. Although the historical witch hunts were brutal and led to the death and persecution of many, witches have been recontextualized in modern culture. Today, the notion of witches is revived as part of a cultural heritage.
References¶
1. Paula Ulargui Escalona's Collaboration with Loewe
Spanish designer Paula Ulargui Escalona collaborated with fashion house Loewe to create garments adorned with living plants. By incorporating flora into clothing, Escalona seeks to prompt a reevaluation of fashion's relationship with nature, emphasizing sustainability and environmental consciousness.
2. Helen Storey's "The Dress for Our Time"
British fashion designer Helen Storey created the Dress for Our Time, a garment made from waste materials to raise awareness of environmental issues. This work focuses on the relationship between fashion and the environment, incorporating activism into fashion design.
3. Hye Yeon Nam's "FloraWear"
Hye Yeon Nam developed 'FloraWear,' a wearable living interface that integrates plants into clothing. This project aims to create emotional ties between the wearer and their plants, promoting an understanding of the interconnectedness within ecosystems and encouraging mindfulness about one's role in the environment.
4. Kate Reed's Beyond Biomimicry
Kate Reed's "Beyond Biomimicry" is an innovative design philosophy that seeks to transcend traditional biomimicry by actively involving nature in the design process, allowing natural organisms to function as co-designers. This approach aims to foster a more sustainable and equitable future by integrating living systems directly into wearable technology.
5. Stella McCartney's "Lady Garden"
McCartney's collection seeks to reclaim traditionally stigmatized symbols associated with women, empowering women to embrace their natural forms. McCartney uses fashion as a tool for activism, addressing important social issues like women's health and equality. She incorporates environmentally friendly practices into her collections, such as using sustainable materials and ethical manufacturing methods, making "The Lady Garden" collection both a feminist and eco-friendly statement.