4. BioChromes

Research & Ideation

This week, we’re looking at how the textile industry pollutes, especially with chemical dyes. Dyeing fabrics is a big problem for the environment. Instead of using harmful chemicals, we’ll learn about natural dyes from plants, insects, and bacteria. We’ll mix traditional methods with new technology to find better, eco-friendly ways to dye fabrics. Throughout this journey, I've been inspired by several artists who explore nature and sustainable practices in their work.

Boichrome's Journey

During our journey, we had the chance to meet Mariam, a talented carpet master. She shared her inspiring story with us. Mariam has been making carpets since she was a child; she created her first carpet when she was just 13 years old.

Over the years, Mariam also tried repairing carpets but faced challenges with matching wool colors. This pushed her to experiment with combining different colored wools to create new shades. Her curiosity led her to meet Hayk, who taught her more about natural coloring methods. With his guidance, Mariam spent a lot of time experimenting, learning, and perfecting her craft.

Mariam opened our eyes to various coloring methods, sharing her knowledge with enthusiasm, and I couldn’t contain my excitement to meet someone so passionate about her craft!

Exploring Natural Dyes with Mariam

Mariam showed us a wide range of natural materials that can be used to color fabric. We learned about:

• Hypericum: A plant known for its vibrant yellow hue.
• Helichrysum: Often used for its beautiful golden colors.
• Pomegranate Shell: This offers rich shades, especially in reds and yellows.
• Thoran Root: A lesser-known dye that produces lovely earthy tones.
• Nut Shell: A surprising source for warm browns.
• Onion Skins: These provide a range of yellows to deep oranges.
• Cochineal: A natural dye made from insects, famous for its bright reds.
• Indigo: Renowned for its deep blue shades.

Each material brought its unique beauty and story, inspiring us to explore the world of natural dyes even further!

Tools

• Wool – The primary material we dyed during the process.
• Pots and Stove – For boiling water and creating the dye baths with various natural ingredients.
• Mesh Bags – To hold the dye materials (pomegranate shells, Helichrysum) during the boiling process.
• Copper Sulfate – Used as a modifier with Helichrysum to create a cold green color. Copper sulfate helps the dye stick to the fibers and changes the natural color, shifting it towards green.
• Alum (7-10%) – A natural mordant, added to the wool to help the dye bind to the fibers.
• Soda – Used in the washing process to clean and prepare the wool before dyeing.
• Stirring Spoons or Sticks – For mixing the dyes and ensuring the wool gets evenly colored in the dye bath.
• Thermometers – To monitor the temperature during the boiling process (e.g., wool washed at 70°C).
• Gloves – For handling the dye materials and preventing staining of hands.

Natural Dye Materials:

• Pomegranate Shells – Used to create a natural dye bath for an earthy tone.
• Helichrysum – Combined with other materials to produce vibrant yellows and gradients.
• Cochineal – Crushed insects used to achieve pink and purple hues.
• Indigo – For producing deep blue colors.

Process and workflow with Mariam

Mariam began sharing her knowledge about creating colorful naturally dyed wool. She explained that she had already prepared the wool by washing it in hot water with soda to clean away any oils and impurities. This initial step is crucial for ensuring that the wool can absorb the natural dyes effectively. She then mentioned that she had also soaked the wool in a solution of 7-10% alum. Alum serves as a mordant, which helps the wool bond with the natural pigments, making the colors vibrant and long-lasting. Anush emphasized the importance of these preparatory steps, as they set the stage for the beautiful transformations to come.

Dyeing with Pomegranate shells

After the preparation, we eagerly moved on to the coloring process. First, we took the pomegranate shells and placed them in a bag before adding them to boiling water. Mariam shared her experience, explaining that she always uses a gauge to monitor the dye concentration. However, this time, there were quite a lot of pomegranate shells, which made the process even more exciting! The rich pigments from the shells began to fill the water, and we could already see the potential for beautiful hues that would soon adorn the wool.

Dyeing with Helichrysum

After working with the pomegranate shells, we moved on to the next natural dye: Helichrysum. Just like before, we carefully placed the Helichrysum flowers in a bag and added them to boiling water. The flowers slowly released their rich yellow pigments into the water, creating a soft, golden hue.

Dyeing with Cochineal

Next, we experimented with Cochineal, which was perhaps the most fascinating dye we used. These insects produce carminic acid, which is extracted to create rich red and pink dyes. To start, we crushed the dried Cochineal insects into a fine powder and mixed it with water. Then, we placed this mixture into boiling water to create the dye. As soon as it hit the heat, the water transformed into a deep red, releasing the intense pigments that Cochineal is famous for.

Coloring the Wool

After preparing the dye from the pomegranate shells, we were ready to begin coloring the wool. Once the pomegranate shells had infused the boiling water with their rich pigments, we placed the wool directly into the dye bath.

Combining Helichrysum and Copper Sulfate for a Unique Green

After experimenting with the pomegranate shells, we decided to try something new. We combined Helichrysum with copper sulfate to see what color we could create. Once we added the copper sulfate to the Helichrysum dye bath, the water transformed into a cool, soft green—a striking contrast to the golden hues we had before.

Using pomegranate shells,and the combination of Helichrysum and copper sulfate—we ended up with a stunning range of colors.

Combining Helichrysum and Cochineal

We achieved a vibrant wine color using Cochineal, which gave the wool an intense, striking hue. But we didn’t stop there. We wanted to experiment further by creating a gradient effect using both Helichrysum and Cochineal.

By carefully blending the yellow from Helichrysum with the wine color from Cochineal, we created a beautiful transition from warm yellow to deep wine color on the wool. The gradient was mesmerizing, showcasing the harmony of these natural colors.

Indigo and mixing colors

we also experimented with Indigo. Indigo – Indigo is a natural dye made from the leaves of the indigo plant, which produces a beautiful deep blue color. To use indigo as a dye, it first needs to be dissolved in a special solution. When wool or fabric is dipped in, it turns green at first but changes to blue as it reacts with the air. The contrast of this color with the others was striking and added another layer to our color exploration. We took it a step further by mixing the colors together, creating beautiful gradients. We crafted smooth transitions between colors, producing a range of stunning shades. Each experiment brought a new level of excitement as the colors blended in unique and unexpected ways.

Ingredients & Recipes

Pomegranate Shell Dye

1. Prepare 12 liters of boiling water.
2. Add 300g of pomegranate shells (in a bag).
3. Simmer the shells for 15-30 minutes.
4. Add 100g of wool and simmer for 30-60 minutes.
5. Rinse and dry the wool.

Helichrysum Dye

1. Boil 12 liters of water.
2. Add 200g of Helichrysum flowers (in a bag).
3. Simmer for 15-30 minutes.
4. Add 100g of wool and simmer for 30-60 minutes.
5. Rinse and dry the wool.

Cochineal Dye

1. Crush 25g of cochineal insects.
2. Mix with 12 liters of water and bring to a boil.
3. Simmer for 15-30 minutes.
4. Add 100g of wool and simmer for 30-60 minutes.
5. Rinse and dry the wool.

Helichrysum & Copper Sulfate

1. Prepare 12 liters of water with 200g of Helichrysum.
2. Add 2g of copper sulfate.
3. Simmer for 15-30 minutes.
4. Add 100g of wool and simmer for 30-60 minutes.
5. Rinse and dry the wool.

We couldn’t simmer for 30-60 minutes due to time constraints, but despite this, we still achieved bright, beautiful colors on the wool.

Experimenting with Linen

Besides working with wool, we also experimented with linen. Linen is a plant-based fabric made from flax fibers, which makes it more absorbent but also more resistant to dyes compared to animal fabrics. When dyeing linen, it's important to prepare the fabric by boiling it with alum and soda to open up the fibers and help the dye penetrate. However, plant fibers like linen usually require more time for the dye to fully absorb and bond with the material, which can result in softer, more muted colors. Before coming to Woolway, we prepared the linen fabric by boiling it with alum and soda. However, we later realized that the timing wasn’t quite enough, which resulted in colors that weren’t as vibrant as we initially expected. Despite this, the process was incredibly interesting, and we were still excited by the unique results we achieved.

Experimenting with leather

We also ventured into experimenting with leather, which turned out to be unexpectedly beautiful. Leather, being an animal-based fabric, reacts differently to natural dyes. Animal fibers tend to absorb dyes more readily, which can result in richer, more intense colors. The natural dyeing process on leather yielded stunning results, showcasing vibrant colors and unique textures.

Recycling the dye into pigments

We decided to create pigment color with cochineal. For this, we took an Erlenmeyer flask and filled it with 400 ml of water.

Next, we mixed alum and soda together in the flask, and we immediately noticed the reaction begin. The mixture started to bubble and change, signaling that the chemical process was underway.

We also checked the degree of acidity (pH) to ensure the solution was balanced for proper pigment extraction. Maintaining the right pH level is crucial, as it affects the color outcome and stability of the pigment. Once we were satisfied with the acidity, we prepared a filter and funnel to separate the pigment from the mixture.

We left the mixture to sit for the day, allowing the reaction to fully develop. When we returned the next day, we saw the pigment had formed. It was a really exciting moment, witnessing the color emerge from the process!

The next day, we followed the same process with indigo, excited to see how this iconic natural dye would turn out. We mixed the ingredients carefully, checked the acidity, and left the solution to sit. It was amazing to witness how each dye had its own unique reaction and vibrant result, reinforcing our excitement about the beauty and variety of natural dyes.

After getting the pigment, I decided to experiment with it further. I took some watercolor paper and applied the pigment to see how it would work as a watercolor.

Conclusion

Throughout this journey, we explored the fascinating world of natural dyes, experimenting with materials like cochineal, pomegranate shells, Helichrysum, and indigo. Each step, from preparing the wool and fabric to carefully monitoring acidity and dye reactions, deepened our understanding of traditional dyeing techniques. We learned not only the science behind the process but also experienced the beauty and unpredictability of working with nature.

The vibrant colors and unique gradients that emerged were the results of patience, experimentation, and respect for the materials. Whether it was the rich blue of indigo or the soft pinks of cochineal, each pigment told a story of its own. This journey allowed us to reconnect with ancient methods and bring them into modern practice, reminding us of the endless possibilities that nature provides.